Video

super unhelpful is your attitude. why should I reply when you ask such a question? have you looked at the entire video? it's in there. I didn't want to be explicit as it isn't the best way to do it. When I went to install it that's when I got that long Carlyle tool(from NAPA), it would work to remove it as well but you will need help, holding the crank still. You would probably have to put the car on stands as well. Install you can do on the ground, IF you read and watched the video......

hmmm... like I said there is a big "disclaimer". however I am confident the pin type camshaft bridge tool is ultimate precision. I should have this motor up and running properly in a couple of weeks then I may take the disclaimer off. I have done similar before but the sweet tooth alignment wasn't as good(which would affect the range of advance, and later the dealer finalized the VANOS) the motor will rotate without issue now and then. the cams are at full "retard" meaning where they are every time the engine is started when the holes point up. this motor on arrival had the exhaust cam over retarded and they say it ran. you can put it together and hand crank with a ratchet and look at the valves move with respect to the TDC mark as well, they are not close to contact ever. after market cams can increase contact risk. if you have TDC or cam position wrong once timed, then don't rotate it or carefully rotate it and any major resistance stop and make it right. spark plugs out, so compression is not present

Thx for the information I’m going to try and do it without the cam alignment tool I’ll Lyk how it goes

Is there anyway u can send me the camshaft alignment tool dimensions @samthing4thetrack806

@@volga_hackv8417 I don't have one, I guess the beginning of my reply above sounded like I did. but it's not in the video so I assumed you knew I didn't have the bridge tool. I just look real hard at it for "up". 😀.

@@volga_hackv8417 czcams.com/video/FlF21aA9F2s/video.html that link shows the entire motor rotating BEFORE I had the dealer finalize the VANOS. I haven't a video of the current build rotating yet, but it will be the same, and it does. :D

I misspoke but there is not alot of good information on this subject after a simple 20min look. This seems to be a good answer on volumes www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/499356-intake-vs-exhaust-gas-flow-amount-question.html

Breakdance! Lifted head, too much boost with head fasteners used. I don't intend to turbo like roll race or at all. I prefer track days and road courses. All good stuff there in that video. Nevertheless last build I simply razor blade cleaned the block deck and the gasket lasted without issue. Now going for super HP that may have been insufficient but so is a stock gasket, plus you want a thicker one or pistons or both for a turbo, you can get thick gaskets down to 9:1 CR. Torque plate, it's an iron block it has shown some small variability in bore sizing using the gauge I have between more recent warm days and the coldest by about .0001". Couldn't hurt to have a torque plate, I wonder who makes them? sounds like non iron blocks DO NOT really need them cool info on m20 to... Caught some of your RATL video yay RATL!

@@samthing4thetrack806 My friend was/is an E30 M20 road racer and he got a torque plate 2nd hand that originally came from VAC that will fit M20-S54s. I refreshed a high-mileage S52 from an automatic car last summer, and the cylinders were out of round and really needed larger pistons. The cost of refreshing an S52 exceeded the purchase price of a running S54, so the cost of going with oversized pistons, bore, hone and still well below S54 hp level would have been a waste. If I go full tard with my track car, S54, DCT and MAXX Race ECU.

@@ajl0426 those are good plans, however, diff gearing seems to be a deal with these. I have been at COTA and could not catch a light s52 car, he may have had a 4.10. Physics don't lie! Friend has a K24 13:1 E85 only EK Honda, way faster than me. BUT yeah I like the e36 and the S54. I am running 3.23 diff and have a 3.46 set to put in that will help alot the motor wants to spin! I may go to a 3.64 if the mileage is not too much of a change from the 3.46. I can do a 1:40 at RATL as it was, some E85 in there. I think I could break 1:40 in the right conditions but now things will be slightly different. On the dyno we were able to get super linear HP curve, so it can be done without expensive ECUs, those are better for esoteric setups or boost, situations where you might use 2 injectors or wierd stuff. You want to find a mid 2003 ECU if you can those have more capability

10:40 is just pressing the gear on the shaft, which you did. yeah your way is good, some may not want to take off the snout, I did just to look at the cavity and make sure there were no fine metal pieces in there, and curiosity

Thanks. I ‘think’ you are using a large socket and then tightening a bolt into the small cog’s shaft to press down the socket and press the cog back onto the shaft. Is that accurate? Thanks, Luke.

