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Chris Jones
Registrace 12. 01. 2007
First (partial) charge!
I just confirmed the bike charges like it's supposed to - the CAN Charge gizmo lets me reduce the charging power down to 2.5 kW (4 amps at 600 V DC) and it's working a treat. I won't take it all the way up to full pack voltage as the battery is not yet managed, but it's good to know it works!
(no afternoon rides, sorry).
(no afternoon rides, sorry).
zhlédnutí: 90
Video
Firing up Voltron with it's new battery!
zhlédnutí 142Před 6 měsíci
After months of weekends and evenings working on the new battery pack, the bike fired up like it was supposed to. One of the cooling fans was fouling on a wire somewhere, so I fixed that too. You can see I clear a path in case things went pear shaped, but thankfully, pre-charge and discharge work fine. Seems the ammeter isn't working though. No idea why. The chain was a bit noisy as it's probab...
Voltron's new (4.0) battery pack drops in!
zhlédnutí 68Před 6 měsíci
The new battery is nearly ready! It gets lowered into the bike with a hoist we've used extensively through the project. As this battery is bigger in a few key dimensions, it's a tight fit in the aluminium tray at the base of the cradle. Took some gentle persuasion, but the 77.5 kg, 12.5 kWh battery is now in the bike. Next video... Fire-up!
LV wiring loom for Voltron Evo's new battery pack
zhlédnutí 75Před 7 měsíci
It's a bit of a complicated show, but basically the control of the pre-charge and main contactor, as well as the charge contactor and the cooling fans are powered by a 12 V supply. There's a diode arrangement to ensure the fans come on whenever the main contactor is closed, or, whenever the charge lead is plugged in. The HVILs work by ensuring power is not available if the plug is not installed...
CAN-Charge from EV Power
zhlédnutí 58Před 9 měsíci
Shout out to @ev-power for the CAN-Charge gizmo which lets me set the voltage and current limits of any compatible CAN-controlled charger. In this case I'm charging a 28s6p LiPo battery (103 V Nominal, 117 V fully charged) and about 30 Ah. Apologies for the crap all over my workbench!
Installing capture plates on a battery pack.
zhlédnutí 86Před 10 měsíci
This has to be one of the more satisfying aspects of building a cylindrical-cell based battery pack. 4 modules of 3 kWh each, using Molicell P42A (21700) cells. Perhaps the greatest benefit with cylindrical cells is the fact they are dimensionally stable. Pouch cells vary enormously from one batch to the next, so you can't build your enclosure until you've built the battery pack.
Spot welding a nickel sandwich
zhlédnutí 2KPřed rokem
This technique will help with nickel tab connections required to pass serious currents. And it's surprisingly simple!
Copper tape helps nickel tabs carry more current!*
zhlédnutí 172Před rokem
* dodgy AF, but the results are clear - a burst of 3 seconds at over 100 A from this Molicell P42A cell. It might be a pain in the arse to build a battery pack this way, but if it works...?
Capacity testing LFP cells
zhlédnutí 53Před rokem
This is a new battery destined for the TAFE off-grid EV charger. The GBS cells we have installed at the moment were a mixed bag of old and very old cells, so it's hardly a surprise some of them are bombing out. Few bulgy cells in there too. Luckily Leon at Lithium-Power was able to supply me with some 100 Ah GFB cells which are so far up to the task.
MPP Solar 11 kW inverter F90 error
zhlédnutí 6KPřed rokem
Me trying to re-flash the inverter using a configuration provided thanks to Coulomb on the AEVA forum.
Converted Honda Prelude battery cooling system installation
zhlédnutí 103Před rokem
This video documents the process of adding a cooling system to the (new) battery of the Honda Prelude I converted for a friend. The first battery used pouch cells, and worked great until one day the coolant leaked into the battery causing it to fail. I built a new pack using Panasonic 18650 cells as four blocks of 23s24p and it's been working great, but a cooling plate was never added until now...
Temperature check on the Prelude battery cooling system
zhlédnutí 38Před rokem
As you all know, the first Prelude battery pack with liquid cooling system worked fantastically, until one day it didn't (it leaked coolant which compromised the battery, so I had to build another one). The new battery pack is made from 18650 cells as four blocks of 24s23p, and these blocks are stacked in the battery box where the fuel tank used to be. I was motivated to check the temperature o...
