Cars N CAD
Cars N CAD
  • 13
  • 4 752
Subaru WRX Upgrade: DIY CNC Billet Aluminum Sway Bar End Links
this is the second time I've replaced a broken OEM plastic end link! no more!
Were making our own! out of billet aluminum with poly bushings!
below ill link to the materials used. these are affiliate links and i will earn a small commission for you using them but it cost you nothing extra.
poly resin- amzn.to/3z83wmy
bushing sleeves- amzn.to/3XtKhx7 amzn.to/3XxK63U
aluminum bar stock- amzn.to/4edXSOM
printer- amzn.to/3zaPlx8
cnc- amzn.to/4gap9mR
makita router- amzn.to/3XfMP0H
zhlédnutí: 7

Video

What I learned when making my own carbon fiber parts
zhlédnutí 177Před 14 dny
this is my first time trying to make parts out of carbon fiber! I share what worked and what didn't music- Electro House - Lesfm Instrumental Deep House - hasenchat materials used: carbon fiber and resin- amzn.to/4cGYv2f mold release wax- amzn.to/4dTgNhB mold release gel- amzn.to/3z0jU8w cellophane tape- amzn.to/3yTdVSW vacuum bags- amzn.to/3T5ULAm
Carbon Fiber Car Parts Step-by-Step Mold Making (Mistakes Were Made!)
zhlédnutí 536Před měsícem
gel coat- amzn.to/4c70VXx partall #2 mold release paste- amzn.to/4fvyENl fiberglass matt- amzn.to/4d6deod carbon fiber with resin (kit)-amzn.to/4d2HdgY epoxy resin (resin only)- amzn.to/3WrXhla pva mold release gel- amzn.to/3Wvur3d scale for measuring resin- amzn.to/3LM99cL shears- amzn.to/46sAevg paper cups- amzn.to/3WpAeYl paint brushes- amzn.to/3LOX06S
Stop buying Creality Ender 3's!!
zhlédnutí 2,3KPřed měsícem
you get so much more value for your money if you buy something newer with more features vs. buying an older model and upgrading it! Ender 3 v2 neo- amzn.to/3W0dePe Ender 3 max neo- amzn.to/3y2iSbA Creality CR-M4- amzn.to/4cY3yMd Creality K1 max- amzn.to/3xTiQCV my 3d printer build- ender3- amzn.to/3VVTzjA ender extender 300x300- enderextender.com/collections/ender-3-v2-kits/products/ender-exten...
Fire-Breathing Supra: Mastering 2-Step and Rolling Launch Control!
zhlédnutí 43Před měsícem
In this video i setup my supra to do iconic supra things! 2- step launch control, rolling launch control, as well as set up inputs for future mods. parts and tools used: crimp connectors and heat shrink- amzn.to/463z7BP crimp tool- amzn.to/462NuX0 wire strippers- amzn.to/4cVJDNM
Upgrade Your Car’s Look on a Budget: Color-Matched Air Dam Installation
zhlédnutí 45Před měsícem
this is probably the cheapest way to color match car body parts assorted wet/dry sandpaper- amzn.to/3ztjzLv primer- amzn.to/4cuzjfT rivnut tool- amzn.to/45QdWDa polishing compound- amzn.to/3zvGFRI
The Ultimate Jeep Liberty KJ Window Fix That Lasts Forever!
zhlédnutí 76Před 2 měsíci
I am so sick of fixing window regulators, that i decided to do something about it! @ericinventor cnc video- czcams.com/video/w26DHMccicE/video.htmlsi=7y9f6KHuVsrGoivm regulator upgrade/repair kit- amzn.to/4c2Qkxn 3018 desktop cnc- amzn.to/4b79PUj Makita router- amzn.to/4c2wYZz aluminum bar stock- amzn.to/3VMzVHO measuring caliper- amzn.to/4c1jFZp
Custom Car Mats DIY: Quick & Easy Tutorial
zhlédnutí 128Před 2 měsíci
thanks for watching here is the link to the rubber mat i used. The carpet was just an indoor/outdoor carpet from home depot. rubber mat- www.albrightssupply.com/nibbed-back-rubber-mat-36-rubmatnib 3m adhesive spray- amzn.to/3RZnwxV tpu filament- amzn.to/4byEBWz
Installing a standalone without a dyno
zhlédnutí 306Před 2 měsíci
this particular process works for most obd1 Toyota vehicles. toyocom users- groups/1505898572959292 toyocom buy/sell- groups/1711148342392785 website to purchase when inventory becomes available- zf-scantools.com/
Welcome to Cars N CAD
zhlédnutí 21Před 2 měsíci
just a quick video to introduce myself and my new channel thanks for watching!