@@lukemowbray4944 yes sir!

Great thank you. Followed your photos and it’s done. Replaced the seal. Used loctite 510 to seal both ends and popped the new water pump on. Fingers crossed I haven’t stuffed anything up:)

@@lukemowbray4944 ha, yeah it always is a worry when doing the unknown, as long as you feel good about it it's probably ok!

agree it has been that way for a long time. but the thing is if we are talking all of their I6; are balanced so well that the expectation it won't be a massive error, just normal wear within color choices of bearing thickness in their parts chain. altho the v8s are the same, so unless a tech finds really bad Main bearing conditions that is all that is necessary. I was impressed with the indications it wasn't super precise but it was adequate.

yeah it was a surprise for sure, and in the end I take the blame and loss. the second motor I am working now is getting some "mania"

u dont want the chain attached at all and make sure the gear is well seated which may be difficult to see on the back side given the shapes. before u torque it.

@@samthing4thetrack806 Ok! will open the crankcase again and retry. but how do you prevent the pump from rotating while you torque the nut?

@@uscp2 25NM reverse threaded. That is low you can likely hold it with your hand. I would make sure it is clean and put at least blue loctite on it. Or other ways of staking the nut.

yes, I only wanted to make sure there was nothing that I could miss by taking the front portion apart as well

Great thank you. I’ve just ordered the seal. If anyone is struggling to find it, got the equivalent from Powerhouse automotive in UK. Suspect I’ll be going through a couple of those pullers. Wish me luck:)

@@lukemowbray4944 they are pretty tough all in all you can make one a little more precisely than I did in terms of feet metal depth consistency that would help. you got this!

Thanks @@samthing4thetrack806:)

Thanks, yeah, I feel stupid and not at the same time. A simple Pressure gauge would have showed the problem, but I didn't make it a priority. Oil Temperature I could see pan and post oil cooler. I had been thinking I really should put one on but didn't start buying the stuff. I have it now tho.

@@samthing4thetrack806 sorry about your engine bro i know its not cheap to replace one.May i ask did you had the low oil pressure light on the dash, i couldnt see it in the video at the beginning?

@@kirilakmadjov8307 thanks man! dash pressure light is lost in the swap to e36, they are CAN to e46 m3 cluster. I only needed to spend maybe $200 for a gauge setup and do the work, and planned on soon but did not get to it in time.

they claim it survives an oil change and it seems to do so, I don' have "data" on that.

@@samthing4thetrack806 yes the protection last a long time no problem, i use it in a BMW M3

seems like a very thick ABS, I think they say on the site. it has held up well since I have had it

@@samthing4thetrack806 thank you, do you think it will fit e46 bumper?

@@alexandermanov6872 I think you could get it on there but it will take extra work, and may not be as solid, if you are willing to "cope" much of the left and right side. The middle may do okay. washers could be enough, it won't look as seamless. I can measure the width of it

@@samthing4thetrack806 thank you 🙏 measure the length if it when you can.

@@alexandermanov6872 around 1.55m this includes the features that overhang from the back rear quarter panels. In general I think the center piece only looks kind of cool. The pieces allow some flex from the larger more contiguous center piece which is rigid

these should be faster than R7 for the first 3-4 heat cycles from new, I scrubbed them in 24 hours

@samthing4thetrack806 thanks!

that's one way of looking at it. but it does actually survive one oil change, that is not easy to capture in a definitive way but I may try it some time just to see. you do realize that sound lost is energy not being used? whether it is significant or not to a person is their call. the harder you hammer a nail the more energy you have put into it and the more sound it makes. I have found with my track car that the cycle is lower naturally, I put it in and on the second oil change it was noticeably louder after I am guessing 5K miles or more, as the noisiness creeps up. I think I changed the oil early that cycle at 7500, can't remember.

I believe in TX at COTA it was around 40 F. I may have said specifically in that video not sure but they were very cold as I left them in the paddock. In general these do not like the cold compared to others I have used

I think the typical shear test is a good set of information. I do not think it can define succinctly the goal of the product. These Audio responses I have recorded are good indicators of energy not going to noise and the wear that can occur. The significance of which may be small but every bit of wear saved is earned life. Shear is a very specific portion, if all motors were shearing constantly they would be very unreliable. They are made mostly to NOT shear

You have to drive the engine before it work on its full capacity.

