Video

This really helped! thought i had to order a new cylinder and get new keys but with the video i could take it apart and saw that one of the rings had snapped in half so just replaced it and it works :D

Bro’s intro is cool asf

Helped me make book time by 2 hours with the tips in your video, it helps to have people all over who can help you out when you're in a pinch.

All of this because useless fucking Ford engineers didn’t design a cabin air filter for these trucks.

MAKE DAMN SURE to tie a steering wheel spoke to gear lever or turn signal stalk. Once the steering shaft is slid off the shaft the wheel can turn easily and you can break the airbag contact reel/steering wheel buttons/horn (AKA "clockspring") and that will cost you and delay you.

Nice work. Thanks for taking the time to show exact steps.

Howwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww

Thanks so much for the tips! I haven't yet done it yet but I now feel more confident in making this repair. I'll update as soon as I'm done. I appreciate this so much now that summer is just around the corner. 😊

It lives! Kinda. Does it actually qualify as "running"?

removing the cylinder is much easier if you insert the key.

It's not a Torx bolt. It's a hex.

I have 2011 f350 and i was wondering if there are vacuum hoses for the dash? I sounds like I have a vacuum leak right behind gauge cluster.

Wtf is that pathetic mirror 😂

This video made all the difference for me. Your tips and suggestions were not wasted on me. My blower fan resistor went bad and I decided to get the evaporator core changed as well because of the amount of work involved. I was told by my mechanic that he couldn’t do it for a couple of weeks so I did it and that was going to be at least $1600.00 plus parts. Using your video and a video by Build It Garage I was able to do it in about 7 hours. I have a F-350 CrewCab XLT with a center console, so I had to remove more than you did. It wasn’t as bad as I was expecting. By the way, there are a lot of great comments here that were helpful. Thank you.

What city are you in so you can help fix my truck

Where is your shop? I have a 2015 550 and I’m barely getting any air movement out of the dash. Hard to find anyone around here that will fix it

OMG. I've got a 2011 F-350 Super Duty Lariat 6.7L diesel, but fortunately the HVAC is still performing with no noticeable difference from when it was new. I'll sell this POS before I pay the shop to change out the evap filter. And won't be buying any more Fords if this is representing their insanely incompetent engineering design department personnel. I see from 2017 and beyond they changed the entire system and added a cabin air filter you can change out in 20 minutes.

gracia exellent job

Excellent job! This video was very informative!

Loved the intro👍

God bless you. You saved my ass with this vidya and now I can pull more of these dashes out.

Great video, thanks you for your time and basic instructions. Long arms did help reach those fastener on the firewall.

GREAT video! Cheers from Alberta, Canada!

