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I bought the Ocelot Aurora 30x10x14 (which are a "clone" of the Tusk Terrabites). I have been very impressed with the tires. I've put 1000 miles on them with zero complaints.

@@joshwilliams9122 Nice thank you for the info

Alot of owners tend to lean towards the 1.5" rear spacers but I went with 1" on mine... I run 14x8 with a 4/4 square offset (so right in the middle) and am very happy. Some people ask "why don't you buy different offset wheels for front vs back" and for me the reason is I like to be able to rotate my tires and only need 1 spare tire/wheel that'll work on all 4 corners.

@@joshwilliams9122 - thank you for confirming. I have 30x10x14 tires with MSA wheels. I think the wheels have a 1.5 inch outset over stock. My front wheels sick out just barley past the boy line, and the rears sit just about in inch inside the edge of the body. In your opinion is the suspension worth the amount of money it costs? When I Priced it, I want to say it was some think like 1400ish for stage one.

You know in hindsight I totally forgot to video or comment about that after I put them on. So as shown on the video the stock setup with the 30x10x14 tires I had 14". After I installed the Elkas I had EXACLTLY the same ground clearance. Which for the setup I asked for when I ordered was one that would be tailored for combination of road and reasonable trails -- nothing extreme. For me that is perfect mostly because where it sits right now it just skims my 7' garage door height and if it was any higher I'd have to figure something out to get in in the garage.

Left it in the parts bin! Don't miss it at all running the Hester Elkas! (and I do way more street riding / street speeds where a sway bar is usually more appreciated) The behavior is interesting though, it isn't that it doesn't "sway" on turns, etc. its that when it does sway you "feel" like there is a lot more weight on the side lifting and keeping the machine "planted" rather than "tipping". I believe this is due to how much more down travel the suspension has now. Highly recommended.

Please do share and thanks for commenting! I'm not much of a "CZcamsr" but I enjoy sharing positive information about a great product - hoping to help others see the benefits!

I ordered from Curren RV - CFMoto Parts. 5HYV-161000-1G01 - Flasher Module for the 2023 models (not 2019-2022) 5ASV-169070-6001 - HAZARD SWITCH, CFMoto OEM 6060-150600 - ELECTRIC HORN, CFMoto OEM 5ASV-169060-6001 - TURN SWITCH, CFMoto OEM 5ASV-169040-6001 - HORN SWITCH, CFMoto OEM 5HYV-150191-2900 - ADAPTOR CABLE, HORN - CFMOTO OEM If you already have the lights you want to use then these components should be everything else you'd need for the street legal equipment.

What I am hoping for eventually would be to install the Elka Hester Edition Shocks on it. They claim it'll give a bit more lift without the need for the lift kit... But they are a little pricey so may wait a bit before spending the $$$ on them.

On my UForce there was an unused power plug right where I mounted the bracket. It is "always" on with the ignition but was the easiest, simplest solution. Wish it was only on with the main lights on but it works great as is. I tried to see the wires but I put heat shrink on everything and can't see the wire colors anymore... (sorry) But if your is similar it was the only 2 wire, unused plug available under the tailgate. Tested with a voltage meter before using to confirm.

I used this one BUT I had to cut off part of it due to it hitting the exhaust when you tilted the bed up. I just used a Sawzall with a metal blade to remove the part that was hitting. If you email me at josh_will@yahoo.com I can send you a more detailed pic of how I mounted it if you'd like. www.amazon.com/dp/B0C58XL9PL?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

So I can't take any credit for the blinker / lights that were used. I watched @chrisgray1539 channel and ordered exactly what he used. But to answer your question, yep the front signals are bigger than the front lights used... FYI on Amazon the rear signals come in two sizes, I think it was 4.4 and 3.4 inches if you like this setup buy the 3.4 for the tailgate lights. www.amazon.com/dp/B09289FX68?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 www.amazon.com/dp/B0BGP287GW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Thank you so much. I got the lights ordered. I enjoyed your video.

@@joshwilliams9122How did you get the lights to fit on the front in that spot ? Did you have to cut anything .

So I trimmed the "tabs" off the lights, then took the clear lens off (setting the LED and back housing aside) and drilled small holes on each end inside the lens, then marked them on the body under the headlight and drilled matching holes, then used small bolts, lock washer and nut to hold in place then reattached the LED and backing plate. Tried to make it clean and secure -- thus far it has worked great and looks pretty darn good -- much better than the button lights some are using in my opinion. Feel free to email me if you'd like to send close up pics of the lights. josh_will@yahoo.com @@ariesnc6320

​@joshwilliams9122 that's exactly how I done mine. Great job at seeing that. I probably should have been a little bit more descriptive in my video. LOL

Think you are referring to the windshield, if so yes the plug that came with the kit didn’t match up to any available plug under the dash. I ended up tapping into the 12v / cigarette lighter plug power. Works fine, plenty of available amps and is also “switched” which is what you want since the open/close switch is backlit.