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Very informative ! Thank you

That red boat docked like a champ. I would have been real scared with that speed, but I guess it was necessary as he was going against the tide.

Thank you for this presentation! It's always good to brush-up on the basics! Greetings from R-31 CB 'Jackpot II' from Stamford CT..!

Thanks for this advice Martin. Well done.

Thank you so much, Martin! This presentation is a top notch lesson for me, A+. I might be close to understanding how I will be managing the new boat, (a Rosborough), you're a huge help!!

Martin, how did you get to the back of the VHF to connect the RAM? I've got the same basic helm set-up (Cutwater) and I'm guessing you had to remove a bulkhead in the head to access the right-side console & VHF. Lost the Plotter's GPS feed to the VHF and assume one connector on that wire came loose. Good VHF review, thank you.

Monitoring 13 and 14 (Puget Sound) is good for situational awareness and if you need to coordinate/communicate with larger commercial traffic. Channel 13 is designated "bridge to bridge" and is intended for use between the bridges of vessels over 20 meters in length to reduce the chance of accidents. Channel 13 may only be used to transmit information necessary for the safe navigation of vessels. It is the backup channel for the Puget Sound Vessel Traffic Service. In Puget Sound, Channel 14 is the Vessel Traffic Service channel in Puget Sound. Channel 5A is used in the US waters of Admiralty Inlet, the Strait of Juan de Fuca and San Juan Islands. These channels are used by vessels required to participate in the PSVTS, but all vessels operating in commercial traffic areas are encouraged to monitor them to become aware of major vessel movements and hazardous conditions. Emergency communication will be accepted from any vessel by the Seattle Traffic watch. Use low power (1 watt).

Thanks for the quick comms brief.

Awesome presentation sir, thanks!

Thanks for the reply! I got it sorted out. Some of the red conductors were covered with a corrugated plastic sleeve and I wasn't sure which conductors were positive. All the negatives were yellow. One quick question...when I plug into shore power all is good, but when I turn on the battery charger I get a faint LED light on the Rev Polarity bulb and a faint light on the inverter bulb!!??? What do you think is causing that? Thanks! Bob

Hi! Long time subscriber and watch all of your videos..with thumbs up! I have 1 2020 CutwaterC-24. OK...I'm dumb. Just bought 2 new Continental series 27 house batteries and 1 series 27 Continental starter battery. Took the old batteries out. Took note of the connections and said to myself...I should go get my phone and take a few photos of how all of the connections are connected. Then my dumb self said, hey, all the connections are right here close to the battery poles they are supposed to be connected to...how hard could it be? Well I hooked everything back up to all the new batteries just as I THOUGHT they were connected. Powered up shore power. All good so far. Then I flipped on the battery charger and got a faint Reverse Polarity light and a faint inverter light. I went back to the batteries and I noticed that the Continental starter battery has it's positive pole on the LEFT side of the battery as you read the top label. The other house batteries and the positive pole on the RIGHT side of the battery as you read the top label. So I immediately unhooked everything assuming I had hooked up something incorrectly. So...can you send me the simple diagram of what is supposed to be hooked up to each pole of each battery..or just tell me in plain English. I call the most forward house battery #1, the next aft house battery #2 and the most aft starter battery #3. I know the battery charger has a connection, the ACR has one, the battery jumpers to connect everything in parallel to keep 12 volts, then the engine & alternator connections to the starter battery. It's OK to tell me...I should have labeled the connections AND taken photos...and maybe call me dumb.

Thanks for your good info. Subscribed.

Basically, you at a near standstill over ground for two hours. A boat for shelter waters.

Fast fwd two years later and $12k later. And wow, lithium is the best!!! Haha

Have you checked with your insurance? A friend of ours couldnt goto lithium because his insurance wouldn't cover his boat with them. His boat is also valued pretty high, so that might be another factor. Keep up the great videos!

Nice setup!! Are you an electrician by chance?

When you converted to lithium, did you ever consider doing away with your thruster battery and tying the thrusters into the lithium house bank? If you considered it, did you find the lithium batteries weren't suited for the continuous draw of the thrusters? I've been in the very beginnings of thinking about upgrades to a newly purchased R27 Classic, which has less room for batteries than your R27 OB. Though, I will definitely take your advice and increase my solar before I make a jump to lithium. I don't use the inverter much at all coming from a sailboat that didn't have an inverter, but I like the idea of being able to stay on the hook for an extended period, even during our darker months on the Salish Sea. Any recommendations on how to bootstrap oneself from a loose understanding of all the components of a solar and/or LiFePO4 system to grok'ing it well enough to design one? Do you think Nigel & Jan's Boat How-To site/courses are a decent starting point?

Great content as always from the salty dog that shook your hand at Kingston last weekend. Keep the great videos going👍

Like a 28, with a couple extra feet of swim deck.

With several family members aboard when you re cruising, how often do you have to pump out?

I'm up by Bellingham, but I've always wanted to know more about Dagmars.. Thanks.