Komentáře

  • @DriftyBits
    @DriftyBits Před dnem

    Pretty slick!

  • @mannyperez9723
    @mannyperez9723 Před 2 dny

    You had air in the syringe.

    • @CARS-N-CAD
      @CARS-N-CAD Před 2 dny

      I know, while I was editing the video I was thinking why didn't my dumb ass just suck it up with the plunger? 🤣 but I included it anyways cuz I don't want my videos to seem perfect and fake... I make mistakes just like everyone else

  • @drrock5356
    @drrock5356 Před 2 dny

    Pretty good for your first attempts! Question: How would you have made the molds, if the 3D scan data turned out good? 3D Print? CNC Router/Machine?

    • @CARS-N-CAD
      @CARS-N-CAD Před 2 dny

      @drrock5356 I would've 3d printed the mold with petg, from the research I did it's pretty chemical resistant and the resin won't bond to it. And when you do your final coat of resin on the finished carbon fiber part it gets rid of layer lines

    • @drrock5356
      @drrock5356 Před 2 dny

      @@CARS-N-CAD I 3D printed a PETG mold for compression molding chopped carbon fiber tow, and the release agent I used acted instead as an adhesion promoter. I had to chisel the PETG away from the part.

    • @CARS-N-CAD
      @CARS-N-CAD Před dnem

      Good to know maybe I'll have to experiment

    • @drrock5356
      @drrock5356 Před dnem

      @@CARS-N-CAD I won't mention the brand, but stay away from release agents meant for metal molds/surfaces, which can be found in the "fine print" on the rear label.

  • @JonMorley1
    @JonMorley1 Před 3 dny

    Try dabbing the resin on instead of brushing, this will ensure the resin penetrates all of the glass and not just the surface

    • @CARS-N-CAD
      @CARS-N-CAD Před 2 dny

      @JonMorley1 yeah I learned dabbing with the flat side of the brush worked best for me, my biggest problem was my glass mat was way too thick and heavy for what I was trying to do... shredding the glass mat into tow fibers helped a ton

    • @JonMorley1
      @JonMorley1 Před 2 dny

      @@CARS-N-CAD 100gsm for first layer would definitely have have helped. Final piece looked good though

  • @tonyreitinger4364
    @tonyreitinger4364 Před 6 dny

    The newest ones are BMW's. NOT REAL SUPRA'S.

    • @CARS-N-CAD
      @CARS-N-CAD Před 5 dny

      I agree with you... but by that logic, it's like saying anything with a JZ is a Yamaha... toyota has a long history of collaborating with other companies on R&D. And while it might not be suited to everyone's taste, I'm glad they were able to bring it to market... personally, imo bmw uses too much engine plastic and I'm not a big fan of direct injection

  • @justinmatlock9483
    @justinmatlock9483 Před 6 dny

    That was a good turnout. I had fun. Especially the party button

  • @jasonruch3529
    @jasonruch3529 Před 10 dny

    Karb on fiba😂😂😂

  • @DriftyBits
    @DriftyBits Před 14 dny

    That’s killer. Been loving the updates on the “side” lol

    • @CARS-N-CAD
      @CARS-N-CAD Před 14 dny

      I just get excited I can't keep secrets lol

    • @DriftyBits
      @DriftyBits Před 14 dny

      @@CARS-N-CAD I think it's killer! It's almost like a "members club" lol 😆

  • @official_sil80
    @official_sil80 Před 17 dny

    wow i liked this it’s hard to find 2step videos on emublack

  • @unclerichard6729
    @unclerichard6729 Před měsícem

    Making such a poorly titled, solely opinionated video also is not a good idea.

  • @802Garage
    @802Garage Před měsícem

    For anyone new to 3D printing who just wants something that works, the A1 Mini makes way more sense for the money and vs any Ender 3 machine in the lineup honestly. I'm not even a Bambu Lab fanboy. For someone wanting to get into more serious filament printing and especially for stuff like automotive prints, the Q1 Pro by Qidi Tech is incredibly capable for the money and would be my go to recommendation. Get an Ender 3 only if it's $100 or less and you want to learn how to mod it, even though they can of course print fine stock. The Ender 3 V3 SE and KE just aren't worth the money vs an A1 Mini. The Ender 3 V3 also isn't worth it vs the A1 regular or stepping up to a Q1 Pro.

