Video

I would suggest the full kit. Kohler # 1275593S

Wire wheel attachment on a drill. The longer, cylindrical style.

I believe it is around the 300 range.

Overspeeding on the Mags is usually due to a worn or broken governor. I would double check your adjustment and linkages, and also open the oil fill port to the crankcase and see if you can tell that the governor gear is damaged. It only doing it once it warms up is a little strange.

@@SolunaGarage I did look down at that gear and it looked OK. I just spoke with the local cub cadet dealer. He said he doesn’t think it’s the governor as it is strange and only doesn’t when it warms up. I will double check the linkage, but everything looks as it should. It’s the exact same set up as you have on your motor in the video here, spring setting everything. I’ll look at it all again though. Could it be something subtle? As far as I can tell all the linkages connected correctly and nothing is loose. I do also notice that sometimes the RPMs will drop slightly during mowing. It’s just slightly, not enough to affect performance and it seems to be random..

@ricardom.2687 carefully inspect your throttle linkage, shaft, and plate. Make sure there is not a way air and fuel can be metered outside of the throttle control...I agree that it is strange.

@@SolunaGarage Will go check it again now. There are 3 screws on the air intake that goes horizontally to mount onto the carburetor. While I was checking this all yesterday, I found one of them was backed out completely. I tightened it back down and checked the other 2 screws for tightness. I thought this may remedy the issue, but it did not. It does seem like there’s something going on with air getting in and raising the RPMs on the engine once it gets hot as metal expands. Something else has to be loose I guess.. The service bulletin 246 procedure should be done in any case? Even if the governor is working correctly?

@ricardom.2687 yup....if you don't want to risk governor failure in the future. Good luck, let us know what you find!

Yup, we have done these exact things to our other Cub with the Ross 2-turn. It does help a little, but I find that on these tractors and others that the friction of the tires themselves is really where a lot of the gain is to be had (or by getting more mechanical advantage by getting the 3 turn ratio box). We also install thrust washers on the bottom of the steering spindles. Every little bit helps. Thank you!

Whoa...thank you. I certainly don't feel that they are everything you say, but appreciate your kind words.

I believe they changed the entire housing, but don't have one here to confirm side by side. It's definitely a different part number.

We are a Rotary dealer - Rotary is where we get these bearings and we stock them. The part number is 6534 if you want to source yourself. You can buy through us if you want, as well. Rotary does not sell direct, so you have to find them through distribution or third part supplier of some sort. The bearings we stock from Rotary are an exact match, down to the manufacturer stamping on the bearing housing. 👌🏼

@@SolunaGarage thank you I’ve been no huge hurry maybe once we get the wiring harness sorted out I can get bearings and that from you at the same time

Sounds good!

The 2544 is a great tractor as well. If you have the old gen 1 version with metal hood, we probably have a good used sector gear here if you need it. Thanks for the encouragement!

@@SolunaGarage 2544 sure is a great tractor, unfortunately I have the gen 2 version with the absolutely idiotic hood design. Whoever thought that was a good idea and of all to not make it out of metal should have been fired. Thank you though. Is there going to be more long form videos coming?

@JoshAllen17Goated yup, we will have more long form, fully edited videos coming. It's been a crazy year for us as a business and family. We have videos that we recorded a year and half ago that we still need to go through. The 1641 Series The 2182 Series The 1882 Series All these are upcoming. Just taking us a while to get back into the swing. In the meantime, we felt it was good to at least connect with you all again on some quick videos and updates with the 782. Thanks for sticking around!

I really like the 50C decks. This particular deck is janky, it must have sat outside most of its life. The pulleys are all pitted, the bearings are shot, the shell is super thin in spots, and the previous owner has really mangled the tensioner. I spend several hours on the deck just getting it to be functional. If I had another 50C around, I would have just swapped it over.

It does, thank you! Little ticky, but to be expected with original bores, valves, guides, rods, and pistons that have at least 1000hrs on them with no oil filtration.

Thanks, Otis!

Because we don't have time to manage the mowing here much this year. We've mowed at 2.5 usually. This year we are so overwhelmed with work that we just need to keep it knocked down.

@@SolunaGarage Strive for 3" or more. Better plush, healthy lawn. I cut at 4" with a 1450 and a 50",....takes some doing to get the old ones to get the deck "up" and not rubbing belts and level. Dang,...I mean it takes a bunch of effort.....lol. Hope I can get my 682 deck "up" with this 24301 NOS kt17 I'm fettling.

Thanks Bill 👌🏼👌🏼

So true! Nothing like it.

Always wide open for anything under a load 🦾. We tested the engine RPM at high idle and it is set for 3400. Thanks for stopping by and commenting!

What part of the country do you live? I am in the south and they are much harder to come by than in the northeast or midwest. Best source I found was Marketplace. Good luck!

Hello Ken! Good to hear from you again.

@@nopriors I live in SW Montana. Don't see much for Cubs. Ken

Glad we both made it through the rebuild in one piece! The headlights are original, yup. Thanks for coming along and commenting. 🤙🏼

Mercury gauge Max vacuum at final advance timing Most vacuums. Least advance . And that engine will scream with power .

She's the best. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

That holder is nylon, so no worries there. Some extra anti-vibration insulation wouldn't hurt though.

And thank you, I think the fuel pump and hour meter relocation is handy as well.