​@@aciddiver1978yes it's supposed to take many hundreds of miles maybe a thousand or over to fully bed in. I used it in a 3 litre diesel with malfunctioning glow plugs. In cold weather the car took three attempts to start. After ceratec it started instantly. After 1000 miles I serviced the car and the oil was like water. The car had done 7k miles on the oil 🤔🤔is that worrying or not

mainly because no one complains about it, other than the seal. I did think about doing more but mainly that would be the needle bearings in the housing at the back. I think the front bearings and seals are more robust. there is some indexing that I also didn't necessarily see or look too hard for with respect to gear teeth and rotor position

cr6213 is a standard part number from many vendors, in the USA, Motion Industries has them. I do not recall the manufacturer. The front seals would be more complicated to replace and generally are not a problem.

I don't think there is a BMW option, not sure if there is an aftermarket one either. for turbo systems there are better couplings for EGR piping. Not sure what problem you are trying to solve. Rallyroad.net has the couplings I think but he is a bit sketchy on some products, this one would be ok

@@samthing4thetrack806 there is in USA, aluminium valve cover from M56B25 engine...

@@oktanskioktan9372 M54? yeah I think I have seen one source but I didn't go look at the site

@@samthing4thetrack806 M56 valve cover to adapt to M54 engine

actually no, it sounds like you ended up too thin with the tool that is modified for this. You may could take it to a machine shop and they may have a proper sized puller. other than that I would try again with a fresh one and modify it. with my effort it was close to being too thin

agree it seems to be a very good product

there are definitely unknowns but the change in noise level is compelling as to it having a positive affect

I don't buy from UUC because when I called them.... 20years ago I got condescending asholioness, and NEVER called them back. I think I bought underdrive pulleys from them. Regardless of my bias I think their stuff is overpriced and not as well engineered as other vendors, They get ZERO business from me. Bimmerworld and others have, probably well over 30K$ since then

That's fair. I liked their System U catback and tried a few other misc items for my bimmers over the years. Turner/Bimmerworld's my go to for BMW performance parts and FCP all the way for OEM stuff. Your car sounds awesome man.@@samthing4thetrack806

Daytona Violet original color in the early 90s on alot of M cars. Yes it is great! They brought it back within the last 6 years for M2/M3/M4 not sure if it is still available, it looked a bit darker tho some how

you are welcome!

realoem.com can give you all the parts just look up a 95 M3

Like you said WG is !awesome! and it is, I am glad you went there as it encouraged me to go sooner! I think it needs to be once a year!

I do use an X-S10 now but the photos of the car on the track are from the event photogropher. Any other stills could be XT-20, XE-1, or X-S10

so much to say. but at 3:13 in the video. look again. note the main cam sprockets controlled by the chain are mostly fixed. if u have not disturbed the overall chain relationships AND u had the cams pointing in unison ‘up’ at the no2 dowel point. u may be ok. u should be hand cranking the motor first w a long ratchet and not with the starter. if the above timings were not disturbed u are ‘likely’ ok. but turn it by hand first. the vanos has no influence without oil and control into the unit. the other parts of timing are important so that the cams are not going to allow the valves to hit pistons. The vanos causes the relationship of the cam to the main drive sprockets to move controlled by the large female helical gear influenced by the smaller helical gear "box". That box has to move into the female gear to make something happen different than static. The cam will turn by the chain only. At the end of the video when the system is rotated, there is NO oil or control into it and the system moves fine without interfering

​@@samthing4thetrack806so what I did is this. I was cranking engine by hand (not starter) with both helical in place inside their hubs. At some point inlet helical gear came out just enough for inlet cam to stop turning with crank/exh cam. I then pushed it back in to align with markings I had previously made. At this point it didn't click that the inlet cam was out of time. Stupid I know. I then continued to crank engine for 1 to 2 full revolutions until I realised my mistake. I had the inlet cam about 180deg out of time. I don't remember any difficulty turning engine when cam was out of time. Nothing I felt as if piston was hitting cam. To try and rectify, I put all pistons in a position where they are as far from TDC as possible. I measured them from spark plug bores to check. I then rotated the inlet cam back into time with 24mm wrench. Do you have any advice on what I can check to be sure I have no bent valves?