  • @BagelmanSupreme
    @BagelmanSupreme Před měsícem

    my old Ender 3v1 has a microswiss direct drive and a glass bed - first thing I got for it after I printed a few cubes. It's been cranking out prints no questions asked since 2019 and honestly it's one of my favorite machines. Sure I use my Bambu more, but that old thing just won't quit and it's fun watching it trundle along. Never really had much issue with it (I print PETG, so I don't need to lather my bed in glue or anything, gross!). For 150 bucks new, I think I've got my money's worth!

  • @XNLFutureTechnologies
    @XNLFutureTechnologies Před měsícem

    I do agree to SOME extend that when buying new there are better and MUCH faster options on the market. However the old 'classic Ender 3' is still a strong and reliable machine, when configured properly and tweaked a bit can deliver very high precision for low cost. I'm running several of them for high detail parts (not just 'trinkets'), and they are still going strong years after we got them. Do have to admit that two of them are HEAVILY modified (till the point you can't even call them an Ender 3 anymore 🤣(aside from their frame). Those have (own) custom designed boards, touchscreen interface (own custom software for my industrial use and not some octoprint stuff) and more of the alike. But also the several other more basic Ender 3's we're still using (aside from using a microswiss hot end and my own adapted marlin firmware) still do a GREAT job in delivering high quality prints. HOWEVER, they are definitely not as fast as an CR-10-SE for example (which can peak at around 600mm/s vs the default Ender 3's with around 60mm/s). But then again they do go for double the price though 🤷‍♀ If someone would ask me which type of printer for not too much money I would recommend? I would then for example say a CR-10-SE, not to expensive, HIGH speed printer (does large prints in about 12 hours where the default Ender 3 would take about 2 DAYS and 9 hours for the same print). But if they are on a very tight budget and really want to get into 3D printing? Then the Ender 3 (V1) still isn't a bad choice to be honest in my opinion. It's a very decent printer to get started, to learn how to properly level your machines, how the mechanics work and more of the a like. And especially second hand they are "practically free" these days😊 So I do agree (in most cases/situations) that you should not buy an Ender 3 V1 brand new anymore in 2024, but second hand or as very low budget starter it still one of the best ones to go for in my opinion. Definitely A LOT better than some of the other cheap 'fire hazard options' that are out there (although a lot less these days luckily) 😊

  • @KITDFOHS
    @KITDFOHS Před měsícem

    The only "upgrade" im doing for my OG ender 3 pro will be turning it into a wire EDM. Or using the parts to build a newer more modern printer.

  • @calinnilie
    @calinnilie Před měsícem

    Got one for myself in 2020 as I wanted something really cheap, and at the time it was a great machine to tinker on. In 2024 there is no reason to get an Ender anymore, thankfully.

  • @coalachaos6486
    @coalachaos6486 Před měsícem

    I made some updates on mine... Im now printing with 450mm/s on my old ender 3 v2. Its awsome. And its loud. Its like tuning an old vw beetle with a porsche engine 😏

    • @feynthefallen
      @feynthefallen Před měsícem

      My old boss owned a Beetle with a Porsche engine. That thing was WICKED. (Couldn't run it full torque of course, or the motor would have overtaken the chassis...)

    • @coalachaos6486
      @coalachaos6486 Před měsícem

      @@feynthefallen Exactly 😂 I think upgrading the Ender 3s is the same. Its just for fun, experimenting with structural limits, and being excited about it when it doesnt rip apart 😂

  • @BrunodeSouzaLino
    @BrunodeSouzaLino Před měsícem

    Meanwhile, some people somewhere want you to spend 5 grand on a certain 5 head printer which doesn't even solve its own problems, let alone the problems it claimed to solve.

  • @feynthefallen
    @feynthefallen Před měsícem

    Ok, a few MAJOR points if I may: 1st, and most important: an entry-level machine like the Ender3 was never intended or built to print with things like Nylon or PC and is thoroughly unsuitable for the task. As a matter of fact, due to the hotend construction Creality uses, where the PTFE bowden tube reaches all the way down into the nozzle, that is actually quite dangerous, because it exposes you to dangerous fumes from the overheated PTFE. That can cause a condition known as "Teflon Flu" which can be deadly. 2nd, Ender 3 have been outfitted with a removable flexible PEI bed for AGES now. 3rd, the current Ender3 boards feature a 32-bit ARM SoC, which is PLENTY fast enough to run any cartesian in the world, heck, it would even be fast enough to run any DELTA out there. For comparison, I've run Deltas on Atmegas for years. There simply is nothing in the processing a cartesian printer has to do that would make a 32-bit arm even get out of breath. 4th, while Octoprint is an useful upgrade for a printer ecosystem, the Ender3 with its Marlin FW will happily print from an SD card any day. The only reservation about the current generation of boards I have is that they never included an USB host connection for regular usb sticks. 5th, The Ender3 is an entry level machine for hobbyists. If you aim to print professionally, get a professional-level printer and pay professional-level money. It's unprofessional of you to bash it because you are using it in ways it was never intended to be used. Conclusion: It's a tool. It does the job it was built to do. It's no more obsolete than c-spanners in a world that has ratcheting ring spanners. People should buy a better, more advanced one when I need it, not because it's available. So if YOU (like me) are one of the "poor souls" that have one, it's a good little machine, keep it and upgrade it piecemeal, but buy the good, well-fitting upgrades provided directly by Creality. Buy a better one when and only when you want to do things it can't do.

