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3x7 is always better than 1x10, I refuse to debate this. I ride my vintage mountain bikes everywhere and never do I think to myself "You know what would make this bike better? Less gears" Front derailleurs are great and the range of gears is superior, especially if you're riding on the street to get to the trails like I am.

Nice

I’ve been looking for ideas to omit the front derailleur and this is a good option.

DePuegeot's Shop hmm...

don't understand why you would go trendy with a 1x on a bike that was perfectly fine with a triple which provides close gear ratio's and is period. and the stem? Looks ridiculous with a short stem and a flat top tube. and you left the fork? Ok...everyone has their idea of things i guess.

Great job, Great video, Thank you for your time and tutorial.

What the hell is wrong with those cranks? They don't spin freely. 8:02 Maybe because the bearing cups were grinding as you installed them. Possibly out of alignment?

Those old punched steel dork discs are so much better than the plastic ones we get these days. I actually think there could be a market for modern CNCed discs with cool or custom designs.

Very nice, I might make something like this for myself. Just wondering who makes that orange headset press tool.

This fork is Collision bending

I still don't understand why everybody is doing the short stem thing. If you started out with a bike with a particular top tube extension, and a particular length stem, and that was considered good, how on earth does shortening your extension (cockpit reach) make it more comfortable and/or better to ride? I can only see this being a good thing if you were over extended to begin with. Function aside, I also think these older, vintage bikes with the ultra-short stems look ridiculous. I love the drivetrain upgrade, though. I am currently doing a 1x upgrade for my Gary Fisher.

Awesome build! Wanting to do something similar with an old diamondback i just got. What crank and bb did you use?

The bike frame was designed for someone 9 inches shorter than him.

Love the builds! Can you do a breakdown of the difference types of greases you use on each part? Thanks!

Man, that looks fresh off the showroom floor.. Pristine. Im a fan of the Schwinn Moab line they from back then. Very capable and quality bikes were coming out of Mongoose back then.

A Cake, a Redline RL20ii, and a Klein Pulse Race, Klein Mantra Comp, and Gary Fisher Hifi are my Grail bikes. I will have 1 of each one day.

my buddy gave me his 2010 Specialized Hardrock. I'm looking to do this conversion. Great video!

Muito parabéns bonito de. Mais

could rock the layback seat post

I want a wide range cassete but i'm afraid of extenders. i think they are easy to bend.

What do you know about peugeot cannon ball express? I own one that I bought new. It's an 80s vintage and I can't find any information on it.

Awesome build. Love your handle bar set up

Awesome work! I have this same bike in my garage with fenders and chain guard. I like your cockpit set up

Not sure about where you could find them in your area, but I've found the brand Stridsland who makes various colors of chainrings, including silver. If that can be of any help.

-hey, it looks like a parts bin bike... -it is a parts bin bike.

Crazy light for 3x gearing and steel frame!

Just change the fork and front wheel (maybe the rims too) and it would already be a proper 26“ beginner bmx… The Frame was made for mtb and was also used for downhill back in the days when I remember right, so it should take some hits… At least way better build as the stumpjumper…😅

Pretty useless build with that wheelset (QR on an bmx or dirt/street MTB is a whole story just for it self why you should not use that but the cheap single wall rims kill it completely) and this solution for the chain tensioning cuz those are both way too weak to do anything more then driving from a to b on this bike… Next to that the Stumpjumper is an alu frame for cross country what are both not the best requirements for an proper BMX bike… At least it looks cool and the frame is slim enough that it looks on first sight like a steal frame but for a 26“ BMX (let us, just for fun, call that a dirt/street mtb) you need in first place another frame, when you didn’t know what you do then could this frame mean a pretty long visit in the nearest hospital in worst case after the first jump… We have those equipment and it didn’t need to be expensive but for this frame I would recommend a streetb*tch in a similar build… Frame and fork are ok I would say but I would take tires with even less Profil and pretty hard for rough using like hookworms, then take an old but still funktional gearshifting set back on it (just in the back), put rings on both sides of the sprocket that the chain can’t jump that fast, and put on back a nice mtb handlebar with a nice rice on it like the mtb dirt/street bars from the early 2000th and put on better breaks with parallel system on it with clear or salmon pats on it especially when you just want to use only this single break (better would be another fork and a second cheap non hydraulic disk for the front, with that the current break would be ok too)… All together you will get a very nice and fast street racer what makes a lot of fun and still have a real use…

I enjoy your videos, but I noticed a constant buzzing on the audio on this one. Is it a ballast on a florescent light or something?