@@fvresonanator well if you are hand rotating the motor and it never "stops" then you are ok most likely. It should be super noticeable by hand if there is any major interference. Either way the vanos pieces have no influence at all, there is nothing driving them. 180degrees? yeah that is possible depending on how you located the cams at the beginning, I have no experience with that, as I was very careful with initial cam install and timing to fully understand the system, and the no 2 dowel points all that. but as for checking once things are "right" a leakage test will tell you if something is wrong. You can only hand crank to 50 or 80 psi, the cheap autozone ones are not the best(I have that one). but i did hand crank the motor I bought to see what type of compression I had it was 50-80 psi on all cylinders. so you would want to check compression on all cylinders look at this czcams.com/video/ZDn8GmwmGpM/video.html the vanos is a free "wheeling" system without oil or solenoids and ECU

@@samthing4thetrack806 at the beginning I hadn't touched or.interfered with the timing. The exhaust and inlet hub bolts were all tight. I never touched them at this point. What I've realised is that the helical gear is what makes the cams turn when they are installed. Without them installed the sprockets are floating so the crank can still be turned, but the camshaft will stay still. What do you means by no 2 dowels may I ask? Many thanks for your response.

@@fvresonanator you have to do the compression test... the male gearboxes are in charge of adjusting the cam within some limits of the rotational slide that I show at the beginning with the females executing it. (sentence deleted). I do not remember the exact VANOS numbers but its 60 degrees of motion on the intake and less on the exhaust in the design. the helical gears female and male ONLY do the "final" cam adjust. The main cam gear and chain do the actual timing. All of which is reliant on cam placement in the very beginning. Before chains or anything else. No 1 piston at TDC and crank locked. It's all in the video in detail just stop to read it. No2 cylinder dowel holes "up" is at 1:45, watch the scan of the picture go "up" and there are the holes, and also at the very beginning of rotation at the end of the video the lobes of intake and exhaust are somewhat "up" but note the differenced with the exhaust and intake cam lobe that I have at initial set. also see czcams.com/video/CwhQ9mv6zqY/video.html this shows the detail (deleted words), normally part of an exhaust hub broken issue

yah mon! ROCK and ROLL

have you filled the car to the maximum oil level? also it depends on the amount of oil the car takes at a change. I believe they say about 100ml per Liter and the bottle is usually 600. So a small amount of "over fill" is ok in my opinion. My cars are around 6L per change and I just add it. But you should think over how you would use it.

in the audio spectrum it needs minutes to show an effect. I have no idea where the 1000km stuff came from but it seems to be an opinion. if you can't hear or see it in the data I show, fine by me

likely, most injectors are the same at the top and bottom diameters, it's height that is an issue or the rail adaptations, then ECU flash to accomodate. you can get by with the apex tool first if going that route

I looked at that, I think it can be done perhaps but it is more work, it might be the best way to do it, if you can. The bends are just right on that tube and lifting it may create interference, I don't remember. So far I have had no issues this way, and have many many miles and track miles as well. But yes a welder and a tube bender or just one might be enough.

Would like to see your dyno curve! In this condition, there is no spark "advance" from TDC as I have the piggy back which can use any level of alcohol in the fuel, plus appropriate injectors and pump. that day it was E60 but I have had up to E77. if advance could be dialed in for the E level it would be optimal. There are TQ increases for sure with more lower. The runs prior to E60 were around 294 Wheel HP before being optimal, in the interest of time E60 was what we ended up for the end runs with the final touches. Cam phasing won't change due to fuel but timing can be optimized

Is your supercharger doing well ?

@@oscarisinsane yes it's going great 👍🏻

welcome!... I didn't plan on that event. :( the next is Road Atl I think for me Jun 24. I am worried about my harmonic balancer and want to replace it. VAC has an ATI one but more are not available until "june".

you could use the smallest available quantity 500mL should be enough. it doesn't take alot for most polishes

@@samthing4thetrack806 thanks, only 250 ml option is available Here in India. I guess then I need 2 bottles.

250 should be plenty, if not just plan to do it in phases say front, then doors and back, maybe roof in their somewhere

@@samthing4thetrack806 got it, thanks 👍

thanks, you guys were FAST! sometimes in my track toy I don't do a 1:44, and that was recently, I have no idea why yet. I have done a 1:40 tho, when the tires were really fresh. I am going to try to hit Ozarks next with Chin.