I’m now halfway through this job and wanted to add a few tiny things to this excellent video… Dash: 1. When removing the single “sideways” bolt from the driver’s side door jamb area, I found that removing the black plastic trim from the door gave me another 1/4” of room which helped wriggle the socket in and out. 2. The long bolts with the heads cut off he shows at the very end are standard 10mm x 1.25, probably 80mm long. I got two from the hardware store, cut the heads off, but also cut a notch in them near the end to “catch” the dash assembly as I removed it. This was a huge help - I installed one on each side as I removed the first bolts and the driver side helper bolt is keeping the dash assembly from pulling on the wire harness. 3. Be sure to disconnect the parking brake cable before trying to pull the dash. It’s easy to move the spring loaded arm near the firewall and remove the little barrel end, undo the plastic clip holding the jacket and it should come right off. 4. The bolt that attaches the dash assembly to the transmission tunnel is 8mm. 5. The dash assembly, even with the steering wheel, isn’t as heavy as the video led me to expect. It IS awkward and wants to flop over on you, but I’m not a big guy and was able to handle it fairly easily alone. I’m guessing it maybe weighs 150 lbs total, but you’re only lifting one end at a time, so not too bad if you’re average strength. HVAC box: 1. At least on my truck, the AC expansion valve is held on by a 13mm nut 2. Getting the three “large washer” 11mm nuts on the firewall wasn’t terrible for me - I literally just laid my body across the top of the engine and was able to reach the two “hard ones”. In fact once started I was mostly able to spin them off with my fingertips. 3. The 11mm bolt down by the drain was a nightmare. In retrospect I probably should have removed the passenger wheel well splash guard but I was being lazy. As it was, I tried from the top, the bottom, and eventually ended up sitting with my back against the tire and my face smashed against the wheel well and wormed my right arm up between the frame and exhaust and slowly worked blind. Miserable and achey arm. I’m honestly dreading putting back in. 4. There is a slip-fit duct that leaves the HVAC box and goes along the transmission tunnel to the back seat (if you have one). I had to pull back the floor covering and pull them apart to finally lift the assembly out. All told it took me maybe 2-3 hours to get everything out, and I’d probably be done now if it weren’t for the fact that it wasn’t the heater core that was leaking for me, it was the heater hose connection(s). Since I already bought a new heater core I’m going to put that in, but the o-rings inside the elbow connectors are, surprise, surprise, non-standard. Best I can tell measuring them with calipers is 3/4” ID and 7/64” thick. Of course you’ll find 3/4” x 3/32” (6/64”) and 3/4” x 1/8” (8/64”) in every o-ring assortment kit sold, but they’re just enough wrong to make me not want to use them. So, first thing in the morning I’m headed to AutoZone for some KT92 (a.k.a #800-418) Motorcraft elbows which hopefully contain the o-rings I need (2 o-rings in each elbow, total of 4). I suppose I could cut and hose-clamp the new elbows in but I don’t want to shorten the hoses, and I’m too cheap to just buy new entire hoses. Also, while I’m there I plan to pick up new o-rings for the AC expansion valve. I’m pretty sure standard o-rings would work fine since you smash them to oblivion when installing the lines, so I’m not as worried about those. Whew! So, if you made it this far, I’d suggest thinking about the o-rings you’ll need before jumping in. At minimum, get a couple of those elbows to cannibalize for o-rings and have a $9.00 assortment kit from harbor freight for the expansion valve. Fingers crossed I’ll get it all sorted tomorrow. If I learn any more lessons worth sharing, I’ll add them below. The only other thing I’m stressing about is dropping the bolts on the top of the dash while trying to get them started. I’m planning to rig up either something magnetic or maybe a bit of rubber tube. Good luck everyone! :) Edit (next day): Success! The only update is that I was wrong about the expansion valve o-rings - they’re special metal washers with a o-ring molded into the inner diameter. Fortunately AutoZone had part number MT2741, which is just a bag of general purpose AC seals. The two we need are in there! Otherwise, the only unexpected thing was three top bolts on the dash were slightly misaligned for some reason… just off center enough to make the bolt not want to start. I could see from the witness marks it had always been like that, so I just used a crowbar to lightly pry against the door frame until I could start them. To prevent dropping the bolts I used a piece of electrical tape to just hold them on to the socket. The bolts have a retained washer/flange thing so I just barely grabbed it with the tape. Once the bolts were tight I was able to pull the whole works out and discard the tape. A couple skinned knuckles but overall not a terrible job. If I had all the parts ready it could be done in probably 6 hours. If I had to do it again, probably 4 hours. Perhaps less if you’re smarter than me about multitasking the AC recovery and subsequent vacuum and recharge :)

Good video, would have liked to see some of the tear down. But you were very detailed in explaining what is what. Thanks, I learned a lot! If I were doing this right now at the age of my truck I would replace the sensor and probably the heater core, needed or not. (yea, not working on this now, I found you through the internet rabbit hole)

How do I change a/c from C* to F* on Ford F350 6.7 POS Powerstroke 2011? Thanks

Im going to have to do this just because they can't give us a cab filter

Nice, thanks for the ride. Just checked out the channel: czcams.com/users/TieRodGarage

Very cool, love that truck!!

Fantastic Video! I purchased an Espar engine heater to install on my 2016 F350 Powerstroke and this video is a great resource to know where to tap into the heater hose. Have you ever installed an Espar heater or know of someone that has installed one on a powerstroke?

Subbed!! Cool channel name 😎

Good job! It’s awesome watching you machine things! Glad you’re sharing your talent with others!

Nice work Wes! We’re those aluminum or stainless?

You saying either side like you only have to take one side loose you mean on both sides ?

Is that a upr k member that you ar running if so how do you like it debating if I should grab one can see and real reviews on one

Oh man. I forgot we had crashed the car the week before this event at a local event.

Well done 👍 thanks for the tips!

Great job! Just curious where the blower motor resistor was located?

Would you know if this will help my problem My ac is stuck on cold both sides driver and passenger even when I move my temperature to 70°F it feels like I have it on low

Doing mine tomorrow. Now itll be easy. Thanks.

Great video, any idea where the cabin air temp sensor is located? Having issues where I only have low and high Temps no in-between. Thanks

Do you have to disable airbags?

Once the dash is pulled back and resting on seat can you get to the evaporator "cover lid" to blow it out with air from inside the truck?

Why is the evap even leaking ? because ford using shit parts . way to go ford . Im so disgusted with these newer fords They make everything so difficult to work on ..good way to keep your customers .idiots .

I just done this job put it all back together clipped all the wires back together and now the alarm system don't let me start the truck do you know it fixed to that

Thanks for this video, just paid $300 for 2 valve core from the shop. 2 dats later took it back fir no AC, got estimates fir $1700 to replace condenser , evaporator, expansion valve and o rings kit. Check online fir parts which total $200. Your video will be saving me over $1000. Thank you!

Thankyou

Cool cool cool

I see that something restrictive may or may not be “deleted” lol

Mine has a center console and still have truble taking the dash off