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@@diegoalvarado1062 to spray 1 coat of paint on siding and soffits, on this side of the house after set up and everything, was 33 minutes. That included going back to the sprayer to "prime" sprayer and refill bucket. To completely paint the whole home's exterior siding, trim (2 coats), and stained tongue and groove soffits in front... was 5 - 6 days ~ 38 man hours.

@@JUSTJAMIE82 rarely. If there's peeling, there's indication of something that went wrong or too rushed

@@smcgov primed trim gets oversprayed with the main color, then brushed and/or rolled over.

Paint peeling happens rarely. There are a few factors involved if and when that happens... if substrate like drywall etc was too cold, damp, or too hot when products were applied. If the primer was worked into the surface on applicable surfaces... same with topcoats. Quality of products, product application timing, tape removal timing, environment or humidity when pulling tape, type of tape etc. in general, peeling paint is indicative of a problem somewhere and can be attributed to products with poor adhesion, poor prep and cleaning, non ideal environment, or ineffective procedures.

@@350zsage that is a 36' ladder

@@billgoforth7426 thanks, this is an orange peel texture and a Spec home with a short deadline. I've done level 5 only once, and there are a few different methods to accomplish level 5, but it always requires applying a leveling skim coat or a leveling spray mud.. so this alone wouldn't work with level 5, especially with thst 3/4" nap we used.

@@XCPainter I had the same question any tips on avoiding flashing on a level 5 finish ?

@@jesserosenbloom1311 on these homes, and most, we caulked to wall, let dry overnight, paint caulking the wall color before we masked off walls.

ahhh interesting ok that makes sense. i usually paint walls, put floor down, then do trim and base board. works great except it's a pain doing the trim. i'm trying this way u show in the video now tho!

@@shawnderment7582 I would find either a Renner distributor and Rep, or Envirolak, Centurion, Icro etc... there are a lot of products available for your parameters needed. Some of those paints are thicker, and tougher than regular paint so it an bridge over onto masking tape at edges, after primer and paint.. Just don't go too heavy or renew masking if necessary

@@shawnderment7582 The reps can suggest a product that is just right with your equipment, experience and situation.. Just give them a call. Fine Finish Supply I'm Texas is a great company

@@aubreyt8446 I leave the weather stripping pulled back over night so the paint can cure. I unmask it the next day. There are some paints that may remain more tacky after cure. I just painted and home, garage, and garage door and used this technique but didn't use any spray adhesive and it still worked.

@@XCPainter thanks for your reply, I’m about to do the same thing- no adhesive spray. My garage is metal so I’m doing a metal primer first and letting it dry overnight before I do the top coat. Sherwin Williams said it should be fine and shouldn’t stick to the weather stripping. I’m so relieved because it was going to look terrible with the edges unpainted.

@@klaus3794 thank you

@@shae937 thanks for asking. The walls get painted 1st though, then masked over

@@user-ow6pd3yr4g the builders, architects, paint manufacturers, and even the siding manufacturer, make the specs on these spec home developments, not the employees of the sub contractors.

I wouldn't like using water-based primer for mdf... but if I had to use it, I suppose I'd talk with guys who sell envirolak or renner. I'd only use Cabinet Coat on built ins if the project just couldn't justify ordering up higher quality like Renner, Envirolak, centurion, etc I've only used a few Renner products (643 primer, 765 top coats) so more to experience with them.

@@XCPainter thanks

It does coat the sides of boards if they have standard gaps and if you use good brushing technique. Underside of the deck... any product or application can drip if you're coating the gaps and putting enough stain on to saturate and move around. If there's important items under the deck, I can cover them or the covrr the ground.

@@XCPainter At 2:10 I Can Clearly see the only Stain in the gaps at are the excess Drips/Runs.

​​@@theschreckster4300for one, did you notice I had JUST gotten started, and I was using a pole one with only one hand while I recorded with camera phone in my other hand? You didn't see any missed spots anyways and I'll gaurantee then got coated I've used these Deck Bosses for years now and they work like a champ.

