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All you need is a foot and a half rod with a bent at the end about 1-in lower your window down and stick it through the window slot in the corner by the lock lock rod but right in the corner and then push down on top of the lock mechanism actuator. remember down not up like others say

THANK YOU THAT WAS A GREAT HELP!

i would probably use foil to wrap the cardboard so it doesnt lose its integrity

I've been having tons of issues with an RX7 I got with a Holley carb and pulled the primary squirter off. Found out there was NO CHECK VALVE under it

I would have rebuilt the trans if I had to take it out, and 350 valve gets full of crud and needs cleaned out as well. Install a shift reprogramming kit also as 3rd gear is weak and the kit opens up more oil, and new hi pressure springs for pressure and 2-3 really help a 350.

Could be a timing issue / carb tune issue.

Why not just use water? Small amounts doen yhe carb.

They don't make good paint stripper anymore thanx to EPA

I run VR-1 in any hydraulic cammed car engine or any 4 stroke power equipment of mine. Best oil out there.

What transmission is this?

I can’t get my pump back in and I’m not sure why. Any help would be appreciated

Just a very thin layer of RTV,and a gasket wont hurt at all,just like some people wont use teflon on certain things😂

06:29 " ... having a SUPER issue with it." *_STOP SAYING ''SUPER''! EVERYONE IS SAYING IT & IT'S ANNOYING AF._*

This is NOT UNCOMMON! Happened to us back in the late 70's on a Ford 351. Someone stuck rags up into the intake manifold ports while intake was lying on a workbench. We broke/bent nothing as it locked up immediately... never started.

I did everything finally I took it to the man , the latch just froze up they got it out by wedging the panel from the door had a tool to reach down and pry it open , new latch was 200 bucks time & labor bout 300 bucks they got done without messing anything up worth every penny! Some time it's just best to let a professional do the job

I have same issue, with a th350, but it seems like it's coming from the cable? I pressed the bullet in, and replaced gear. Do They leak from the cable?

What was the part # for the rings that had the shallow oil control rings

Great informative video. Thanks, will be doing this to my 78 camaro soon.

Don’t be scared of it back it off let her click, ease it in until it stops. Do them all this way then you can go back and do a 1/4,1/2,3/4 of a turn. Can’t be scared of it, you’ll know if u back them off too far they get loud lol. Another trick is to take a junk set of valve covers if h have any laying around and drill holes in them or cut the center out to access the lifter nuts for mess free adjustment. Also another tip is to remove the rocker arm nuts with engine off and dimple or slight cremp the top of the rocker arm nut so the nut won’t back off, a lot of people don’t realize this but the rocker arm nuts are theoretically “one time use”. Not meant to back off and run in more than a few times. Just my 2 cents take it like a grain of salt. Another option is to Drain a quart of oil out then top it back off with a quart of desiel fuel, fire it up let it idle for 20-30 min around 800 or 1000 rpm. Do not put engine under load during this procedure. Then drain and add new filter and oil. This should help flush out sludge from pushrods etc.

I’m having the same issue

Thanks for this video. I’ve used it twice now. First in the powerglide in my 64 Nova wagon and now on the TH350 on my 70 C10.

It’s not pounds (lbs) of vacuum it’s inches. (In) 😅

My 200r4 , was rebuilt two years now and I finally found the root cause of the problem. I’ll be pulling that vent tube out tomorrow, thanks for the advice and great video. I’ll keep you guys updated on my results.

NOTE.. The frame wont simply fall away from body on drivers side. The steering box is attached to frame and steering linkage holds subframe fairly tight to underbody. Steering box needs to have bolts pulled out to get freeplay between subframe and body.. ( Didnt need to loosen steering box ) Passenger side is as you stated.. At least in my 1970 I just swapped bushings out, except driverside front subframe bushing.. Update, I loosened up all bushings around the subframe this morning.. Was able to persuade the front subframe bushing to come out. Was still needing a pinchbar to pry a bit but done. I didnt want to loosen up the bushings on passenger side too much. I had very thick spacer washers atop bushing. Remembered to put back.👍

Same problem, bought new cast aluminum pan, used Mr Gasket gasket. fixed looks grest no leaks.

I know it's been 5 years, but what did you use to tap down your seals? I may have missed it?

I'm swapping 6 on under to AV8. And I'm having motor mount issues of where to mount them and everything.

I remember watch a video where the mechanic claimed they put two of those rubber seals in the bullet to stop those types of leaks.My thm 350 oldsmobile transmission had the same problem.

Short, sweet and informative. No need to buy Chinese junk after watching this. What did you ever end up doing about the sock? I know an old hack is to just remove it but if you've found a way to replace it, I'm all ears.

Thanks for adding mistakes. I learned from them.. Seriously thanks.

You're probably hearing the headers

You just suppose to just put right stuff on the pan side not the transmission part!

I was abel to fixing my diseling by turning the idol down on the carberator (considerably 1 & 1/2 turns). Initially i turned the idol up and it started back firing really loud When i turn the key off. I was embarrassed to work on it at home because the back firing was so loud (gun shot loud high caliber). Friends said it was timing or i needed a new carburetor. Nope just idol control screw. Hope this helps!

You think the air filter would have caught it.

My gauge stays pegged out “full” all the time. Even with the battery totally disconnected. What is my problem?

Why do you have to have the radio blaring away during the video? Annoying!

*Thank you so much for the "live" walk through ~!

What width and offset are those rear 17 inch American Racing wheels? Thanks!

also laying on the clutch at stop lights don't help...it presses the crank forward, rough use will do it.

Look I'll always have feelings for u Minaj

I pulled my 351 because of freeze plugs repeatedly popping or slow leaking. Finally, I removed all of them, threaded the holes, and screwed in brass plugs with pipe dope on the threads. That was 10 years and 40,000 miles ago. No leaks. Freeze plugs aren't there to protect a frozen engine anyways. Two NPT taps, grind about half off the length of one of them to finish the thread. Then the proper size NPT plug. I can't remember the size.

What an idiot 😂

I can't find your video where you replace o rings on the bullet speedometer cable leak I having same problem on my 72 blazer

Do a ignition wires removed compression test with all plugs out and then add a 2 tablespoons of oil directly into the cylinder, wait 1 minute and crank record your numbers before and after. If they greatly increase your rings are worn out if the are all the same but one then you have a problem in that cylinder. Can also check for fuel in the oil, the old trick is to try and light the dip stick on fire. Yes oil burns but it needs a wick. If it burns on the dip stick you have a fuel leak into the oil which thinned is leaking past your valve seals into your cylinder causing the fouled plug. Could also be worn seals - try Lucas oil leak stop. Will inflate your seals for a time but they will wear even faster.

Looks like you are running really rich and need your needle valves adjusted on your carb. Octane boost only masks the issue by raising the resistance to predetonation with higher octane till only a hot spark will ignite the fuel mixture.

He probably hears the distributor tick

I've had three ...they were all offset more to the left about three guaters to an inch.. ppl l

Thanks

Can't hear what you say because of your radio, bad lighting, not sure what I got from watching this video

Thank you sir