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Glad it was helpful!

Oh no, sorry to hear. My first thought is your sprayer is putting out a lot of paint or spitting. Have you used this sprayer before and have you tested the sprayer on a scrap piece before starting your project?

@@TrueGritDevelopment First time with the critter and I had tested with scrap wood but it was rougher than the cabinet doors so couldn't see the orange peel. I know you can reduce the paint by lifting the nozzle but do you have any other recommendations for fixing the spray pattern (given its that same velspar paint)? Also I'd like to start again with the panel I painted, do you have a recommended process for doing that? (stripping? sanding? re-applying sanding sealer?) I really appreciate your help

Got it. If it’s the same paint, you shouldn’t have the orange peel finish. Make sure you use a waving motion when spraying and maintain a good distance from the object you’re painting. As for the panel you want to redo I would sand it down to a smoother finish. This does not necessarily mean all the way to “unfinished” wood, it’s just enough so when you run your hand on it it feels smooth, so no sanding sealer needed, but maybe a primer for a base coat. If you decide to sand it all the way to bare wood, then apply the sanding sealer. Hope this helps.

You could if the gap is thin enough. The advantage with joint compound or wood filler is that it hardens better than caulk.

I haven’t used those products so I can’t comment on their usability, sorry. Whatever product you use must be able to form to the space underneath the cement board. I would think regular concrete may dry quicker and leave some air gaps? Hope this helps.

Oh man, I wouldn’t think a warm satin will add any color.

Anything is possible but not ideal IMO especially if you have 2nd or 3rd flr windows. I would replace the brick moulding after installing the windows.

My bad. I basically sat on the sill (be careful and make sure you balance your weight so not to tip over) and unscrewed the storm frame. Where the screws were stripped I used a drill bit to drill through the screw. That’s pretty much it really. Hope this helps.

@@TrueGritDevelopment That helps! Thanks.

Thank you! Appreciate the vote of confidence. I do it both ways and I do agree removing the sashes makes it much lighter. I thought it was quicker to leave the sashes on, but didn’t really save that much time. I take the sashes out most of the time.

@@TrueGritDevelopment thank you for the response man you did a very detailed and thorough video and I’m sure you helped out many people with this video. I have a random question. I recently measured someone’s house and I always try to get inside and outside measurements and the windows were 3 inches different on the inside then they were the outside. Have you ever ever ran across something like this?

Mmm…if this a replacement job, I would only measure inside and go with that. On the outside you maybe catching some of the trim or whatever. I measure inside the sashes as I show in the video, so whether you’re inside or outside the measurement should match.

@@TrueGritDevelopment good idea. Thank you. I mostly do apartments and keep busy but I do houses too, though not nearly as often and this is the first I’ve come across it. Every windows different but these are the strangest I’ve come across.

Thanks for the tip!

Glad it’s helpful. Thanks for watching 👊🏼

Do it. You got this.

Haha…many houses aren’t. In this case you’re only concerned with the window opening, so maybe reframe or adjust the opening and get a smaller window? Just my two cents.

Thanks for the sub!

Thank you! I agree with your “level up” suggestions.

Sounds to me like the issue maybe with your back stop? Try to put the saw on its back and take a level to the fence to ensure it’s level.

Love to hear that. Good luck 👍🏼

Thank you 🙏🏼

Two completely different products. The sanding sealer should be used on unfinished wood to seal the fibers for a smoother finish. This product looks like wax or vaseline, it fills the grain and becomes solid over time. Hope this helps.

Here is a link to my Pela 150 installation where I show how to measure for the window: Pella- How to install vinyl replacement window Pella 150 czcams.com/video/sDCmXNTiTXw/video.html

Thank u. Why did you not remove the pella windows like u did with the united when u installed it.

You mean the sashes? Either way is fine. Removing the sashes makes the window lighter, but you have to pay close attention to ensure it’s square and sashes operate smoothly. I’ve also been dealing with back problems, so these days I try to work around heavier loads.

