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Hey, thanks for the feedback, the audio could use some balancing. This was an earlier video and we've adjusted the sound balance in more recent ones, so hopefully they're sounding better! 👍 Thanks again for taking a moment to suggest improvements

In general it likely will. Usually, the more conditioning, or applications of a conditioner, will lead to more moisture and a slightly darker color each time. Depending on the formula it might be slight, and it usually dries lighter than it looks when initially applied.

Hello 😃 Are you referring to the alcohol inks used for art (tiles, specialized paper, etc.)? Or natural dyes?

@@internationalleatherclub no, the products are leather specific and come in various shades for painting vegetan.

@@JonRobinsonArt Hi, I've used several types of dyes, where in general dyes penetrate into the leather fibers, whereas paints usually sit on the surface, changing the color by adding a layer of pigment on top. Let me know what you might has seen or been thinking and I'll help as best I can!

@internationalleatherclub 16 Colors 100ml Vegetable Leather Alcohol dye Leather Coloring Pigment Tanned Leather Manual Dyestuff Amazon find, Generic though. I've seen professional grade, maybe Japanese and I can't remember the name.

@@JonRobinsonArt Ahh I see it I checked it out on Amazon, thanks for the name. I haven't tried that one. Knowing the ingredients/formula is often key. Popular manufacturers can generally be a little more reliable since we know more about the formulas and results, though there are all sorts of smaller/niche manufacturers that can make amazing things. I'll keep my ears open if I come across anything similar, always up to learn more about the options out there. Thanks

Hello 😃, that sounds like a fun project. I haven't really considered leather conditioners that are safe for consumption, though happy to brainstorm some if it might help with further exploration. 100% neatsfoot oil I believe is generally natural (derived from bovine elements), though I'm not sure if the production process, packaging, handling, etc is tuned for consumption. There are natural oils, like olive oil, that are sometimes used as leather conditioners. Gnerally, they're not the greatest for long-term care fo the fibers (years, decades, etc.), though if it's for an item that is intended to be kept forever, then the utility of that oil might help make it usable in a case like this. Food grade olive oil might work, though not sure if/how it might degrade over time, from a consumption standpoint. Interesting project! I hope this helps with some thoughts and inspire some further exploration, research, and testing. If anyone else has experience here, please let us know! I'd be curious to learn more about others' experiences.

Thank you very much for the information! I greatly appreciate it! I will let you know how it turns out.

@@jfrancisut Sounds great, and like a fun one!

Definitely agree! 😃

Hello, it can usually be ok if the bristles are soft. It might be worth testing on a small area to see if it leaves tiny/light scratches or not, or even gently on the back of the hand to see if it is gentle enough.

@@internationalleatherclub Thanks a bunch for your response : ).

@@Colby2Cheese Anytime!

@@internationalleatherclub I recently used the Kiwi Saddle soap on my leather wallet. However, I think I was too aggressive with it and did 2 cycles of saddle soap on the wallet. The leather wallet now is a little dry, How or what can I use to add moisture back into the leather without color change?

@@Colby2Cheese Using a light, natural conditioner like a Leather Honey might be worth trying. In general, any conditioning will likely darken leather a slight amount (some conditioners slightly, some more noticeably). When thinking about most anything drying up (clothes, foods, trees, many thing etc.) when they dry they usually get lighter in color. And when moisture is added, they usually darken a bit. So for leather it's usually about finding a conditioner that gives good benefit with the least color change.

Hello 😃 I've heard of the El Oso pumpkin soap, though haven't used it yet. Many saddle soaps include a blend of ingredients some of which can be helpful and others less so. So I often read the ingredient list and the decide if the ingredients are something I'm comfortable adding to the leather long-term. Kangaroo is a very durable and strong leather. Cleaning with a gentle cleanser made from natural ingredients can be great, then following up with a natural conditioner like a Leather Honey can be good options. If they're going to be used just for a few years and worn hard, then many popular cleaners/conditioners can give good results, water resistance, stain resistance, etc. Most any leather will benefit from separate cleaning and conditioning with natural products, though for performance items, it becomes a much more personal choice of ease of use and performance results. If you have questions on any specific cleaners, just let us know. Good luck with the project!

You're very welcome! 😃

You're very welcome 😃 Thanks for letting us know!

Hello, in general yes, if you're looking to remove most of any previous finish across the entire surface that can work (since it might alter the color so doing the entire surface can help make it appear more even in tone once conditioned). If you're just looking to prep the area for writing, depending on the writing medium (paint, gold leaf, etc.) it might be ok just to apply on the current surface, then sealing it with finisher (if it's already conditioned). This could help prevent cracking of the writing if it's first applied to a dry surface, that later flexs differently when conditioned. I'll usually try a quick test on scrap, while you're suggested approach can work really well for most things. Wishing you well with the project!