Gazelle Chamonix electrified!
zhlédnutí 205Před 2 lety
For a bike that was designed for Dutch flatlands, it's made for an interesting eBike conversion. An incredibly comfortable bike, yet pretty under-braked and rather lossy drivetrain, the new electrified version sports a new rear disc brake but currently retains the original roller brake on the front. Motor has regen braking (not yet enabled) but the current stopping power is OK if you're prepare...
Gazelle eBike retrofit
zhlédnutí 614Před 2 lety
I'm converting my wife's Gazelle Chamonix Pure to electric, but cause we live in the hills it needs a bit of grunt. The frock motor will do the job, but the bike itself seems to be the limitation - it was a 7 speed gear hub with a single chainring and a whole bunch of other 'unique' features typical of a Dutch bike (like being really draggy and only suited to flat ground), but we're making prog...
Neutralising H2SO4/Co2+ solution with NaOH
zhlédnutí 90Před 2 lety
Neutralising H2SO4/Co2 solution with NaOH
Neutralising peroxide / H2SO4 / Cobalt extract solution with NaOH.
zhlédnutí 55Před 2 lety
Neutralising peroxide / H2SO4 / Cobalt extract solution with NaOH.
Welding nickel strips to nickel plated aluminium busbars
zhlédnutí 2,8KPřed 3 lety
Welding nickel strips to nickel plated aluminium busbars
Spot welding nickel tabs to nickel plated aluminium
zhlédnutí 1,8KPřed 3 lety
Spot welding nickel tabs to nickel plated aluminium
Battery cooling on the Electric Prelude
zhlédnutí 204Před 4 lety
Battery cooling on the Electric Prelude
The Electric Prelude - Aircon installed
zhlédnutí 319Před 4 lety
The Electric Prelude - Aircon installed
A sunny day's drive in the electric Prelude
zhlédnutí 681Před 4 lety
A sunny day's drive in the electric Prelude
What is thickness of copper strip and nicklel there?
0.15 mm nickel, 0.07 mm copper.
Good working sir
Maybe its not getting hotter because the larger copper where you solder is the one absorbing all the current
I did the exact same test but with a single piece of nickel, and the nickel glowed white hot at 30 amps. So the copper was definitely taking the bulk of the current.
@@jonescg can you help me build what is the right thickness of copper and nickel for a 100 amps of my 22S10P batteries. Thanks
@@jobmariano348 I used 0.15 mm nickel and 0.075 mm copper. This will pass 100 amps PER CELL for approximately 5 seconds. So potentially 1000 amps for your 22s pack. It will sag pretty bad at this rate, and the cells will start to get quite hot, but the conductors will manage such a high discharge rate.
Mpo 11kva inverter the natural send current to the ground what is the problem
Hello thank you i need yuor whatsapp number
Got the same code on my sungold 48v inverters. I had them sent back to have firmware update. My question. Will this continue to happen every couple months?
Hasn't come back yet, thankfully.
Is this spot weldee from ebay i saw one not sure if same
Sure is. Sunkko 709 or something.
Hello, thank you very much for the video. I have the same device and I get the same error. Can you send me the file in the usb flash disk? Or can you share the file by adding a link in the description? Thank you very much.
Sorry - each code is unique to the inverter. You need to contact MPP Solar and quote the inverter serial number and they will help you with the rest. My files and codes are of no use to you, unfortunately.
It lives !!
Good luck brother! Glad you got it working! Stay safe!
Hi Chris what motor are you running in Voltron?
It's an Evo-Electric AFM140-4. Avid bought the company, but Phi-Power also makes an equivalent machine.
Thanks for the update Chris!
Wicked cool! Great work!
Any chance for a ride
Just have to get the BMS and charger working and you can have a crack. I'll warn you - it's about as comfortable as a bear trap.
Ok
Hey mate.. where are you based? Keen to have a chat re the prelude if you’re ok
Based in Perth hills.
