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@@BoostNBalast as long as the lifter doesn't have mechanical damage, there is no worry about the lifter bore.

I read all the comments, man. I'm glad it worked.

2000.

I had one fight a bit. Needed more break cleaner and working back and forth. If it won't come out after that, it may be mushroomed on the cam side, which this technique won't work for.

Heak ya. I'm glad it brought some value for you. When you get the jimmy done, upload a video. I'd love to see it.

Glad I could help.

Yes, to do a bolt in swap, you have to start with a 4x4 frame.

Yup. The lifter trays are in the block under the heads.

Tried deep creep, wd-40, liquid wrench. None actually break down the wax in the oil to remove the buildup causing it not to come out.

That's how I figured out this fix. Keep in mind, if the lifter is mechanically damaged on the inside, it wont come out.

I don't know. I've never done a cam install where the lifters were left in.

@@michaelcoffin4364 so it is okay to take them out and slide the new cam in? then put lifters back in

@@sosakicks if you are going through the trouble to take them out, it would be silly not to put new ones in with a new cam.

No, they will not work with a lift due to ball joint angle. Ball joint angle on these is improved over stock for a lowered car. So lifting it would make the angles actually worse than stock.

Thomas, sorry for not making it clear in the video. The frint half is referring to the passenger side half of the front diff housing. It's referenced in manuals and by GM as an extension housing I believe. So the housing and the appropriate axle will need to be swapped in. Should be 3 bolts on the axle housing and 2 bolts that hold it to the frame.

@@michaelcoffin4364 where can I find part for My 95 blazer

Here is a great spot to read up on oils and other chemicals. While not "wax" based as most think of candle wax. They are a pariffanic oil. So while not a wax build up as in candle wax, they are a wax like buildup duo to its iso and cyclo branch chain pariffans. Also keep in mind this engine is 22 years old. bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/paraffin-and-engine-oils.92600/

I like how you think. However I wouldn't do break cleaner. It will break the oil down causing major damage to the engine. This is why it's crutial to change the oil after doing it the way I showed. If you want to try and remove this before working on the engine, something like seafoam or restore. You may try some hot shots secret stiction eliminator. I've hear it does well but never used it myself.

Draining a couple quarts of oil out then topping off with new transmission fluid would do wonders, it has detergents in it that will wash out a lot of sludge and carbon buildup, really bad and un-maintained engines may need it done a few times before filling up with just oil.

Hell ya! Glad it worked. What motor and what kind of project are you putting it in?

It was done and my daily driver for a couple years before this video. After the video was taken, the engine was refurbished. At which time I noticed the frame was cracked again through an old repair. I made the decision then to donate the bare chassis/body to the local tech center so they can teach kids frame repair with a body on frame vehicle. At the time they only had unibody vehicles. I still have the AWD setup and plan to use it in a future project.

Im just in the middle of the same project, Im using an zr2 blazer. I inspected the chassis before going any further and there is no cracks and hope there is never one.

Sounds to me like it could be a possible lifter getting weak.

No, the awd transfercase is a single speed. Not sure if keeping 4wd and going with the awd front axle is a good or bad option. There is a cable that you can buy from lmc truck that replaces the vacuum system.

Anytime. Glad I could help.

@@michaelcoffin4364 I ended up using a combo of WD-40 and brake cleaner. Took about an hour to get them all out.

@@mike.fleming the key is they came out right.

That's where the parts came from.

I cant remember if the output shaft flange is the same for the rear, someone can correct me. I want to say I had the yolk swapped and the driveshaft rebuilt. I don't believe it was modifies length wise. Throw yours in and double check. Would take 2 minutes.

With 1000 miles on a new build. I highly doubt this method will work. Sounds like you had a mechanical failure with a lifter.

Borg warner 4472.

Yes I have heard of it. Sadly, this technique will not work with a mushroomed lifter.

This blazer is long gone. It ran before this video for 2 years. Then my accident where I re-cracked the frame from a previous accident I didn't know the vehicle had been in. I kept the AWD system. I would like to find another 2 door 4x4 blazer to swap it into. Been wanting to do a step by bstep on how I would do it vs how others have done it.

@@michaelcoffin4364 sorry to hear that! But definitely post about it if you start a new project and can i understand how hard it is to film while trying to work on something though but best of luck to ya.

If I'm going through all that trouble to get them out. I'm putting new ones in, It's cheap insurance and piece of mind. It's also faster.

Honestly, if you have already gone that far. I would put new lifters and trays in it. Cheap insurance.

No problem man, I'm happy to hear it worked for you too. Thank you for the feedback.

While my video isn't for a stuck lifter that you don't want to replace. Your comment got me thinking. I wonder if running something like motor medic, restore, seafoam or trans fluid would help remove the wax build up and free the lifter for removal

Absolutely, as long as it's not a damaged lifter.

Bw4472

No idea who that is.

@@michaelcoffin4364 actor. You could be a voice double for him.

@@e36sam ahh. I've not been told that before.

@@michaelcoffin4364 look him up. It's uncanny.

I thought the exact same thing while watching 😂

You can do it man. Just take it one step at a time.

You are still required to remove the heads in order to get the lifters out. This tech tip is for when you are replacing them, not just freeing them for movement. If you need them freed up for movement, you have way worse problems than just a stuck lifter. Also, WD-40 won't dissolve the wax deposit stuck to the base of the lifter from cheap oil.