Video

Fuzzy skin has been a feature in Cura and PrusaSlicer, for at least 2 years (Cura even longer than that) ! If you really have done a research how could you have missed it?!

I personally don’t understand why people go through such lengths to hide the fact that a thing was 3D printed. As of writing this comment, 3D printing is still a novelty. It is reaching the point quickly where most people can just buy one, but it is still a new and cool concept. I feel that for many people, owning something that was 3D printed would be a cool novelty. Not only do you have an alarm clock, but you have something that someone created with a little machine in their house. I understand that in some applications it is good to hide the fact that something was printed, mostly with cosmetic parts like cosplay props or things you want to have look like they were professionally made, but for me it doesn’t make much sense to go about trying to hide the fact that a thing you’re selling out of your house is 3D printed.

It was a great video and very informational. Helped me with everything I need to do to print TPU on the A1 -thank you.

Do you Iron the upper surfice?

Any CF filaments will also help the lines blend in my experience

Great video, it was really helpful. Thanks for sharing!

Save you 10 minutes: use fuzz skin

Im new to 3d printing so this was very informative, despite not getting to the point its a lot more layman/noob friendly

you really should give Resin Printing another try. you said something about your parts being brittle ? its probably because of Over Cooking it in the UV, or Under Curing during mfg. with Halot Mage - most of the resins ive played with have a cure time of 2-5 seconds per layer - so if youre doing anything at 1.2, its not enough and will rip apart. and take the supports Off BEFORE you UV Cure the parts. not after. you can use Warm Water to soften the supports and it REALLY HELPS them pop right off. especially if you have TONS of supports. just let it soak for 30sec, then pull some off, and repeat. dont let it soak for 2min or you will hurt the model. and not 180°F water either.

7 minutes of intro...

MJF printed parts are pretty dang affordable.. Alternatively, filaments like Protopasta Empire strikes black PETG hide layer lines really well (similar to Carbon fiber filaments without the damage to the nozzle)

It feels stronger. Another weak zoomer kid that feels things that ought to be scientifically proven.

Bored to tears by the brief or to the point time use

Summary: nothing new there, but your video is useful because the tests your made with the fuzzy skin.

thank you!!

Your dedication to your craft is evident.

gracias por compartir no tenia idea que existiera n i de como usarlo exito y salud

This should have just been a youtube short. Meh.

So. You didn't solve the problem.

In what way ABS + acetone didn't work for you?

No has pensado en colocar tu canal con audio en español? La comunidad de habla hispana que usa bambulab es muy grande y hay pocas personas que expliquen los vídeos como tu.

Have you tried making Silicone molds? Casting each piece would take less than 15 minutes using 2 part resin that you can pour and cure and you can dye the resin in any color. There are also minimal post processing.

Wait until he hears about marble pla or 0.2mm nozzles. Plus those prices for aluminium tooling was nuts. Half the price and could get steel for that. Thats the trade off. Rolling price for unit pricing making the clock $30 not $200

I felt this video in my soul after having gone through the exact process you did. I have had a product injection molded before but it cost over 100k and the end result wasn’t even much stronger than an fdm part. Currently selling my anycubic m3 max because of the brittleness

I am getting an A1 when I get back from vacation since I just finished my printer cabinet modification to accommodate it. You mention that fuzzy skin disrupts the tolerances. My question is: can you set fuzzy skin to a negative value, so instead of protrusion it performs the inverse for the fuzz? I feel the answer is likely no, but if anyone has insight if negative values are usable, I would greatly appreciate it.

I was just wondering what that fuzz was about in the settings and honestly was wondering why would anyone want any fuzz. Thanks for the depth in this video. I personally would have preferred the original 3D print on this product. Well, also I'd smash that glass of water before drinking it... yeah, I am angry in the mornings.

When Ra 0.3 looks better than √

Love it the first time I saw what the textured plate did to the bottom, I thought I'd like it if it all look like that.

Nice video! Good to see the entire process and what goes in to making a product! I looked through the entire comment section but couldn't find an answer to my question. Maybe it's in there and I just missed it. 😅 I was really wondering what kind of fillament you are using for your final product? I just bought my own printer, a BambuLab P1S and I'm looking for tips and tricks for using it and what material to use for what purpose. Thanks in advance!😁

Heating acetone? Why? It evaporates at room temperature.

Gold information!😊

Very interesting, for me it already fails at the extruder gear and that with 95a ESun 🙈

interesting ill keep it in mind if I go to design anything for mass production, your fail didn't just make u successful but thou who come after you with their projects

This guy loves to talk.

How would you compensate for the fuzz on your splicer? using a .3mm thickness and .3mm point distance. would you increase the scale, or axis effected by .6mm? I have something I am printing that clamps over something, but I forgot about the tolerance change due to the fuzz. Obviously it will not clamp over and stay connected. Any advice will be welcome :) Thank you

Thank you for 1) this video and 2) your tenacity. I'll quote you: "Fail your way to success." Outstanding advice.👍

here's another idea: you can use the enclosure to form a negative in sand and then fill it with plastic also I want to use a hot press to give my prints a popcorn finish also check out the ironing feature- or do it yourself

5:10 bro discovered the fuzzy skin option on his slicer. There, 10 mins saved

Sprühen ohne Maske - Top 😂

thanks for the video this really helped me out a lot. im printing everything with fuzz now. it looks so much better than layer lines

Saludos desde Colombia! 🇨🇴 🎉

Another benefit of running into problems and solving them is that the lessons learned make the next projects easier, and after a while it becomes second nature to minimize the possibility of loose ends in the code and hardware. When something is as good as it needs to be, it's close enough to perfection, and it's time to release the creation from the never ending quest for perfection. Should you ever condemn yourself to jump in the ice cold water again, a simple trick which will make the experience more BEARable is to cover yourself with cow grease (the non-toxic kind used to milk cows). Not only does it provide insulation, it also keeps you "dry" so when you come out of the water you won't feel as cold. Caveat: You then have to get that stuff off of your skin.

The resin prints would have worked if you better resin, an engineering resin such as lamg he art engineering resin doesn't warp and is not brittle

lobster

May i ask, how did you get the fuzzy skin on the bottom layer that was in contact with the bed?

Dang option 2 is way better!

Does fuzzy skin option available in Cura or creality?

Z-Hop is yuor Friend😅

If yuo want to print finish products with Resin , first Learn to Print in Resin , there is a learning curve , there are a lot of resins and parameters to know, second if yuo think yuo gone do this like the bombu in a Resin orinter like Creality or other , its not gone happend, but there are systems l like Formlabs , full ecosystem(and its expensive) , one click and yuo have yuor model , perfect in their own propietary cartrige Resins😊

I loved this video!! Thank you for sharing! It helped me out a lot 😊