This is a good technique for using spot welders without industrial levels of power output to still be able to weld copper strip to cells. It works quite well, too. Because copper has such a low resistance, attempting to spot weld only copper strip to cells is quite difficult, because the resistance at the electrode tips is too low to generate the heat needed to make the weld. Using nickel strip, which has substantially more resistance, becomes far hotter at the electrode tips and it is this heat that welds both the nickel and copper strip to the cell. Very effective method for high current bus on battery packs.
That is one hefty contactor and fuse - can you share brands and part numbers?
Main Contactor is a Gigavac GX14BAB (350 A, 1000 V) and the charge contactor is a Tyco 100 A, 1000 V unit. Fuse is a placeholder at this stage - it's rated to 400 A, but 660 V DC. Fully charged the bike is 700 V, but I think a 660 V rated fuse should be OK in the absence of a decent alternative.
@@jonescg Thanks. That Gigavac contactor is a little hard to get at the moment!
Excellent stuff, worked like a charm! I was welding 1.6mm thick round tubes together end to end and I used this technique with 1.6mm rods at 38 - 40A. Great video, thanks very much!
have tried contacting "Peggy" from MPPSolar? :D
Hi mate, did you end up fixing it? I've got a site with 2x in parallel (not our install) and have had nothing but problems with them both. We've changed the comms boards and I've just changed the main board in one. It all worked sweet for about a week then started come up with a F90 fault. So sick of these inverters but need to repair for the customer.
Have you got in touch with MPP Solar? They will ask for the serial number and in exchange, give you instructions to reflash the board. If it's not a genuine inverter, they won't be able to help.
@@jonescg Yeah, been in contact with them the whole time, they warranted the coms cards and the main board already.
Sounds like they're doing all they can. In the end I found the original serial comms cable to do the re-flash and it worked - the USB method clearly didn't work. @@mattporter7120
Wish you had pointed the camera down onto the pack. Perhaps I missed an episode but what are these batteries for?
I'll be putting some more videos together, but the battery is a new long range pack for Voltron, the electric superbike. endless-sphere.com/sphere/threads/jonescgs-new-electric-racebike-build-thread.29916/page-55#post-1774976
@@jonescg Got it. I've been thinking along the same lines - long range, but for a treddly...at least it has two wheels.
What is the thickness of the copper and the nickel?
Copper is 0.07 mm thick amd the nickel is 0.15 mm thick.
@@jonescg did you use pure nickel or nickel plated steel? thanks
@@ktestable pure nickel, but honestly I don't think it makes any difference. The purpose of the nickel is to provide enough resistance so the contact points get super hot and fuse the copper below to the cell can. The copper is carrying the current, while the nickel is just there for bonding support.
It does make a difference for the reason you explained, Resistance. The nickel coated strip will have less resistance and that will make a Better weld because of it.@@jonescg
@@starcitizenmodding4436nickel coated steel actually has more resistance which is why it generates more heat
great stuff mate :)
Like that! I wonder if multiple sheets of copper spot welded together could be used as flexible bus bars for several hundred amps? Where did you get the copper tape?
Possibly, or just use two layers of this thin stuff. I should highlight though that my final termination method uses a 0.9 mm busplate with holes where these tabs are soldered, so the full current will be over 200 A, but managed easily by the copper plates (simulated here using 2 mm thick lumps of copper). The tape was available from any electronics shop - this from Altronics, but I think Jaycar sells it too.
@@jonescg Thanks.
Interesting technique. Thanks for sharing!
some great comments on this post., I have enjoyed reading them. It just goes to show that most home handymen know how difficult some of this stuff can be and appreciate the sharing of tips and knowledge
Thanx for taking the time to produce and post this video. I like using patio tubing on jobs and there are only so many things you can use brackets for. I will re-watch this a couple of times and start practising
Reflash the software with a laptop, is much better, from that sd card is not going to work properly.
Thanks, yes, I got it to work using the laptop and some commands from MPP Solar.
How to fix the malfunction F90
@@user-mm9gr3hf6j I ended up using the supplied cable and a laptop and reset the inverter using commands provided by MPP Solar directly.
I have the same problem, can you please describe how to fix it? or instructions? Axpert Max TWIN 11KW
If you have the serial number you can send it to MPP Solar and they will give you instructions on how to reset the serial code and clear the error.
It would be cool to know if one pole "blows" the arc and the other might attract it? Or is there no difference 🤔
That's absolutely what happens 🙂. Use the right hand rule to determine the direction of force.
