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Soluna Garage
United States
Registrace 3. 08. 2019
Repair. Revive. Restore.
Specializing in Cub Cadet and Lawn-Boy, dedicated to maintenance and preservation of all equipment. Small engine service videos without sound effects or music and with reduced loud noises and startles. Offering opinions and perspectives formed in decades of experience, untainted by sponsorships or paid promotions.
Specializing in Cub Cadet and Lawn-Boy, dedicated to maintenance and preservation of all equipment. Small engine service videos without sound effects or music and with reduced loud noises and startles. Offering opinions and perspectives formed in decades of experience, untainted by sponsorships or paid promotions.
Cub Cadet 782 Revival - Test Run 2 of 2! #solunagarage #cubcadet #revival #isavetractors #kohler
4:31
Cub Cadet 782 Revival - Test Run 1 of 2! #solunagarage #cubcadet #revival #isavetractors #kohler
8:04
Cub Cadet 782 Revival - Steering / Wheel Bearings #solunagarage #revival #cubcadet #isavetractors
Cub Cadet 782 Revival - Steering / Wheel Bearings #solunagarage #revival #cubcadet #isavetractors
zhlédnutí: 74
Video
Cub Cadet 782 Revival - Test Run 2 of 2! #solunagarage #cubcadet #revival #isavetractors #kohler
zhlédnutí 161Před 14 dny
Cub Cadet 782 Revival - Test Run 2 of 2! #solunagarage #cubcadet #revival #isavetractors #kohler
Cub Cadet 782 Revival - Test Run 1 of 2! #solunagarage #cubcadet #revival #isavetractors #kohler
zhlédnutí 178Před 14 dny
Cub Cadet 782 Revival - Test Run 1 of 2! #solunagarage #cubcadet #revival #isavetractors #kohler
Cub Cadet 782 Revival - Engine Install & Mods #solunagarage #cubcadet #isavetractors #revival
zhlédnutí 206Před 14 dny
Cub Cadet 782 Revival - Engine Install & Mods #solunagarage #cubcadet #isavetractors #revival
Cub Cadet 782 Revival - Steering & Flex Couplers #solunagarage #cubcadet #revival #isavetractors
zhlédnutí 83Před 21 dnem
Cub Cadet 782 Revival - Steering & Flex Couplers #solunagarage #cubcadet #revival #isavetractors
KT17 Refresh - Final Reassembly #solunagarage #revival #cubcadet #kohler #flathead #isavetractors
zhlédnutí 81Před 21 dnem
KT17 Refresh - Final Reassembly #solunagarage #revival #cubcadet #kohler #flathead #isavetractors
KT17 Refresh - Engine Shrouds, Bench Testing #solunagarage #kohler #isavetractors #cubcadet #revival
zhlédnutí 119Před 21 dnem
KT17 Refresh - Engine Shrouds, Bench Testing #solunagarage #kohler #isavetractors #cubcadet #revival
KT17 Refresh - Reassembly & First Start #firststart #solunagarage #kohler #cubcadet #isavetractors
zhlédnutí 90Před 21 dnem
KT17 Refresh - Reassembly & First Start #firststart #solunagarage #kohler #cubcadet #isavetractors
KT17 Refresh - Reassembly & Junk eBay Parts #solunagarage #cubcadet #kohler #revival
zhlédnutí 109Před 21 dnem
KT17 Refresh - Reassembly & Junk eBay Parts #solunagarage #cubcadet #kohler #revival
SG Command Swap Harness: Overview
zhlédnutí 143Před 28 dny
Prototype harness overview for engine swaps on Cub Cadet tractors originally equipped with Kohler Magnum 18 engines being swapped with Kohler Command twins. If you are interested in being on the list for the Magnum/Command Harness or have other harness requests, contact us here: solunagarage.com/wiring-harness
Cub Cadet 782 Revival - Hour Meter Relocation #solunagarage #isavetractors #cubcadet #revival
zhlédnutí 79Před 28 dny
Cub Cadet 782 Revival - Hour Meter Relocation #solunagarage #isavetractors #cubcadet #revival