Thanks. Benjamin Moore branded Fresh Start oil, general purpose oil would be good. Advance doesn't have the best adhesion, it's okay. With the oil primer, it would very best to make sure it's gassed off and cured before sanding, and even more before Advance goes on.

@XCPainter Thanks. I've been using Stix and Advance until I realized I should be using an oil primer on mdf. Any recommendations for a water-based finish for mdf builtins? I heard people use scuffx or Command also. 99% of my customers request BM colors. I have a Graco gx19 so not comfortable running any crazy solvents through there yet

@@joseph7105 honestly I'd look into a better coating for built ins... maybe Renner, Enviolak, or Centurion products ... you can search for distributors and they can help with the details and usage of their products.

@@XCPainter yeah I heard of those. Maybe I will just go for it now that I've switched to spraying. Thanks again

Thanks for asking. These metal doors probably won't swell at the bottom like wood does. There are 4 doors on this house and garage to paint red. There's no way I would pull 4 exterior doors off an occupied home to paint 2 sides of the doors. (Homeowners and pet dog at home.) The hinges on 3 doors are old, 1 is newer... the OLD hinge pins are not going to pull easy if at all, and would be a big hassle trying to get them lined up and installed after being freshly painted. If anything I'd pull the screws and hinges, not pins. Also, there is no yard space to even spray doors off the jamb, let alone 4 of them... the weather is windy here, sometimes even sprinkling or downpouring. If I get rained on, I can pack up tools and leave but not if there's doors sitting on sawhorses on this tiny property that need to be hung again. Those are some of the reasons.

Understood. I'm a carpenter, so duh to me. You do nice work. Now go home and get your shine box.😁

Oh I know, I know.. I was going for a spray finish, red is more of a hassle to cut door heels by brush and around hinges. The other 3 doors are 6 panels and with window trim, and sun was on the south side door so I'd rather spray each coat in about 15 - 30 seconds... so spray job it is.

These are Allpro labeled but are made by Axus Decor

Spraying with a Graco 490, 310 tip on this one

thank you...

Thanks Luis

Thanks

Now you're ready to paint doors

@@XCPainter I'm gonna be painting so many door 😎😎😎🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪

Sure, what's going on?

With a repaint like this, nice and clean and furnished, rolling is preferred for drywall ceilings and walls. For New construction, usually spraying is the way to go.

@XCPainter thx for your reply, you havent uploaded in 2yrs, you were doing a great job on your videos, btw. Hope you come back. Thx again

@@ZER0o10 thanks I'll try to make that happen

The tape should not peel the paint off on good conditions and when the underlying coatings were done correctly. If paint peels, it's an indicator of a previous issue, even if it's as small as the pva/primer adhesion, top coat adhesion factor, etc In these spray situations, the interiors can get very humid, and the mud underneath everything can still absorb that moisture and cause peeling. It's better to air out the interior and let humidity go away/dry before pulling tape.

I do that all the time too brother, not always better... rarely actually

Little pratice, and yeah the 40's are so heavy! In this video, I only scooted the top or bottom over, one at a time instead of lifting the top away from wall and carrying it.

Thanks for the feedback. On the two projects shown in this video, both were new construction with no trim installed... very easy to spray(and backroll) walls at that point. The project shown with beige walls, was a 3 story with orange peel texture, 2 stairwells etc, so spraying primer and topcoats on all surfaces was pretty necessary. 2 guys sprayed and backrolled the 3 storys worth of wall space in 2 hours which would have taken a week if we brushed and rolled it all. The project with the

Have fun out there and be safe

Thanks. I used a 517 tip that day, which is about the largest size anyone would use... due to the large walls and nothing around to overspray. 517 puts out a good amount of paint so you have to be good with spraying to avoid piling it up or leaving spray pattern marks. A 515 is about the perfect size to spray many exteriors, hardiplank, lap siding, and a smaller size can be utilized as well.

I appreciate the tip! Thank you

Thank You!