Yes, and basically any loss of movement between the control handle and the hydro will do that, not just the worn trunion springs, slot, or buttons. There isn't much movement required in the linkage for ground speed or direction to change, so any mechanical "looseness" will drastically affect operation. The small spring in the control do most of the work for slow speeds, low load.

Thanks

Yeah, time and money don't always allow us to fix things to the highest level. We work with our customers to determine what path makes the most sense.

Greg, I think to order Rotary direct you need to be set up as a dealer. Links to the parts below. The rag joints/flex couplers we bought from a seller on eBay who had the best pricing. HamiltonBobsCubs is the seller.

3/8" Ball Joint: www.rotarycorp.com/product/2210

1/2" Ball Joint: www.rotarycorp.com/product/2212

@@SolunaGarage Thank you

@@SolunaGarage Thank you

We are a Rotary dealer, we stock them 👌🏼

1/2" Ball Joint: www.rotarycorp.com/product/2212

3/8" Ball Joint: www.rotarycorp.com/product/2210

We use a custom box end wrench with a 3/8" drive welded to the end of it. In our M18 series we show this process and the tool. Kohler made a special u-shaped tool for this.

Thanks, I had forgotten how much fun they were.

Same here! Hopefully this week we can get it back together and do some work with it.

I plan on it!

We have a shop about 40 minutes from us that does good work. They don't do any crankshaft work, but they do heads and cylinder bores.

It's an awful time trying to work with the lower bolts on the head shrouds with the engine in the frame. It's why we see so many of these shrouds mangled. Glad to hear you got it all figured out and nice trick on the screw! The head retorque on these flathead engines is critical to the longevity of the head gasket. You'd be surprised how much they move after a couple heat cycles. It is nice to hear that another old KT is being saved. So many people repower (and with good reason, don't get me wrong) with the Commands that we are seeing fewer and fewer of these old opposed twins.

@@SolunaGarage The next morning after I had put mine on I couldn"t believe how loose they were.

Thanks Greg. It was good to have you along for the ride. Glad to hear your work went well, too. Yes, the oil seals pull out of the bores like am other shaft seal. Nothing too tricky, just gotta be precise and careful not to gouge the aluminum. We will make sure to do a follow up on the oil pressure gauge install. The plan is to finish the engine work then go back to the tractor itself and continue filming a little of the whole process.

@@SolunaGarage Thank you Sir!

High compression 🦾🦾😆

Yup. Head over to the website and put in a request solunagarage.com/wiring-harness

They are an easy engine to rebuild, and enjoyable for the most part.

Yup! Thought I would spend a few hours in the shop today and hear it run, nope! Lots of trial and error, but that's part of the challenge.

A lot of people do, but I couldn't bring myself to do it when there is a perfectly good empty space that is accessible 👌🏼

Yup, it's 14ga wire, factory appears to be 16ga, or at least has a thinner insulation.

Thank you. There are multiple ways to approach a project like this - we went in thinking it was just a reseal. Making the leap to doing rings and pulling the jugs added significant time but not significant costs in parts, so it made sense. If the engine didn't have the old style pistons and rods, we would have gone for replacement pistons as well, but we would have had to change rods to match the new style pistons. All this is to say that we think the engine will run better than before with more compression and less oil consumption and no external oil leaks. This achieves the goal of the project, which is to revive the tractor to make it a solid daily driver. It's not a show piece or a full restoration. Approaching the project with common sense, knowing what you can get away with *not* doing is the important part.

The early Cyclops - 1340/1535/1860 etc have less aggressive changes in the caster angle and do not have as much of a swept-forward design. They also have the stock ride height spindles. So, they don't changes the geometry as much but they also allow all the attachments to remain functional without any changes. The super steer axles that have the greatest difference in geometry are the later ones - 1440/1641/1863 etc.

@@SolunaGarage thanks

I haven't checked condensor capacity between the two units, but they definitely look extremely similar, except for the double wire. The points are the same as the K singles. The orange wires, I'm puzzled about as well, I have no idea what manufacturer made them, and they were on the engine when I got it. I replaced the points, fixed the ends of the wiring, and left the condensor alone since it was running well before. I am curious, though. All the replacement condensers I see have the black leads. Easiest thing to do to access behind the dash is to pull the fuel tank. It takes a few minutes and is really not that big of a deal. I think the 82 Series are about the easiest of the vintage Cubs to work on.

@@SolunaGarage Did your Cub Cadet have a 5 wire plug that plugged into the ignition switch because my 682 Cub Cadet ignition switch has the wires plugged in individually on each terminal. The ignition switch has to be pretty old in which I suspect it the OEM ignition switch. That switch has turned several times since the early 1980s no doubt.

@TheIronDuke502 Yep, our 782 still has original 5 pin switch and pigtail. If yours has individual wires, someone's been in there.

@@SolunaGarage Yeah, I am really curious about what I am about to find. I had entertained the thought of using one of the heavier duty ignition switches like the auto parts stores sell being that I wired my headlights up on a separate circuit and will probably leave the headlights alone being that they work really well. So that’s one wire that I won’t have to worry about. I may pull the mower deck off to open up a little more room underneath the tractor I actually have a OEM ignition switch that I bought for my 1710 Cub and maybe a switch from HD Switch from out of Florida in whom I have purchased bearings and other switches from and have been pretty satisfied with the quality.

Yep. 3/8" hydraulic hose with two 3/8" JICF hose ends.

@@SolunaGarage Brilliant!