@@jonescg yes I remember something about some DC switches and circuit breakers, using permanent magnets to blow the arc, to help extinguish it, or to force it into a arc splitter.🤔😉
I really enjoyed this video! You are late to the party - P r o m o S M!!!
Holy hell I forgot to create the second part! Again! It's been 5 years, but I have devised a system that works reasonably well for recovering the cobalt and copper. Read all about it here: forums.aeva.asn.au/viewtopic.php?p=88057#p88057 I'll put a video together this weekend.... PROMISE!
thanks 4 sharing. agree with your views...
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where did you purchase nickel plated aluminium? How did you cut it ? Waterjet?
Laser cut aluminium and had it nickel plated locally. Very expensive, and it still didn't weld all that great. Definitely recommend soldered copper instead.
the old welders are the best bro , mine is as old as the hills
well done!!, a buzz box and thin tubing are a bad combination. it's hard to get good results. the newer inverter dc welders make the job much easier. the can fine tune the amperage.
why not using one side material (plated with cooper) where PCB is made from, drill holes and solder nickel there, and spot weld nickel to batteries. Just question what nickel strips is needed to sustain 10A draw constantly from battery
Because 0.254 mm thick copper (typical for a PCB) isn't enough to take the current.
@@jonescg its 0.8mm (i found such pcb sheets)
@@milordas Nice - if it works then give it a go! I like the idea of keeping the whole assembly as low profile as possible, as you can use the top and bottom surfaces as a means to remove heat from the cells.
You need a smaller rod and/or lower amps, with 6013 give it more angle like 30 degrees so you can see your puddle and blow off slag, just keep your rod moving and you shouldn't blow holes. Cheers
Hello. I would like to do the same. How do you know, that the aluminium busbar is nickel - plated? My busbar isn’t nickel - plated. Do you think it works?
I don't really recommend this, really. One option might be to use 0.9 mm copper and solder the nickel tabs to the busbar. Far more reliable.
Thanks a lot for your kind reply, highly appreciated. I can only use the existing, pure E-grade Aluminum. Nickel plating is quite exotic here! Did you do more test runs to understand the feasibility of welding to pure Aluminum? Would be great to know that before I throw away 1000$ on welder and test setup.
@@julianungerer1905 I got it to work because the nickel plating provided enough resistance to cause localised superheating at the point of contact. The problem is, the nickel layer can be broken off easily. You would need a VERY big spot welder to weld aluminium to nickel. The aluminium simply soaks up all the heat, causing the weld site to be quite cold and pretty poor.
Ive just ordered my first stick welder. If my welds are half as good as yours ill be over the moon. Planning on building a workbench for my basement
1.6 mm is 16 guage not that thin at all. I weld 1.2 mm all the time but yes its pain in the ***
Wanna build another one for me?? 😂
Beautiful job. I know you Auzzies are tough.. but dude.....Gloves!!!! 😅
Aside from the inclusions, that's damn good looking beads from an ac buzzbox.
Hey mate what kind of cells are you using ?
"were" using... These are a 7000 mAh pouch cell, mostly LiCO2 built as a 96s10p pack.
@@jonescg Nice, Is there anything wrong with using lipo batteries from rc drones for something like a electric motorbike ?
@@reubeneves6567 Not at all - Voltron Evo used 5000 mAh LiPo cells and dominated the eFXC series. Expect a good time, but not a long time. They're probably good for 300-400 cycles but oodles of power for the task. You will find that the RC hobby connectors used are not ideal for high power applications like this, hence I bought the cells individually from a supplier in Shenzhen. In this situation I had a very effective cooling system which unfortunately leaked and ruined two modules, and compromised the rest, but we were able to salvage them and use them for a storage project (so far so good).
Interested in blue tooth wireless indicatorsChris?
Looks pretty good to me and a lot better than my birdshit welding.
Hello, for the video you did on spot welding nickel plated aluminum to nickel, which grade of aluminum did you use? I am an engineering student and we are looking to spot weld 6061-T6 aluminum to nickel fuses for our EV project.
I think it was 5000 series Al. But I don't recommend the nickel plating approach. If you use 0.9 mm copper and solder the nickel strips you get a much better result and its actually less trouble.