Jamis makes tremendous bikes.

Very tasteful build! You gave that bike the respect it deserves.

what size frame is that bike? I'm about to do this too

Someone is going to love that Frankenbike.

I like it! Congratulations !

Thanks for not adding background (nondiegetic) music, thus simply allowing the viewer to hear the original, ordinary sounds of the shop as you work.

Me encantó, genial!

Pretty one. The handle bar and the stem looks very good, great upgrade.

I still have my '93(?) full rigid Aquila, which is bone stock except for head stock/stem(?) raised to eliminate the wrist-heavy riding position of the original setup, a crotch friendly seat for commuting, and new tires. It mostly sits, but recently loaned to my son's friend who was visiting for the weekend to trail ride. He kept up with my son and friends all weekend. The frame is a bit steep on front end rake for my aging body and diminishing balance, but it is sweet to look at. Thanks for the video, I will have to check out a set of front forks that would make commuting easier for me.

Aquila is an excellent frame. That was made around 1995, and it's almost equivalent to the HKEK. I still have my 1998 Aquila. Full CroMo, a bit of rust, but nothing serious after a dozen years riding in New England winters.

Love this color combo of Gary Fisher. Your builds are fun to watch.

Seus vídeos são muito bons.🇧🇷

We want wheelies! Seriously, nice job.

Well done sir 👍

Does anyone have a CUES 9-speed cassette that they can verify this with? The rear photos of the rear of a cs-lg400-9 cassette shows what looks like a spacer on the back (which also matches how I would understand Shimano puts 9-speeds in 11sp spacing on the freehub body. Remove that (likely have to grind out the 3 rivets [*]) and you should be good to go for a 7-speed body. [*]Sheldon Brown's website shows how to do this. Doing this is essentially Sheldon's 8 of 9 cassette setups.

​ @DePuesshop , I really, really don't understand keeping this bike 7-speed given you bought a new shifter and cassette. That front GT hub is beautiful and had a decent Mavic double-wall rim on it. That rear hub was a bottom end Shimano and a non-matching rim, to the front, that looked to be single wall. If the rear wheel matched the front I'd understand staying 7 speeds. Surely you have a decent 8/9/10-speed 26" double-wall rim wheel in your parts bin. Or, you could find a used on for $20. An 8-speed shifter and 8-speed cassette would likely have been about the same cost as the 7sp parts.

Disagree with your opinion a 1X setup is better, and that you think "we all have needed". Best to just express your personal preference instead of Forced Teaming, or assuming the role of spokesperson for others...what you think? Cadence efficiency suffers with a 1X setup. Sure, you get a lighter bike, if weight reduction is a priority...or visuals' the goal, because a 1X with a large cassette looks cool. If you're only doing short 1hr stints, then I theorise a 1X setup is the way to go. Long distance, energy conservation, 1X isn't efficient. I've begun cadence experiments for my recent development into long distance XC riding. My current route is 42kms, but test route is 21km. Current setup is 3 x 9: 28-38-48 + 11-36. I now only use 2nd and 3rd on the crank, and 3rd to smallest on the cassette. Recently dropped the cassette from 11-36 to 11-32 and noticed improvements. My long distance riding would greatly suffer from a 1X setup, and my pocket would too if I went for a 1 x 11\12 setup. The cost of a 1 x 11\12 groupset...I could rebuild three dump find HTs for that amount, all of them running 2 x 9\10. The industry's PR departments spend a lot of money and time enticing folks to fork over hard earned cash for expensive 1X setups, but some folks are beginning to realise a 2X setup is better, for specific types of riding. 1X for DH, yes...for XC, no. Only noticed the importance of many gears when, pre-plandemic, I started doing 2hr road rides to my village on my 29" HT (shod with road tyres) 3 x 9: 28-38-48 crank with 11-42 cassette...and I needed ALL gears. Now fitter and doing 3.5hr XC rides, I've come to understand the importance of cadence, and you can't have efficient cadence\low energy consumption with a 1X setup.

So it is what we all knew it would be. Remco can't keep up with Pog in the mountains, and neither can Ving. Ving's only chance was to out time trial Pog, but as we just saw, that didn't happen either. So this one is all over barring any crashes by Pog. He'll end up winning this one by at least 5 minutes, maybe closer to 10.

Cool man 😊 I fix up bikes too , great job

A solid can-go-everywhere bike! Loving your build. I have a question though, how do you find the brifters work with the V-brakes? I heard that V-brakes won't work well with brifters due to long/short pull mismatch. I'm planning to build something like yours.

I did today Shimano Cues 10x