Hi Martin Nice video as usual. Question: Did you add the bow cleats to your 27? My 25 does not have them. It just has the cleat behind the windless

Comparing notes. When I use a bridle attached to the anchor rode I consider it a “belt and suspenders” situation. The anchor/belt is what I count on, the bridle/suspenders makes it better. I removed the shackles from the bridle and snubber pendant. I do not want the shackles flipping around damaging the gelcoat. I do not want an untethered tool on a bouncing foredeck. I do not want to mouse a shackle. And yes I have seen an unmoused shackle pin/bolt back out OVERNIGHT. It is also much, much easier to tie a Prusik Knot without an attached shackle. Keeping the “suspenders” ethos in mind I connect the bridle to the snubber pendant with a high quality carabiner with a twist or keystone gate. I do not like heavy, sharpe edged snap shackles. BTW not to criticize but rather from admiration that your videos have becomes part of the human knowledge base. It is possible a viewer could think the chain is not part of the rode. Funny there was a TV program called the “The Beverly Hillbillies”. A character call Jethro would refer to the swimming pool as the “cement pond”. Ever since Americans have confused cement for concrete. For viewers reading this; cement is a powder and an ingredient in concrete, just like flour (powder) is ingredient in bread. FYI concrete is made from water, cement and aggregate (gravel). Mortar is made from water, cement and sand.

Out running a hurricane Leaving Bahamas heading for ft pierce fl. 31 foot boat 10-12 foot following seas Rode the back of 15 footer coming though the inlet Woopie

fuel economy? big difference

Ya no ranger tugs are way over priced, this one is $150,000 if you jump up to a 3 more ft your looking at 400,000 and for the 40’ is 1.2 million there are so many other weekenders out there that are priced so much better

It's identical to the ranger tug r27.

Just out of curiosity why don’t you leave the clip connected to the bridle eye all the time, then just clip to the snubber pendant when anchoring? That way you don’t have to mess with the shackle and lock wire every time you anchor, furthermore this way the clip is always attached to the bridle when you want to use the clip for a mooring ball as well. If you go to the Mantus Mooring Snap Shackle web page they have a picture at the top showing it being done as I describe.

Great anchoring video! Some mooring techniques: We use a spare dock line to grab a mooring for a short stay. On the cabin top, we have a long storage box accessible from the bow. Stowed in the box is a Robship Hook & Moor Telescoping Boat Hook. So we attach the dock line loop to one side, snap the line through the mooring ball eye with the "Hook & Moor", and cleat the bitter end. The process takes only seconds which is important in a typically tighter mooring field. We have over 4 feet of freeboard at the bow, so the "Hook & Moor" makes this process VERY fast and easy. The easier something is the more we are likely to do it. To get off the mooring, we release the bitter end cleat and retrieve the dock line. If grabbing a mooring for a longer stay we grab the mooring ball eye at the stern swim platform. As a recreational boater, the bridle connection to the eye is a quick heavy-duty load-rated carabiner. The other end of the bridle has both loops pre-strung with the spare dock line running through. Depending on the sea state we motor or, just simply walk the bridle forward with the dock line sometimes utilizing the dock line loop with the mid-cleat. At the bow, we retrieve and connect the bridle. To get off the mooring we string the bridle loops (outside the bow pulpit) again and walk the tackle astern.

Having those long legs on that bridle may cause problems in calm condition with the boat riding over it. I had the same bridle and used to tie them off to the bulwark cleats instead of using the eyes at the ends of the bridle just so the bridle and anchor line were just a few ft below waterline. Moved the chafe guards so they were in the correct spot. On the Ranger it would be nice to have larger cleats for that bridle. I also use the snubber but generally just use a single line to one of the cleats.

Thanks much for this video, Martin & LaZina. We have yet to spend a night on anchor (lack of confidence and desire to sleep soundly:), but it's a goal of mine to become comfortable with anchoring before next spring. Hope to meet you at the Rendezvous in a couple of weeks!

Great video and timely as we just anchored our CW 30 for the first time this past weekend. We were in shallow water with a muddy bottom so I got by with just letting chain out. I am curious how the transition is from chain to rope as I know some windlasses have trouble handling that transition. It did not seem to phase you.

Nice job Martin. Love the Heavy Duty Mantis snubber and bridal. I made my own that works but will definitely end up with the Mantis system. I have found that at times clipping one of the bridal ends to a mid cleat and the other to the bow cleat holds the boat at an angle to the seas and reduce my swing.

Great information - thank-you!

Definitely not worth the $$ for how long that will last

Agree big time there. We had our 32 at Dagmars for 6 years loved it. We have our 45 in a covered slip in Everett. Boy do I wish Dagmars could handle it I would move in an instant. Everett has had a 5-7% increase in cost every year we’ve been there with no capital improvements on the docks.

Does it work on blood stains? Or is there something better for that if you have a whole cockpit to clean?

One more point about the lithium as starting batteries. The whole CCA comments are non-issues. The engines these days turn over so easy compared to engines made decades ago. Especially the outboards on the tugs. I’ve been using lithiums on my motorcycles for 6 years now and they are amazing at turning the engines over when the stock batteries take time to kick the engine over.

Just to clarify. There are many different kinds of lithium battery chemistries. Some do not like to sit at 100 for long periods and some actually do. Just saying ‘Lithium’ is becoming less clear and in some cases is misleading now.

Thanks for not dumping the chemicals into the water....good job.

Hydrochloric acid, for those wondering

Until the next time the rust appears. Solving the symptom without solving the problem

For those wondering where to buy it at. We have it listed in our Amazon affiliate store which is a great way to support our channel. www.amazon.com/shop/letsgochannelsurfing/list/1FTK77KKMHX9R?ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_list_d

Too cool 😎 😊👍

I do the same with Bar Keepers friend. One all stainless as well as on the fiberglass. Spray and walk away on the rust stains and a nice buff on the stainless. thanks for posting Martin.

Dude i don't think you should do that with your boat in the water. Have some respect

VERY nice! Excellent tip! I'm on it, thanks so much. 😊👍

You were so delicate with the brush...nice.