You're very welcome 😃 glad they are helpful. It can be exciting to make a custom dye, in terms of ingredients, there are a range of factors from potency, availability, safety, and desired end result, and more. A great place to begin can be to look at the manufacturer material safety data sheets, as they provide broad breakdowns of ingredients and components used in popular dyes. From there, it's really determing the result that you'd like, and then developing and testing the right balance for what you're looking for. We'd be curious if you pursue it, please share more! Maybe yours will be the next new dye on the market.

Something called a "leather filler" can work well. It can fill in the material lost from the deep scratches, and also dry flexible. Some color match existing leather, and others can be painted to match.

@@internationalleatherclub thank you

I'll have to learn more about that one, many oils can have conditioning effects and protective aspects with the wax. Thanks for mentioning it!

It's incredible to think of the impacts from in-monent decisions, and what leadership can truly mean in those contexts. For example when is it ok to change the implementation of orders when the present context clearly can benefit from it? And is it ignoring orders or more using the latest field info to refine them? Dan Sickles advancing into the Peach Orchard could be clear ignoring orders that led to negative results. Warren and Vincent covering Little Round Top might have saved the day, possibly the battle (and depending how much value one places on the strategic importantce of the battle, maybe even war). Fascinating to think about! 😃

It was great that he was later exonerated, when President Hayes ordered a court of inquiry, and even Chamberlain spoke very highly in support of him. It seems his intuition and ability to read the context of a situation were a special trait for his leadership (Gettysburg, Mine Run Campaign). And exciting that soon after the war he was elected as a member of the very prestigious American Philosophical Society. In the past its members included George Washington, John Adams, Thomas Jefferson, Thomas Paine, James Madison, Alexander Hamilton, and John Marshall. It was founded by Ben Franklin. He was in good company.

Hey! 😃 You're welcome, glad it's helpful info to watch. For those products, it mainly comes down to preference on finished look and performance characteristics. Roughly, I believe it is: Bag Kote - water based, soft, satin finish Resolene - gloss acrylic Tan-Kote - Resin based satin finish Super-Shene - Water based water repellent gloss finish What type of project are you planning to use it for?

@@internationalleatherclub Sorry about the late response! Ohh! I prefer satin/matte finishes but does that diminish the protection overall? I don't mind sacrificing the appearance for it if that's the case, but I plan to use these projects while out and about! I work with treats, painting, animal-grooming care--all separate, aha! 😊 Though I planned to also make a few organisers based on hobbies, so some might be bent, is there anything to help with that as well?

@@pimpompim No worries! 😃 For out and about something with water resistance might have benefit, and in general the finish appearance (shiny, matter, etc.) should have little impact on performance. Key will be the components used in the formula and their performance characterists for the intended use you've got. They should cover most leathers well, even those with bends and molded shapes. Sounds like a fun project!

Ooo, thank goodness, all the more to play around and test--Thank you kindly!

@@pimpompim It can be fun, enjoy!

We'll have to try more out with that brand. Do you find it has any unique pros/cons? Airbrushing sounds like an excellent technique to develop, too.

Hello 😃 That is a great question, as dye rubbing off can be quite challenging. In general, wax can work though it can take time to apply evenly (especially on larger pieces), and will often need to be periodically reapplied over time in areas of high wear. Something easier to apply and a little more permanent is an acrylic resolene, though that get's into the synthetic materials a bit. So it becomes a tradeoff. Another option, for items made in the future, could be to purchase leather pre-dyed at the tannery in the color you want. In general, these are finished in such a way as to have minimal to no color rub-off, which could save you the application step alltogether. Wishing you well with the projects!

@@internationalleatherclub Yes I was thinking on just getting it already tinted that what I will do for my next order, but I need to make sure I get deep into this with the little tools I have first before buy like crazy and end up not doing more stuff. I ended up trying boiled linseed oil But I do not think it worked, it made it look nicer but I was still able to rub off the tint. I do appreciate your reply.

@@gallogollo1141 That's exciting you're trying things out, it's often one of the best ways to learn. Always feel welcome to reach out with questions, enjoy crafting!

Saphir makes some excellent quality products across their lines, Fiebings makes some really nice dyes, too

At least that, it's amazing! 😃

Hey 😃, good question, some folks might have a thinner wood or other material table, while by a corner or stronger leg of the table, vertical forces can be more efficiently distributed. Certainly, context and common sense would rule any setup choices, where sometimes creative thinking can help overcome some things that initially seem like limitations.

