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For a learning experience and to make custom for your own needs

As deep as it would go!

Yeah, the warping was my fault from too big of a foam pour. If I were to do it again I think I'd probably do a stringer grid out of 3" PolyIso foam (same material as GoBoard but wider). I would pour foam, sand/ level and fill, and then glue deck panels. Voids are inevitable in any top down pour.

Thanks for the reply. Great idea! Can’t wait for episode 3!

@@capttomhartydid you use polyester resin or epoxy resin with this build?

@@thomasbarbjr.5934 All poly

If you look at my first video on this project you can see the original wiring. It comes up through the foam at the bow, but does go bad over time. Its common to run a wire under the rub rail if the factory wire is compromised.

Lots of variables of course, but looking to do this for around $2k in materials. As for flipping, without the foam it only took 2 of us to lift.

@@capttomhartythanks for the information I really appreciate your videos

I would agree with you on other boats but not on these Whalers. Much better (not to mention easier) to keep the structure of the splashwell in place and go from the outside.

@@capttomharty I did not realize they did not have actual stringers in them. I am currently about to start on a 16' 1966 MFG looks similar to the Whaler. I will start removing the cap off today and cutting out the transom. I will document the build on Iboats as I did with my other build on a 1979 Grady WA

Yeah it was good to get back to it, definitely had to rush but all good. I think the GoBoard is awesome. Thought long and hard about Plywood vs. Divinycell at $140/ sheet, less so about Coosa at $330/sheet. I had a scrap piece of 1 1/2" Coosa for the transom so it felt wrong to go plywood. I've done a few stringers out of 4" PolyIso roof board so had no worries about using this. The 1/2" wouldn't work for a traditional deck, but with a solid foam filled hull there is plenty of support. The top will get 1708 so it'll have dent resistance too when we throw a mooring on there.

@@capttomharty Sounds good, what are your future plans for the boat? I watched the whole video in one sitting lol. Love this stuff. Keep the videos and narration coming!

@@spinfish1434 This will be a beater on Nantucket for the whole family to use. Fishing, clams, beach, waterskiing, and probably a bit of light duty work.

For the record refoaming should be the last resort! All Whalers have water in the foam and most do just fine. I’m certainly not going to say this was necessary or everyone should cut open their Whalers.

Absolutely agree with your statement, hence actually weighing them to see just how bad they are. Keep up the good work, we are looking forward to see some more video!

I should have let the deck bond a bit longer and harden up, or even glass it down but jumped the gun. Watching the deck rise in the time lapse was brutal!

I'm a fan of grinding the crazed gelcoat down especially on the old old ones, but to each their own. I think the cracks will always come back if not taken down to fiberglass. On this one I'll redo the entire bottom the same way - 36grit, 1 layer CSM, fair, epoxy prime.

No sir! Just booked a flight back to work on it at the end of the month. Getting the heaters ready!

@@capttomharty Looking forward to seeing it take shape! 👍

Not yet, unfortunately going to be a while til I can get back around to it.

Haha, the multitool is literally sitting in the boat... its garbage for foam.

@@capttomharty I took the foam out of a 1961 Larsen in a couple hours sliced it into potato salad and scooped it out. I tried the grunt way you did and I’m too old for that. I got pictures for proof. That was my experience. I found the tool to finally be useful for something besides noise.

If this hull wasn't so bad a few dozen hole saw holes would be my approach; refoam and then glass over.

@@capttomharty thanks. I remove the bottom fiberglass, and waiting for 2 weeks for drying

@@capttomharty what do you mean refoam? if you only had hole saw holes to let exiting foam dry then what would you be refoaming? just trying to learn for when I take this project on. thanks.

@@sean7193 I'd use a 4" hole saw pulling out "core samples" so to speak. Wet core gets replaced with new foam, dry core allowed to stay- avoids pulling the deck.

I'll be adding 1-2 layers of 1708 on the inside and then pouring new foam up to the deck, should be plenty.

@@capttomharty I had the same plan. I was planning on 2lb foam a little higher than deck level, shaping into correct shape of floor and glassing in with 2 layers of 1708 and wrapping it up the gunnels a little. Looking forward to episode 2.

Grab it! You can build one out for less than you can buy one complete. Use polyester resin, sweat equity goes a long way, used motor, eBay for rigging, etc.

Yes, definitely aggressive/ makes rough gouges... but is a time saver in the end. On a boat this far gone the alternative with 60/ 80 on a DA would take weeks! Also, I'm going to lay fresh glass on top so smoothness isn't important yet.

I would love to try that, unfortunately my grinder skills are a blessing and a curse!

Hopefully soon!

The grinding goes pretty quickly! I use a 4.5" grinder with a 36g disc so much faster and messier than a DA with say 80 grit. Probably 6 hours inside and out, but still have the bottom to do.

@@capttomharty thanks for the reply. Thats actually much quicker than I would have imagined. Now that you have it down to glass are you planning on fairing and paint or you gonna re gel coat? I'm about to get to sanding on a 16 currituck. Purchased a new 70 yamaha and now have rethought putting the motor on my hull the way it is. Definitely makes me wanna go further but I keep reminding myself a line has to be drawn somewhere. Thanks again 🤙

@@Frumundaair She'll get another layer of glass, polyfair, and then primed/ painted with Awlgrip.

@@capttomharty This is the best video on a practical way to restore these old whalers. Hopefully you'll have time to educate us on completing this project. Question on the bottom when you get to it. I'll assume the same grind the gelcoat off. Will you lay fiberglass mat over (for strength) or just re-gelcoat? I have and old 11 foot whaler same condition. The bottom on mine is thin and too flexible many spider cracks.

@@kodiham7532 Thanks! Yes, the bottom will be ground down too. It'll be a mess-- undoubtedly burn through in spots and uncover all sorts of cracks, prior patches and wet foam but is a necessary can of worms. Some spots will need to be dug out and re-foamed. After that a fresh layer or 2 of mat is definitely needed to uniformly reseal repairs, reinforce the thin factory skin and start the process of fairing.

I wish I could say soon, but haven't gotten a chance to get back to it yet!

@@capttomharty I am waiting part 2 too :)

Yes, this is definitely a deep dive! The internal plywood was completely rotten and if I do end up with a mahogany console the screws would not have held.

There are 3 strips of plywood here- one down the center and then each side for the console/ leaning post to mount to. These were completely rotten, which is why I went in from the top. The thin glass layup will be fixed with 1708 and then fresh foam and new divinycell deck.

I’m in California, boat is in Boston. Might be a minute until I can get back to it but lots to do!

@@capttomharty subscribed

What type disc did you use on the grinder

@@BahamasCaneCorso 24 or 36g resin discs from ebay or amazon. 25 pack is like $30

Appreciate the info!

We actually blew a seal on the Zeus pod and had to get hauled out at River Forest for about 10 days while they fixed it. Made it up to NYC eventually but didn't film much!

@@capttomharty Thank you. I wondered if that or something else had happened. Those damn Zeus pods. Great video; I wish I could have seen the rest of the trip. Thanks for the reply