KT17 Refresh - Pin Governor Shaft / Fix Points Wiring #solunagarage #isavetractors #kohler #cubcadet
zhlédnutí 2,8KPřed 28 dny
KT17 Refresh - Pin Governor Shaft / Fix Points Wiring #solunagarage #isavetractors #kohler #cubcadet
KT17 Refresh - Piston Rings & Why Not A "Proper" Rebuild? #solunagarage #kohler #cubcadet #flathead
zhlédnutí 2,1KPřed měsícem
KT17 Refresh - Piston Rings & Why Not A "Proper" Rebuild? #solunagarage #kohler #cubcadet #flathead
Cub Cadet 782 Revival - Super Steer Axle Upgrade #solunagarage #cubcadet #revival #isavetractors
zhlédnutí 381Před měsícem
Cub Cadet 782 Revival - Super Steer Axle Upgrade #solunagarage #cubcadet #revival #isavetractors
Kohler KT17 Refresh - Cylinder Honing And Measurements #solunagarage #kohler #flathead #honing
zhlédnutí 137Před měsícem
Kohler KT17 Refresh - Cylinder Honing And Measurements #solunagarage #kohler #flathead #honing
Kohler KT17 Cleanup - Pistons! Can We Save Them? #solunagarage #gardentractor #kohler #oldiron
zhlédnutí 65Před měsícem
Kohler KT17 Cleanup - Pistons! Can We Save Them? #solunagarage #gardentractor #kohler #oldiron
Kohler KT17 Cleanup - Valve Lapping #solunagarage #flathead #kohler #cubcadet #isavetractors
zhlédnutí 150Před měsícem
Kohler KT17 Cleanup - Valve Lapping #solunagarage #flathead #kohler #cubcadet #isavetractors
Kohler KT17 Teardown - Cylinders/Valves/Pistons #solunagarage #kohler #isavetractors #revival
zhlédnutí 117Před měsícem
Kohler KT17 Teardown - Cylinders/Valves/Pistons #solunagarage #kohler #isavetractors #revival
Kohler KT17 - Engine Cleanup and Crank Seals #solunagarage #cubcadet #gardentractor #revival
zhlédnutí 119Před měsícem
Kohler KT17 - Engine Cleanup and Crank Seals #solunagarage #cubcadet #gardentractor #revival
Kohler KT17 Full Service - Inspection #solunagarage #revival #kohler #isavetractors #flathead
zhlédnutí 170Před měsícem
Kohler KT17 Full Service - Inspection #solunagarage #revival #kohler #isavetractors #flathead
Cub Cadet 782 KT17 Engine Removal And Inspection #solunagarage #kohler #cubcadet #gardentractor
zhlédnutí 181Před měsícem
Cub Cadet 782 KT17 Engine Removal And Inspection #solunagarage #kohler #cubcadet #gardentractor
Cub Cadet 782 / Kohler KT17, Revived and Mowing #gardentractor #cubcadet #solunagarage #revival
zhlédnutí 135Před měsícem
Cub Cadet 782 / Kohler KT17, Revived and Mowing #gardentractor #cubcadet #solunagarage #revival
1984 Cub Cadet 782, Brought Back To Life #solunagarage #cubcadet #gardentractor #revival
zhlédnutí 138Před měsícem
1984 Cub Cadet 782, Brought Back To Life #solunagarage #cubcadet #gardentractor #revival
Will It Run?!? - Cub Cadet 1641, Part 1
zhlédnutí 925Před 5 měsíci
Will It Run?!? - Cub Cadet 1641, Part 1
Update & Cold Starts! Late Summer Shop Update
zhlédnutí 976Před rokem
Update & Cold Starts! Late Summer Shop Update
Avoid User Error! Diff-Lock Operation Intro - Cast-Iron Transmission - Cub Cadet 3000 Series
zhlédnutí 1,8KPřed rokem
Avoid User Error! Diff-Lock Operation Intro - Cast-Iron Transmission - Cub Cadet 3000 Series
Part 2: Reassembly & Testing - Lawn-Boy DuraForce Resurrection & Service
zhlédnutí 1KPřed rokem
Part 2: Reassembly & Testing - Lawn-Boy DuraForce Resurrection & Service
Part 1: Carburetor Rebuild - Lawn-Boy DuraForce Resurrection & Service
zhlédnutí 962Před rokem
Part 1: Carburetor Rebuild - Lawn-Boy DuraForce Resurrection & Service
Hydrostatic Transmission Control Repair, Part 2 - Cub Cadet 1772
zhlédnutí 5KPřed rokem