I think I caught some of your last Ozarks stint. I finally found a track where I ran faster 2:54 than you guys, a bit surprised. Go back this WE. Hope to do better, using F200 slicks and some improved aero

I am still evaluating them really, so don't want to say alot yet

ha we know each other! you are getting around well in your car, and you know the other guys with e36. anyway. I kind of stiff armed you but it is true I am evaluating them still. I am getting mixed performance out of the car/driver so far. ugg and this car keeps throwing me problems so i am not getting alot of seat time. last time at RATL, pilot bearing gave me a broken trans case, this time threw a serpentine belt, also ran without a lip/splitter. now on a steel fly vs. aluminum too. so it is truly idk. So far I have seen pretty good stuff from the tire. They say mid corner it is great and it does feel good there. But my times are all over since running them first with JTI in Jan, then COTA, then RATL, then BMP. RATL 2 stints, BMP 3 :(

I’ve been having a run of bad luck myself with some part failures that ended my track days. I guess that’s just how it works. I think I have everything worked out and will do the chin event on the 8th. Trying to get my e36 pals Mike and Dan to come also. I’m on kumhos right now. I really like them however they are not as fast as the federal slicks I was running so I may try something else when these are done.

it had a full head service but the valves were radius cut not a 3 or 5 cut, only on the intake side. haven't had the engine dyno'ed still. no problems with the motor, adjusted it twice, second time I was able to clean up 3 valves I had a little loose in tolerance. that was a matter of not having enough shims glad you are getting good info from this series!

I think for sure for a first event they will serve you well but with as much power you have, you may find within a couple of events that you may be faster than the tires will allow you to be. street tires like these once they fall off in performance they won't come back even after a cool down and will reach that point earlier each stint. I wouldn't worry about them but I would also not push them. they are not as treacherous as some street tires and they don't make alot of noise so once they start to get slippy in any way, just obey that and slow down or get off track. it is wise to not spend alot on tires early there is alot of "newness" to learn at a track event. for the future people do like the RT660 Falken quite a bit and a step up is the NITTO NT-01 but supposedly not good in rain

@samthing4thetrack awesome! Thanks for the feedback. I was on a budget and didn't want to spend 2k for the ps4s. But I'm glad I get to try these so I can see how good/bad they are. I have r888r's with a little life left in them in my garage, but they couldn't make it through a full weekend. I love them, they grip so well. I'm making 527whp and when they have a little heat, it never slips. So I'll definitely check out your recommendations for tires, heard a lot about the NT01s... would you recommend any others? Like ps4s, continental extreme contact, good year eagle F1 supercar 3 or super sport R?

@@camonly849 the corvette biggest issue is tire budget for sure, also stock brakes can be but the z06 holds up reasonably well. I had a friend that was tracking a c5 in the mid 2Ks and he was getting reasonably good used tires from people on forums. the r888r will be far superior to the Indy. People really like that tire, I haven't used it. PS4 get very slippy very quickly with speed, it seems most of the Michelin streets are not what they once were, I have no experience but this is paddock talk. RS4 are well liked, not as fast as some of their peers. Corvette stagger is not ideal I would go smaller widths on the rear and a little wider on front to try and get the width more equal. I think the last C7 GS i instructed was on Eagle, they seemed to hold up pretty well but the pace of the drivers were not to 8/10ths yet, and the car had double duty day 2 (father and son). You definitely have a dilemma with the vette and how to budget shoe it. but also looking for a second set of wheels that are less stagger can help later too, lots of good forum info I think to go research. vette track guys have a large group of serious folks it is a great platform so forums will be a great resource

Yes, that is how many of these lower cost ones work. I do have mixed feelings about it. It is fine if you set the height once, it is not if you want it for a track car and adjust ride heights after arrival, I did that in the past with the ground control system I had. Currently I am not doing that for my track toy because it is dedicated but it is on a more traditional MCS setup, so I could if I want.

I would say that it depends on what the "break in" procedure is, if there isn't one then likely

well in the narrative below the video I talk about the wiring diameter and issues but they in the end are fine. I have since used relays only because I was chasing a different problem, dual pumps for fuel starve on right sweepers. if you are not going to track the car you won't need to go that route. note that an S54 fuel pump relay does modulate the pump, i turned that feature off. other caveat is I don't have a turbo so I am not max using the pump, so the wiring will become more of a concern as power goes up