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My bow came with an elevated rest. First shot the fletching took the little plastic piece right off. What did I do wrong?

One word, camera close up

My bow is 60lb how can I make it lighter ? Should change all of it just limps ?

I've never used carbon arrows before but I've heard stories of carbon splintering and injuring the Bowman hand but ever hear that with aluminum.

15 year old video and today in 2024 still not a better system for sharpening two blade heads like vintage Nears and Zwickeys. Been using my Tru-Angle files at least twenty years

Attach a molle water bottle pouch to the outside.

You twisted the fur silencer opposite to the direction of the twist in the string. You should match the twist so that as you twist the string, the fur puff gets tighter and forms a cleaner ball. Same applies to my favourite, the ew bateman campuff

Is it possible to install the rug rest in such a way that you can leave open the option of screwing on an elevated rest at a later point, or do the two interfere with one another? I'm new to shooting so I'm not quite sure what I prefer at this point, and I noticed you're partially covering the mounting point for the elevated rest with the side plate.

Thank you! I loved the clear and concise presentation. As a beginner, I didn't know what people meant by "pounds". I didn't know if it referred to the weight of the bow itself or the force of draw put on the string.

I am curious about the depth of my bow. How do I know if my bowstring should be wound tighter or loosened? Because I always figured the more shallow your bow is the less tension and therefore the less power. But, I also realize that on the other hand if your bow was more shallow you would have a longer draw and therefore the string would have more travel to put energy into the arrow. Im sure it is a balancing act just as the size of the bow itself is, but I simply do not have the expertise. Any thoughts?

im curious about the padded strips that go on the bow tips under the string. Are those useful or necessary? Do they do the same thing as the styles Shown here? TIA

I am new to everything about Archery but I can't see what your doing and I don't really know what your Talking about...if you could show more it would help us new People alot

These 3River videos are excellent.

Im just going to to get 35 pound and if its not good ill just return it and get a different one

On Archery Talk people have said you can straighten aluminum core arrows.I am wondering though if warming the carbon up a tad would help too.Not heat so much as just warm the carbon so it does not damage the structure.

I'm a gun guy but interested in bows I'm 70 and 5'8" 165 pounds any suggestions would be appreciated hanks for the video take care

This is a slippery slope,basically because of the process that is always being proposed,starting light and working your way up. Sound but not practical,first it gets expensive limbs for a takedown are not cheap,age is another thing,male/ female is another your activity level is another. IMO the problem is the shooter is not using proper form when drawing the bow , you would be shocked on how much you can pull back with the proper technique. The average male between 25 and 40 years of age should be able to pull back a 50# bow with relative ease if at first they learned basic techniques. Bow length is another problem, to many people who move up in weight using a shorter bow experience finger pinch which makes it feel like it’s too much weight .

I can't help but call it "Karen" mine is being delivered today lol

How well is this likely to work with heavy brass inserts?

Stove and coffee

I’m confused. You said with split finger you go 1/8 higher. But 5/8 plus 1/8 is 6/8. You said it would be half inch?

I just shot my bow for the first time and its consistently high and right. It didnt come with a string, so i ordered a cheap endless loop one off amazon and i noticed that the center serving is way high of center. Might be good for an arrow rest, but completely off center for off the shelf shooting. Is that whats making me shoot high-right? In my mind the 2 inches of extra serving up high is making the lower limb faster than the upper and driving my arrows up.

3rivers great supplier.

What glue you use for it?

Thanks for sharing

45# 27 inch draw shoot 100 tip what spine should i shoot

Hello, new to your channel very helpful so far, I’m into my first week of archery. I went with the Sanlida Eagle X9 35# 58” What do you recommend for just target shooting? So many options out there. Also any arrow recommendations? I’m using the supplied 30” carbon arrows, I would like to eventually get the new string and arrows together. Thanks.

do another showing a better profile (thickness) of the Haversack as well as the open main compartment

Once the nock is on, you have to keep track what is the bottom of the string right? Because if you take the string of and put it back on the wrong way the nock is in a diffrerent place?

How is adding 1/8 to 5/8 make it half an inch?!!

Good to see someone with some common sense recommending starting with a lightweight bow instead of some macho idiot recommending a 65 pound bow for a beginner.

I'm 19 and I'm looking for a bow my bonus dad could buy for my birthday. can do 8 pullups in one set, 25 pushups in one set and curl 10kg 10 reps in one set. I have been bow shooting in my backyard for half a year and the draw weight is 6kg based on my arm strength. what do you think is the decent draw weight for me?

I have a range of bow weights from 40-84 lbs the 84lb is a takedown from Silvertip by the late Paul Schaefer .

The little spinner is junk. I tried off and on for years to make that thing work right. I'm serving right along, suddenly I notice it is getting closer to the direction it came from, overlapping the already served string. I have wasted too much time and serving because of that thing. It's built very well, but I have zero clue how it can start going backwards right in the middle of serving. After about 7 or 8 years, I decided to try it again. Same thing. That's too bad too. Because when it does work right, it works the best. I'm just tired of having to constantly goof with it. Mine will ultimately go into the trash, unless you have some idea that I didn't think of.

Tillering question. Why is it when I'm tillering my wood bows the limbs bend just fine but as soon as I put an actual bow string on the bow the limbs bend funny and end up breaking? Frustrated bowyer!!!

What's the difference between a longbow string and recurve string?

definitely got to work on camera angles and close ups

Thanks for testing arrow speed properly... Stating draw weight at 28", stating arrow weight, drawing the bow to 28" and using a shoot machine... So many people screw up this simple task...

great vids! but definitely need better close up shots

I've seen some tests where foam core limbs did close to 20 fps better than equivalent wood core limbs. It seems that here you only got a performance advantage with the light arrow. Is that to be expected generally?

Are there any archery trade shows this year?

How the Oberon recurve for smoothness shooting and would it be better hunting then the long bow

Thank you. Draw hand is the bow you need.

can you please link the BOW here?

Is there any suggested oreientation to set your nock opening such as 12 o clock or 3 o clock?

Klo mau beli hubungi kmna mas?

Those look great on those beautiful autumn oranges

thankyou

At last some one who makes sense.can you tell me what spine I need for a 66 inch 30lb at 28 inch draw.many thanks Tony

Although I'm a longtime 3Rivers customer, I'm embarrassed to say that I didn't realize you've been doing these excellent reviews on CZcams. They put Lancaster's offerings to shame! The performance testing was particularly valuable. I have been very interested in the Bearpaw Creed, so this vdeo was truly helpful. The one small element that was missing (in my opinion) was tight closeups of the wood in the riser, and the reinforcement at the limb tips. Maybe next time?