Hydrostatic Transmission Control Repair, Part 2 - Cub Cadet 1772
Hydrostatic Transmission Control Repair, Part 1 - Cub Cadet 1772
zhlédnutí 7KPřed rokem
Hydrostatic Transmission Control Repair, Part 1 - Cub Cadet 1772
What’s the p/n for the head gasket
I would suggest the full kit. Kohler # 1275593S
What did you use to clean the ports
Wire wheel attachment on a drill. The longer, cylindrical style.
What grit paper are you using to sand the head
I believe it is around the 300 range.
I have this engine on a cub cadet 1862. It just started over revving, but only when once the engine warms up, do You have any idea what the cause is? These videos are invaluable! Thank you
Overspeeding on the Mags is usually due to a worn or broken governor. I would double check your adjustment and linkages, and also open the oil fill port to the crankcase and see if you can tell that the governor gear is damaged. It only doing it once it warms up is a little strange.
@@SolunaGarage I did look down at that gear and it looked OK. I just spoke with the local cub cadet dealer. He said he doesn’t think it’s the governor as it is strange and only doesn’t when it warms up. I will double check the linkage, but everything looks as it should. It’s the exact same set up as you have on your motor in the video here, spring setting everything. I’ll look at it all again though. Could it be something subtle? As far as I can tell all the linkages connected correctly and nothing is loose. I do also notice that sometimes the RPMs will drop slightly during mowing. It’s just slightly, not enough to affect performance and it seems to be random..
@ricardom.2687 carefully inspect your throttle linkage, shaft, and plate. Make sure there is not a way air and fuel can be metered outside of the throttle control...I agree that it is strange.
@@SolunaGarage Will go check it again now. There are 3 screws on the air intake that goes horizontally to mount onto the carburetor. While I was checking this all yesterday, I found one of them was backed out completely. I tightened it back down and checked the other 2 screws for tightness. I thought this may remedy the issue, but it did not. It does seem like there’s something going on with air getting in and raising the RPMs on the engine once it gets hot as metal expands. Something else has to be loose I guess.. The service bulletin 246 procedure should be done in any case? Even if the governor is working correctly?
@ricardom.2687 yup....if you don't want to risk governor failure in the future. Good luck, let us know what you find!
I do the "re-profile the sector stud",...add a NICE 602 (IIRC) to the plate adjustment,....and add a 3/4 front axle bearing to the top of the tube. I use super glue and some cheap 80 pound test spectra to wrap the bearing od for a tight fit. Hope you can use that info.
Yup, we have done these exact things to our other Cub with the Ross 2-turn. It does help a little, but I find that on these tractors and others that the friction of the tires themselves is really where a lot of the gain is to be had (or by getting more mechanical advantage by getting the 3 turn ratio box). We also install thrust washers on the bottom of the steering spindles. Every little bit helps. Thank you!
Your videos are excellent so informative, well spoken and professionally done! Keep up the great work!!!!
Whoa...thank you. I certainly don't feel that they are everything you say, but appreciate your kind words.