What a great find! It probably has a nice feel to it, too

@internationalleatherclub I actually used to be a CCA letter carrier for USPS, it was my first job back in the early 2010s! We never used these bags, we used ones made out of cotton and polyester which easily collected pet hair and stuff which sucked

@@tonynasaofficial Such a cool transition from there to what I would deduce is NASA currently, thanks for your public service in a number of ways! I wonder if cost was the driver to switch materials. It seems many things made through the early half of the 1900s would generally perform better and last longer (leather items, boots, shoes, wool coats/clothing, etc.), often while providing a better user experience.

Hello 😃, the type of project will be a factor in good needle selection. What sort of item are you planning to work with/make?

@@internationalleatherclub i am making leather football shoe, I want to sew it with hands, I want machine needle which should be around 3 inches long,

@@amolpatil8777 That sounds like a fun project. For a machine needle it would depend on the specific machine it might be used for. If sewing by hand, something like a glovers needle, or a saddler's harness needle might work well.

@@internationalleatherclub its not a fun project, i am making shoes for myself, i have 2 different size feet and hence i have to make them otherwise buy 2 different pairs As for the doubt, which needle type is having longest needle for sewing on machine, i want maximum length ?

@@amolpatil8777 I understand what you are saying about the different sizes, I imagine that can be frustrating at times. For the machine needle, I'd suggest looking up the needles that fit your specific machine, as that will help ensure whatever you choose will fit it just right and help to give good results. Wishing you well with the project, I hope it all goes great.

Hello great question - we haven't done long-term rub-off tests on them, though in general most leather that has not been factory-dyed, will generally benefit from a sealing layer over a home-dyed piece. For example a resolene coating or something similar. This helps as many will rub off somewhat over time (even when buffed thoroughly), and can vary in amount based on conditions used in (like something for everyday wear that might come into contact with rain, etc.). So with a coating, it becomes less key which one naturally rubs off more, while that's also a great things to know and something we'd be curious to explore, too. Thanks for adding to the discussion.

@@internationalleatherclub Wow thank you for responding to the question yourself, all I hoped for was a random reader comment 🥰

@@glacialimpala You're welcome! It was a great question, glad to try and help 👍

Hello 😃 There can be a few variables like leather type, absorbancy, etc. Though as a simple answer, here are a few thoughts: Olive oil isn't great for heirloom leather or items that will be kept and used for decades. That said, it's often not as bad as some synthetic leather conditioners. Basically, anything that goes into the leather generally stays in there. Options can be: 1 - If it's a very important or long-term heirloom item, maybe try to remove the olive oil stain (possibly by absorbing with corn starch), then clean, and condition the item with a regular conditioner to apply a healty, even tone. 2 - If it's more of a utility item to be used as functional and you're ok with the color of the existing oil, lightly conditioning with olive oil can help even out the tone, and add some conditioning. I rarely recommend olive for this, though some folks truly use it much of the time. So it really becomes a personal preference on leather type and how one wants to maintain/keep it. Testing anything in a tiny area usually helps a lot, then once you know you like the result, can often continue with the rest. Wishing you well with it!

Hey 😃thanks for the kind words. The wax can "dull" the color some, as it will provide a translucent coating over it (white, or another color wax). It will also give the surafce a different feel, if applied to all of it. There might be some other options to just tone down the color, though if you also like the protection the wax can provide (water and abrasion resistance), then it might work well for that.

Hello 😃, this video might help: czcams.com/video/gaHz9CJTRsM/video.html In general, Full Grain has kept some or all of the uppermost layers of the hide (usually the strongest and most dense). Shell Cordovan is by its nature a strong, dense leather - and as to it being "full grain", it would depend on how the individual tanner processes and finished it.

That would be quite luxurious 😃 There is a popular style of sofa called the Chesterfield sofa that dates back to the 1700s. Lots of shops large and small make them in all different leather types today, it's quite possible someone either does, or already has the experience and skills to make in full grain veg tan.

Hello 😃 In general between the two the difference will be subtle though the mink oil blend might be a little softer since it includes a few other elements beyond neatsfoot oil (while common mink oil blends often do include neatsfoot oil, too). A truly pure mink oil (99-100% pure, not a blend) will likely soften more. They'll be a little tricker to find, though still available.

Bick 4 is better than both depending on the type of leather you’re trying to soften up and it doesn’t darken any color. Regardless of what you use, make sure none of the products you use contain silicon like the products in this video.

@@dustang5.O Bick 4 in general performs well, though seems too as of 2017, to have neatsfoot oil and silicone in it: cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0275/0418/1290/files/BICK_4_-_CA_RIGHT_TO_KNOW.pdf?v=1631557742 Many manufactures keep the ingredients vague, and can be tricky to find out more about them. it's really tough to find all-natural conditioners! I think we've come across maybe only a handful out of hundreds of products.