    • @CzKovu
      @CzKovu Před měsícem

      I totally agree with you

  • @lnfotron
    @lnfotron Před měsícem

    bro just casually rick rolls everyone lmao

  • @joshfixall7938
    @joshfixall7938 Před měsícem

    Ender 3 v3 se is the bee's knees and I don't wanna hear any complaints lmfao I never level the bed idgaf and it takes Tpu, nylon, petg, asa, abs, you name it... Only complaint is I personally run it a bit slow to preserve as much print quality as possible - most of my prints are over night

    • @JesseR162
      @JesseR162 Před měsícem

      My ender 3 v3 SE is a solid workhorse. Hasn't let me down yet. It just keeps going!

  • @seekertosecrets7618
    @seekertosecrets7618 Před měsícem

    1:17 Hate that song. Moving on. Ender Extender... I think I ordered from that business for a replacement Z rod.

    • @CARS-N-CAD
      @CARS-N-CAD Před měsícem

      @seekertosecrets7618 I got their 300mm kit on one of my printers

  • @82Heniu82
    @82Heniu82 Před měsícem

    I am running Ender 3 Max, and honestly, i am running on stock build. I am happy as I can be. Honestly, the idea behind Enders is price IMHO. You can buy base and then, if needed, expand and add more stuff to it. Or just go and get one of more expensive models with all the fancy things on it already...

    • @CARS-N-CAD
      @CARS-N-CAD Před měsícem

      @82Heniu82 yeah my big ender 3 that I built is basically a ender 3 max neo, when you compare the specs... but if you add up the cost of the build it's almost 2x the price of just buying one

  • @davidl6354
    @davidl6354 Před měsícem

    I just bought a bambu labs a1 mini after seeing my ender 3 v2 collecting dust over the years. I did a full linear rail upgrade and it never worked and got scammed by a company that never sent the rail and never got my money back. Just for the cost of the linear rails alone o could have bought another a1 mini

    • @CARS-N-CAD
      @CARS-N-CAD Před měsícem

      I wanna do linear bearing blocks on one of mine, I think it would be fun to see just how fast I can make it go without too much vibration making it's way into the print

  • @droney_baloney
    @droney_baloney Před měsícem

    yeah but you can buy base model OG ender 3's on marketplace all day for 50 bucks. if you're just starting out, like to tinker and don't mind spending the time and a few extra dollars, refurbing a lightly used marketplace find might be worth it. I have a few bed slingers and my ender 3, while heavily modified is still my most reliable printer.

    • @CARS-N-CAD
      @CARS-N-CAD Před měsícem

      @droney_baloney 50-100 bucks is the perfect price point for a base ender 3 for the features (or lack there of) it offers... don't get me wrong I love tinkering with mine, I'm my video I was just speaking about value per dollar

    • @lassikinnunen
      @lassikinnunen Před měsícem

      Base ender is under half of an a1 NEW now. For americans the price difference doesn't matter that much though.

    • @XNLFutureTechnologies
      @XNLFutureTechnologies Před měsícem

      @@CARS-N-CAD Yeah that's kinda what I was assuming, hence my long and extensive reply, but this reply of you kinda confirms what I was thinking 😊 Indeed brand new the value per dollar (+ the REQUIRED upgrades to make it a fully suitable 3D printer) isn't "worth it" in most cases. Obviously there are still exceptions to this rule, but the 50-100 bucks is almost a 'no-brainer' imo, especially considering the still solid quality of the Ender 3 "Classic" 😊

    • @Todestelzer
      @Todestelzer Před měsícem

      I would never recommend a cheap printer for someone starting printing. Start with a Bambu. You don’t have to suffer from bad hard- and software anymore in the consumer market. Only do it when you have someone how know how to print and can help you.