Hello Again From Kentucky. When you swap out the 2 turn steering for the 3 turn steering kind of leads me into a question being that I also have 3 Cub Cadets. Could you just swap out the worm gear but still use the exact same steering casing? Wouldn’t you think that the Ross steering mechanism would be pretty much the same between both steering columns. My steering on my 682 Cub Cadet is a bit loose in which probably needs a good overhaul. I hit luck with my IH Cub Cadet 107 and found a steering column that was very tight. It’s not a good feeling when you are steering to the left and the tractor takes off to the right - Not A Good Feeling At All.
I believe they changed the entire housing, but don't have one here to confirm side by side. It's definitely a different part number.
Thanks for keeping us informed. Could you share where you pick up your bearings? I need for those myself.
We are a Rotary dealer - Rotary is where we get these bearings and we stock them. The part number is 6534 if you want to source yourself. You can buy through us if you want, as well. Rotary does not sell direct, so you have to find them through distribution or third part supplier of some sort. The bearings we stock from Rotary are an exact match, down to the manufacturer stamping on the bearing housing. 👌🏼
@@SolunaGarage thank you I’ve been no huge hurry maybe once we get the wiring harness sorted out I can get bearings and that from you at the same time
Sounds good!
This is the 1 thing I dont like about my Cub original, the fact that it doesnt use bearing in the front wheels. Why it doesnt is beyond me. At least the steering assembly is more robust than my trusty GT2544 that has a worn sector gear, and of course Cub doesn’t make it anymore😂. Very nice job on the 782. It has come together nicely.
The 2544 is a great tractor as well. If you have the old gen 1 version with metal hood, we probably have a good used sector gear here if you need it. Thanks for the encouragement!
@@SolunaGarage 2544 sure is a great tractor, unfortunately I have the gen 2 version with the absolutely idiotic hood design. Whoever thought that was a good idea and of all to not make it out of metal should have been fired. Thank you though. Is there going to be more long form videos coming?
@JoshAllen17Goated yup, we will have more long form, fully edited videos coming. It's been a crazy year for us as a business and family. We have videos that we recorded a year and half ago that we still need to go through. The 1641 Series The 2182 Series The 1882 Series All these are upcoming. Just taking us a while to get back into the swing. In the meantime, we felt it was good to at least connect with you all again on some quick videos and updates with the 782. Thanks for sticking around!
Good job! You're the best. Why do you not like those decks, i always thought they were good ones.
I really like the 50C decks. This particular deck is janky, it must have sat outside most of its life. The pulleys are all pitted, the bearings are shot, the shell is super thin in spots, and the previous owner has really mangled the tensioner. I spend several hours on the deck just getting it to be functional. If I had another 50C around, I would have just swapped it over.
Runs excellent!
It does, thank you! Little ticky, but to be expected with original bores, valves, guides, rods, and pistons that have at least 1000hrs on them with no oil filtration.
That's a nice mod. machine, I would sure be prowd!😊
Thanks, Otis!
Why the 2" cut?
Because we don't have time to manage the mowing here much this year. We've mowed at 2.5 usually. This year we are so overwhelmed with work that we just need to keep it knocked down.
@@SolunaGarage Strive for 3" or more. Better plush, healthy lawn. I cut at 4" with a 1450 and a 50",....takes some doing to get the old ones to get the deck "up" and not rubbing belts and level. Dang,...I mean it takes a bunch of effort.....lol. Hope I can get my 682 deck "up" with this 24301 NOS kt17 I'm fettling.
Good job mission completed.
Thanks Bill 👌🏼👌🏼
I imagine it's hard to understand the ecstasy unless you have repaired and driven one.
So true! Nothing like it.
Looks like it came out running smooth. If you haven’t, I would check your engine speed at mowing speed which should be full throttle. Nice job.
Always wide open for anything under a load 🦾. We tested the engine RPM at high idle and it is set for 3400. Thanks for stopping by and commenting!