Thanks for the support, glad it was helpful!

Hello 😃 The Finisher might be a little more forgiving and easier to apply, and has that range of finish styles from matte to gloss. The 4-Coat might dry a little faster, giving less working time especially for larger surfaces (to blend and such), while it can have some enhanced durability after a few coats. For ease and overall good performance, the acrylic finisher is probably useful. For more durability and a little tricker application, the 4 coat could be worth trying. Some finishes can even be "thinned" to preference, so often if I'll be doing repeated work (like you might be with the bags), it can be great to test a few things out and then see what gives the best results for that application. Hope that helps some!

Hello 😀 Best would be to check with the manufacturer of the compound as they might have the most accruate reference. Aside from that, there are general grit to micron conversion tables (lots on google) where an approximation can be derived, which might be good depending what the use is.

Hey 😃 It can work on a lot of leathers, and a natural leather football should see similar results as others. If it's one that will be handled and played with, this can be a helpful option. If it's an archival or vintage piece for preservation, a more gentle, or other preservation approach might help more, as neatsfoot oil can cause some degradation to the fibers over time.

You're very welcome! Thanks for letting us know 😃

Suede is essentially a leather sanded to expose and raise the fibers from the middle layers of a hide. While nubuck is essentially the sanded and raised fibers from the top grain layer of the leather - resulting in shorter and slightly stronger fibers usually found in nubuck vs longer and more flexible fibers in suede).

Yes as a victim of marketing I was self debate if I should use the yellow saddle soap on my white bag 😆

Thanks for commenting and we're so glad it's helpful! And hopefully it becomes less dry than when it was shipped 😃

@@DungNguyen-ti9dk I originally thought similar! 😃

@@internationalleatherclub might be off topic but what is better between cadillac leather care and Fiebing’s saddle soap?

@@internationalleatherclubthank you for your time ❤

It gets me curious I'd love if there were some reference for treatments people have applied 50+ years ago and the results and how they've held up to today. It sounds like you have some really cool collectibles, and into history. We could probably chat it up!

Hello! 😀 Thanks for adding to the discussion and mentioning your project, it sounds like an exciting one. Those grips can be especially worn sometimes and very flaky/fragile. And cool that you are preserving history! As to Pecards, I believe they use a distilled Petrolatum ingredient, a refined type of a petroleum-based product. For historical preservation, I'll generally lean towards a full natural ingredient approach where possible (and items might be handled). Or, a natural-state preservation approach regulated primarily by temperature and humidy conditions (essentially leaving the original piece untouched). Usually for archival pieces, I'll generally lean towards not applying anything, as the tanning agents used in older items can vary greatly, and we can never be totally sure how any product (synthetic or natural) might interact. In modern times it's similar, too, and much why manufacturers always put something like "test in a small area first, etc." on their products. So it really comes down to personal preference and how much one wants to learn towards a handle-able object without vs. a viewing piece. Historic items are great! Excited for you

You're very welcome, and thanks for taking a moment to comment and add to the discussion. Wishing you well on your projects!

Wow! That is exciting context, I've pinned your comment so others can see it, too. The globe is such a natural and symbolic first piece. And I've always been curious about the frame! It's certainly a large, custom piece. Did you choose the overall size yourself, or was there a collective vision for the size beforehand? I wonder if Jim still has the original box. That must have been a small project on it's own you did just to create that 😃 Such an inspiring project that brings the global community closer, it would be great to see more. And thanks for commenting, we're so glad you found this here, I was delighted to see your note.

Hi Gina! 😃 It's great to connect, and thank you for sharing more context around this. We aim to be as historically accurate as possible so your mentions certainly add to this. I've updated the description too, to include the title of your work. Which, is incredible, especially so to hear that you are self-taught! It's always special to see great talent express itself, and this piece is definitely one. And agreed, it's great to see this in Jim's studio, we get to learn so much with and from him, it's a real treat for the craft (and us!).

Yes it can have some really unique properties to it, and strength too. Thanks for taking a moment to comment with us

Possibly not! We need to solve the mystery 😃

You're very welcome! Thanks for taking a moment to comment

It might be! 😃 We wanted to highlight the "froth"-making as some folks use it just dry, so it might be able to use less, especially on smaller items. Thanks for contributing to the chat

Some antiques dealers, especially before the internet, were a little less than upfront! 😃 It's great there's more access to research tools today, to help build provenance, and even moreso, help others authenticate it. I wonder roughly what % of significant historical items are just carefully-storied replicas.

It's incredible where some things can end up! Like that is an interesting piece of history and a story all its own. I believe some copies of the Declaration of Independence printed broadsides ended up in England and Europe, it must have been quite a journey!