    • @XNLFutureTechnologies
      @XNLFutureTechnologies Před měsícem

      @@Todestelzer @Todestelzer Also depends on where you're coming from I guess (as in field of interest and what your target is). My myself coming from the DIY electronics and 3D printing area, I would in turn not quickly recommend a Bambu for my group of friends, colleagues and/or audience due to the fact there is basically nothing you can do/modify with those printers yourself. They are not open-source and are taking more of the 'Apple Approach' amongst 3D printers. And neither would you really learn about the technique about 3D printers that way. But do note that this is because we/our 'group of people' like to be able to be in full control, customize our own firmware, adapt boards for speciffic needs for example and more of the alike (it's NOT a 'hate comment' against Bambu in general so don't get me wrong here please😉) However it it's just some one that ONLY wants to 3D print and doesn't care about the technique (internally), modifying it in the future etc, A Bambu might indeed be more suitable for them though😊. Less hassle and just made as 'ready to use consumer product' which require little to no prior knowledge to 3D printing 😊 I Personally would then still recommend a Creality CR-10-SE for example, but that's just a personal preference though😊. Nothing wrong with those printers in terms of hardware and software, VERY easy to "assemble" (basically can't even call it assemble haha), rather 'large' build volume and SUPER FAST printing with good results out of the box 😊 But to be honest the Bambu Lab A1 is also a very capable printer and even multi color support for those who don't care about the open-source and modifiability of their printer 😊

  • @donnyinalaska
    @donnyinalaska Před měsícem

    I bought the CR-10S 4 years ago... Has been nothing but a boat anchor. Now I did buy the new Bambu X1 Carbon a week ago, and man I tell ya, what a major difference. No complaints at all...

    • @CARS-N-CAD
      @CARS-N-CAD Před měsícem

      @@donnyinalaska I've heard nothing but good things about it, but I just haven't had a need to invest in a new setup

  • @MFEeee
    @MFEeee Před měsícem

    I got an original ender 3 as a gift and since then added: -Glass Buildplate -Dual Z Axis -Direct Drive -BTT Motherboard -Autobed Leveling Love my printer. I’d get an ender 5 and convert to corexy if I wasn’t already making a markforged clone

  • @DriftyBits
    @DriftyBits Před měsícem

    Well, i think thats the printer i have. Lol lol i actually have no clue. 😢

    • @CARS-N-CAD
      @CARS-N-CAD Před měsícem

      They aren't bad printers, they are just objectively bad value for the money spent.

  • @mannyperez9723
    @mannyperez9723 Před měsícem

    Those crimp connectors have become my fave to use as well. Good job dude!!

    • @CARS-N-CAD
      @CARS-N-CAD Před měsícem

      yeah i was trolling a bit with those solder shrink tubes 🤣 thanks man

  • @toppdog2000
    @toppdog2000 Před 2 měsíci

    Great video. Nobody seems to be offering a similar metal replacement for the rear windows for the 2002-2005's - only plastic ones. you may have found a niche market. I know I need one, LOL

  • @EuropeanAutoRepair
    @EuropeanAutoRepair Před 2 měsíci

    Good info! Thanks

  • @alexlongpre4527
    @alexlongpre4527 Před 2 měsíci

    You car sounds awesome 👍

  • @justinmatlock9483
    @justinmatlock9483 Před 2 měsíci

    Lol love that. That was a good induction. And on point with the puns

  • @BjornFSE
    @BjornFSE Před 2 měsíci

    Subbing for the JDM MK3 Supra. It's a plus that you're on EMU black I would assume from the other videos. I'm on Black as well, JZA80

    • @CARS-N-CAD
      @CARS-N-CAD Před 2 měsíci

      thanks for the support, its my baby. I've had it for 7 or 8 years and I'm just starting to play with the 1jz. ill be sure to make more emu content. I've been itching to add boost control and launch once i know the tune is solid

    • @justinmatlock9483
      @justinmatlock9483 Před 2 měsíci

      ​@CARS-N-CAD but the wife might not like the bill. . . . . 😅

  • @BjornFSE
    @BjornFSE Před 2 měsíci

    Interesting concept. This would be good for building a base spark/ignition timing map well fuel too if it could log afr. Can see where it would help get stock baseline of the oem ecu tune to then later help with setting up your base map and interpolating between those cells logged. sweet concept, still would require more street tuning & logging for knock or other parameters but good.

    • @CARS-N-CAD
      @CARS-N-CAD Před 2 měsíci

      that's basically what i did. got the ignition mapped out as complete as i could. then interpolated the missing cells. and then I removed a degree or two for a safety margin. i still had to do some street tuning for fuel. still not at 100% i need to dial in little stuff like IAT correction, but its a solid starting point!

  • @BjornFSE
    @BjornFSE Před 2 měsíci

    nice.