I love the 782 even though I have never seen one in person. And more than likely never will. If I do I will buy it. Ken
What part of the country do you live? I am in the south and they are much harder to come by than in the northeast or midwest. Best source I found was Marketplace. Good luck!
Hello Ken! Good to hear from you again.
@@nopriors I live in SW Montana. Don't see much for Cubs. Ken
Looking good! I can proudly say mine sounds pretty much like yours. Mine is running pretty sweet. My grass had gotten overgrown too and it doesn't even flinch mowing it down. It is just fun to cut the grass. I'm going to search for a 50" deck. Are the headlights original? Looking forward to your next project Sir.
Glad we both made it through the rebuild in one piece! The headlights are original, yup. Thanks for coming along and commenting. 🤙🏼
Bore taper more than likely where the rings stopped and started , which means the piston skirt will CENTER where it always did. Whats the harm I don't see it . Perfict curcile Colorado makes a caplesd ring for that . The second ring gapless with a thinner ring and a oil ring 180 % apposed, notched so it will stay that way . Also all oil should be pulled up on the throw torque side of the pistons . In a crisscross pattern. Rings spin the old guys always told me . Bullshit not if you don't want them to . Clean piston and ring with lacquer thinner. Use hytemp to pile the middle of the 1st and second ring , they will seal in place and never move . The adhesive will not cause any problem because the top rings are in the combustion chamber and any that flakes off is thrown out the exhaust valve . Only down side the engine will have so much consistent vacuum Mercury gauge you will have to learn to tune it all over again . Why ? For the first time in history of that engine combustion chamber completely sealed off from crankcase . Shit I needed to know young in my hot rod years. "Too soon old too late smart " Glen Burnne Barclay my dad philosophy ! A gift for you .!
Mercury gauge Max vacuum at final advance timing Most vacuums. Least advance . And that engine will scream with power .
Have a KT17 in my '79 JD 317. Could probably do with a ring job, but runs great otherwise!
Great job 👍
That’s impressive that your wife or girlfriend is actually supportive of your work on good old tractors. Women like her don’t really exist anymore! I have a collection of 82 series cub cadets.
She's the best. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Oil pressure line and metal holder on side of engine. I would add some electrical tape or rubber between line and clip. The line is copper and will eventually wear a hole. Nice job. I like moving the fuel pump and hour meter.
That holder is nylon, so no worries there. Some extra anti-vibration insulation wouldn't hurt though.
And thank you, I think the fuel pump and hour meter relocation is handy as well.
Would the buttons and springs worn cause it to shift hard meaning it will jerk instead of a smooth transition from forward to reverse and vice versa?
Yes, and basically any loss of movement between the control handle and the hydro will do that, not just the worn trunion springs, slot, or buttons. There isn't much movement required in the linkage for ground speed or direction to change, so any mechanical "looseness" will drastically affect operation. The small spring in the control do most of the work for slow speeds, low load.
Thanks
HAY THERE BUDDY I'M LISTENING TO YOU TALK ABOUT PEOPLE SAYIN YOU NEED THIS YOU NEED NWE THAT IT'S A FRIGGIN YARD TRACTOR NOT AN AIRPLANE IT'S NOT A LAND SPEED RECORD BUILD IT'S A LAWN TRACTOR ANG HOW LONG DO YOU RUN IT 🤔❓️❓️AND HOUR OR SO GEEZZZZ THIS BUILD YOUR DOING HERE WILL LIKLEY LAST FOR 50 OR 60 YRS YOU GO BRO CLEAN IS THA KEY TO LONGEVITY
Yeah, time and money don't always allow us to fix things to the highest level. We work with our customers to determine what path makes the most sense.
Looking good. Can I order tie rod ends from Rotary? Or rag joints? Thanks, Greg
Greg, I think to order Rotary direct you need to be set up as a dealer. Links to the parts below. The rag joints/flex couplers we bought from a seller on eBay who had the best pricing. HamiltonBobsCubs is the seller.