Thank you. They were older wooden windows, some didn’t operate well and others were not lined up right and figured from a resale standpoint point the house will be worth more.

Thank you 🙏🏼

Thank you. I show it in minute 8:10. I basically used my Brad nailer.

Thank you for sharing. Much appreciated and I am glad it’s helpful for you 👍🏼

Thank you. Very gd question. They are comparable, maybe the Pella edges the United, if I had to choose. I felt the Pella were a bit more sturdy. If you’re on a budget, you are fine with the United. Hope this helps.

Clear Natural Look Low Gloss Transparent Latex Interior/Exterior Sealer (1-Gallon) www.lowes.com/pd/Valspar-Clear-Natural-Look-Satin-Waterproofer-Actual-Net-Contents-128-fl-oz/1000380897

Sorry to hear. What do you mean by flex?

Hi, sorry for some reason I am just seeing this message. What do you mean by flex?

Thanks. Just looked up the Kremlin stuff, that’s some high dollar stuff right there.

@@TrueGritDevelopment yeah it is most definitely expensive, but when you’re running wide open as a cabinet business, they’re worth every penny.

Yes, similar installation. Contractors are infamous with not using shims. They usually want to go in/out as quickly as possible. It’s important to have the window level and square. Good luck.

They definitely come in handy. Mine is starting to chip on the inside, but doesn’t really bother me. Can always spray paint it too.

5/8-in x 8-ft Finished PVC Stop www.lowes.com/pd/Metrie-5-8-in-x-5-8-in-x-8-Ft-Unfinished-PVC-Stop/5003699139 These can be cut with a utility knife, so you can jamb it in and shave as necessary. I caulked after installation to seal all lines and gaps.

Sure. Grab a super soft bristle paint brush for the rails and stiles and use a cabinet roller (the white thin ones) for the flat surfaces. I also recommend cabinet grade paint. I have also used floetrol in the past to extend drying time, which allows the paint to spread more evenly. You may find it necessary to sand b/n coats (220 or finer sand paper). Hope this helps.

You're welcome! Glad you found it helpful.

Haha…when you gotta paint, you gotta paint

Yes, but I’ll have a wet rag handy to clean crown right away in the event compound gets on it. Paint the compound to match ceiling.

Thank you 🙏🏼

Glad it was helpful! And thank you! 🙏🏼

Sure are

It’s not too bad. The boards make a big difference. Good luck 👍🏼

You can always sand them down and apply a grain filler to get a smoother look.

Thank you! After the grain filler do I paint again then apply the poly?

Yes. Did you sand between paint applications? Liquid brings up the wood fibers. You may want to sand first (light sanding), apply filler and then paint/poly

Are they too grainy? You can use grain filler (3 coats) and repaint. I have a video using grain filler.

Yes, very grainy! Thank you

Too late for sanding sealer. If you’re happy with the results, go ahead and finish them with the poly.

Sure you can, if you have space for it and don’t mind the look.

Yes, I would say they’re the ones you use for a lazy Susan cabinet. I haven’t installed these. Is this what you’re looking for: a.co/d/b1rmFrc

@@TrueGritDevelopment Thanks for the Reply. I found it when I searched. But the hinge I'm looking for is for Inset type door and this one says overlay type. I don't think they make such concealed hinges.

These maybe a.co/d/6EXQSWV

@@TrueGritDevelopment this does say inset on the product title but reviewers say it's for half overlay and not for inset door. So once installed using a spacer to act as inset, it does not clear the space for the drawer movement. I think I'll have to give up on it.

That sucks. Maybe go into a furniture store and inspect or look online for furniture and find out what they used. Good luck

You are correct about the S strap. This was a replacement, no new plumbing was installed. In this case there was a vent pipe stack connected to the drain that went to roof.

No, because these are low voltage; however, it’s recommended you burry them.

Glad I could help! Good luck 👊🏼