3/8" Ball Joint: www.rotarycorp.com/product/2210
1/2" Ball Joint: www.rotarycorp.com/product/2212
@@SolunaGarage Thank you
@@SolunaGarage Thank you
Where did you get your tie rod ends?
We are a Rotary dealer, we stock them 👌🏼
1/2" Ball Joint: www.rotarycorp.com/product/2212
3/8" Ball Joint: www.rotarycorp.com/product/2210
Do you use a crows foot when torquing the cylinders?
We use a custom box end wrench with a 3/8" drive welded to the end of it. In our M18 series we show this process and the tool. Kohler made a special u-shaped tool for this.
Great job on those shrouds for cooling!😊
Thanks, I had forgotten how much fun they were.
Looking forward for the initial run.
Same here! Hopefully this week we can get it back together and do some work with it.
I would love to see another compression test now that you have run it.
I plan on it!
This is very good information. I myself have a 2185 that I bought new over 30 years ago. The engine is starting to smoke, so it is time for an overhaul. Who does your engine block machining?
We have a shop about 40 minutes from us that does good work. They don't do any crankshaft work, but they do heads and cylinder bores.
Need that for my 2166,
Hah! Looking good. Amazing, I got my covers back on today and it was really a challenge with the motor on the tractor. Took some figuring but every single screw is where it should be. One screw underneath was really hard to get to so I soldered a piece of brass wire onto the end of the screw and used that to pull it up through the two panels and was able to get the screw started. Good info about checking the torque after a few cycles. I"ll check mine tomorrow. Also put two new clamps on new muffler I got. Funny how we are in the same orbit. Still can't believe how great it sounds. Peace Greg
It's an awful time trying to work with the lower bolts on the head shrouds with the engine in the frame. It's why we see so many of these shrouds mangled. Glad to hear you got it all figured out and nice trick on the screw! The head retorque on these flathead engines is critical to the longevity of the head gasket. You'd be surprised how much they move after a couple heat cycles. It is nice to hear that another old KT is being saved. So many people repower (and with good reason, don't get me wrong) with the Commands that we are seeing fewer and fewer of these old opposed twins.
@@SolunaGarage The next morning after I had put mine on I couldn"t believe how loose they were.
Running good!
Sounds great!😊
Off course it pops off! Excellent work! Finally got a guy to face my valves and got them lapped and in. Mine popped off also. It sounds great . I'll put NOS muffler on tomorrow and cut my grass. You really gave me the confidence to do all the things I did. I would really like to get more info on the oil pressure gauge and installing that. I should be getting my garage started soon and will be able to get my workshop and tools set up that are in storage since my move. Then in the fall I'll pull the motor and address the pistons and the rings Do the seals just pull out and get replaced? I bought the ebay gasket kit too and it is somewhat iffy. Thanks for the great lessons. Have learned a lot. Peace, Greg
Thanks Greg. It was good to have you along for the ride. Glad to hear your work went well, too. Yes, the oil seals pull out of the bores like am other shaft seal. Nothing too tricky, just gotta be precise and careful not to gouge the aluminum. We will make sure to do a follow up on the oil pressure gauge install. The plan is to finish the engine work then go back to the tractor itself and continue filming a little of the whole process.
@@SolunaGarage Thank you Sir!
Ready to hear it run!
High compression 🦾🦾😆
Can you make me wiring harness for 782? I’m swapping in an m18
Yup. Head over to the website and put in a request solunagarage.com/wiring-harness
Nice
Sooner or later, I will have to make a decision on my M18. That might be a winter project.
They are an easy engine to rebuild, and enjoyable for the most part.
Always learning! 😊
Yup! Thought I would spend a few hours in the shop today and hear it run, nope! Lots of trial and error, but that's part of the challenge.
The hour meter is perfect! I would never put the dash either.😊
A lot of people do, but I couldn't bring myself to do it when there is a perfectly good empty space that is accessible 👌🏼
Good job Sir. The wire looks like a heavier gauge than what was original. Did you upgrade that? Thanks, Greg
Yup, it's 14ga wire, factory appears to be 16ga, or at least has a thinner insulation.
Strongly recommend replacing the main bearings. Or at least checking the clearance. One can file the rod caps to reduce clearance if need to
It will run a very long time with new rings. Everything doesn't need to be 100% perfect to run a long time. I put new rings in a lot of engines without boring them and they are some of my best engines without a lot of unnecessary expense of machine work, new pistons and ect. If people on here want it to be perfect, they should all donate the money for machine work and extra parts.
Thank you. There are multiple ways to approach a project like this - we went in thinking it was just a reseal. Making the leap to doing rings and pulling the jugs added significant time but not significant costs in parts, so it made sense. If the engine didn't have the old style pistons and rods, we would have gone for replacement pistons as well, but we would have had to change rods to match the new style pistons. All this is to say that we think the engine will run better than before with more compression and less oil consumption and no external oil leaks. This achieves the goal of the project, which is to revive the tractor to make it a solid daily driver. It's not a show piece or a full restoration. Approaching the project with common sense, knowing what you can get away with *not* doing is the important part.
What models had this super steer axle? I think I need on of those for my 782
The early Cyclops - 1340/1535/1860 etc have less aggressive changes in the caster angle and do not have as much of a swept-forward design. They also have the stock ride height spindles. So, they don't changes the geometry as much but they also allow all the attachments to remain functional without any changes. The super steer axles that have the greatest difference in geometry are the later ones - 1440/1641/1863 etc.
@@SolunaGarage thanks
So where in the world did you find the condenser with the orange wires? I have never seen those before. Recently I found a OEM Kohler condenser and it was pretty $$$. My 682 Cubi Cadet KT17S had a single wire condenser rather than the 2 wire condenser like the diagram shows. Is there any real difference between the two condensers other than the number of wires? I have been having trouble with getting my ignition system to fire and I went to turn the ignition switch a few nights ago and it stuck on the crank position in which I had to really work the key to make it release. Do I have to take the fuel tank & bracket loose to get good access to the key switch from the inside? I played it safe and disconnected the battery cable because the switch was stuck in the “On Position”
I haven't checked condensor capacity between the two units, but they definitely look extremely similar, except for the double wire. The points are the same as the K singles. The orange wires, I'm puzzled about as well, I have no idea what manufacturer made them, and they were on the engine when I got it. I replaced the points, fixed the ends of the wiring, and left the condensor alone since it was running well before. I am curious, though. All the replacement condensers I see have the black leads. Easiest thing to do to access behind the dash is to pull the fuel tank. It takes a few minutes and is really not that big of a deal. I think the 82 Series are about the easiest of the vintage Cubs to work on.
@@SolunaGarage Did your Cub Cadet have a 5 wire plug that plugged into the ignition switch because my 682 Cub Cadet ignition switch has the wires plugged in individually on each terminal. The ignition switch has to be pretty old in which I suspect it the OEM ignition switch. That switch has turned several times since the early 1980s no doubt.
@TheIronDuke502 Yep, our 782 still has original 5 pin switch and pigtail. If yours has individual wires, someone's been in there.
@@SolunaGarage Yeah, I am really curious about what I am about to find. I had entertained the thought of using one of the heavier duty ignition switches like the auto parts stores sell being that I wired my headlights up on a separate circuit and will probably leave the headlights alone being that they work really well. So that’s one wire that I won’t have to worry about. I may pull the mower deck off to open up a little more room underneath the tractor I actually have a OEM ignition switch that I bought for my 1710 Cub and maybe a switch from HD Switch from out of Florida in whom I have purchased bearings and other switches from and have been pretty satisfied with the quality.
Did you fabricate the oil drain line
Yep. 3/8" hydraulic hose with two 3/8" JICF hose ends.
@@SolunaGarage Brilliant!