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One Electron Universe
Singapore
Registrace 6. 04. 2021
Exploring Electronics and Science.
DIY Oscilloscope using a micro:bit
Build your own oscilloscope using a micro:bit.
Oscilloscopes are expensive, what if we could build a simple one on our own. This video shows how you can build one using a microbit (you can use any MCU or ADC). The code shown in this video is available at the github link below.
In the previous video we built a square wave generator, in this video we validate what we built by viewing the generated wave on screen.
Github - github.com/one-electron-universe/microbit_oscilloscope
previous video - czcams.com/video/q3_gCp11FgA/video.html
LED Series - czcams.com/play/PLshbZh8J_AZiU5gsdlVDfW_7via4pYDp9.html
Multimeter Series - czcams.com/play/PLshbZh8J_AZgq43c95R42csy5wIca0FI5.html
Note : Making this video has stress tested my editing skills. Please bear with me if the quality is not up to your standards.
Oscilloscopes are expensive, what if we could build a simple one on our own. This video shows how you can build one using a microbit (you can use any MCU or ADC). The code shown in this video is available at the github link below.
In the previous video we built a square wave generator, in this video we validate what we built by viewing the generated wave on screen.
Github - github.com/one-electron-universe/microbit_oscilloscope
previous video - czcams.com/video/q3_gCp11FgA/video.html
LED Series - czcams.com/play/PLshbZh8J_AZiU5gsdlVDfW_7via4pYDp9.html
Multimeter Series - czcams.com/play/PLshbZh8J_AZgq43c95R42csy5wIca0FI5.html
Note : Making this video has stress tested my editing skills. Please bear with me if the quality is not up to your standards.
zhlédnutí: 867
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Cheap Multimeter Review Tutorial Aneng AN9205A (different from DT9205A). Also advertised as Aneng AN9205A Welcome to the first video on One Electron Universe. I do a quick unboxing and review of the Aneng AN9205A multimeter. Next, I do a walk through tutorial on basic usage of the multimeter to measure simple electrical and electronic components like resistors, capacitors, DC and Mains (AC) Vol...
Thanks for the well detailed and simplified explanation, could you please tell us what simulation platform you were using in this video ?
First of all you are a good teacher. I liked your videos and narration. I want to know what voltage & current rating of a driver required for a 18W tube light (by Wipro). There are total 98 LEDs, connected in pairs (groups of two parralel) and all the 49 pairs in a series. The data plate says 160 ma current. But no mention of driver voltage. I tried a 100V 200ma driver, it does not give full brightness. Please reply
sir how can i make led driver using dc to dc boost converter and dc to dc buck converter in the same circuit .I mean how can make the connections between this dc converters and LED
The bulged capacitor should have been replaced
Did you notice the bulge in one of the capacitors?
Great explanation!!!
Don't drive LEDs as bright as possible due to efficiency. Recently ordered LM301B boards even with an 80% efficient MeanWell driver I get ~160 lm/w at half current :)
what is the benefit of the diode between the inductor and the positive output and is it shotky diode or not ? thanks❤❤❤
Let there be sound....
Sir could you help to get the resistor value in R50 and R15 near in 10A connector. because i plug my in 220v why'll in current. Thank you very much
The multimeter does not measure the hFE of the transistors, because it does not have a built-in socket inside, and the pins of the transistors go into the void. If you add the socket, it starts working, but please correct the description in the front panel, C and B are swapped
best explanation I've encountered so far about led drivers.
Can I measure frequency with this multimeter?
No not this one. I would recommend Aneng AN8008 for frequency upto 10MHz
@@theweb2guy thanks
4:35 the manual says there's a kHz mode but there isn't one on the meter, so the manual apparently is either for a different model or they just lumped in a single manual for all their models
Sorry, it’s too advance for me. Meanwhile it’s very quick. Thank you.
I want to make dimmable led driver
very good explaination
What is the solid white triangle? Could that be frequency?
Sorry. Didn't watch the whole video. Test for live wire. Mine just made a short "pip" sound, a short flash, and now seems dead. 😞 That was for 120V 60hz line Perhaps that is not what it is for ???
@@ttrtilley you don't connect both leads to 120V, did you? Possibly it was meant to be connected only with one lead, the positive side.
Tests might be little invalid in this video During few of your testings around middle of the video, multi-meter was not showing 0 when nothing was connected 11:49 as example It was already showing 30-33v reading and it was slowly moving down to 0, almost like it was charged somehow and was slowly discharging That might be why it measured stuff on higher side like, not 220 volts but instead 260(and was slowly going down) Same with 8:25 47uF, it reads it as 50uF but when you disconnected the leads, it was still showing 2uF on screen
fair point. need to wait for the multimeter to show zero.
That should have no bearing on the measurement when it's properly connected to the outlet terminals, it's not doing any kind of nulling measurement or anything. As soon as it's connected, the meter should be reading the voltage it's connected to.
Very good explanation
There is a potentiometer just beside the big ic
Thanks for the video =)
We need a driver that connects existing LED lights to poE, and adds an external switch. Remote computer control might be a nice touch too. Sigh, a man can dream. I think such a Driver would push poE into the consumer market and power up DIYers.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, it is much appreciated.
I can see 2 trimmer pots there.
goodday sir what value R16 and R17
The battery tester show a value around 40 with a full 1,5V Battery, what should this mean? What is the "Delta Flash" between 200mVDC and HFE?
What the battery tester does is puts a load in series with the battery to test if it can actually drive a load. The value you see 40 here is directly proportional to the amount of current the battery would drive under load.
@@theweb2guy what's the mean of delta
That's a strange one, never seen a symbol with that triangle-flash before. It seems like the accuracy of this is unusually poor from the reviews I've seen so far, so I probably won't be finding out for myself.
it is the current in mA to a resistance of 37.5 ohm, which is connected in the device parallel to the measured battery
Thanks bro, I was planning to buy it.
No problem 👍
Did you buy? Hows the accuracy and precision?
Do you recommend it ? I need somthing ile that...
I would suggest you spend a little bit more and go for a better model.
@@theweb2guy thank you...so which one do you recommend ?
i think this is the best video but i think you should shade more light on differences between constant voltage driver and constant current
Thanks I found the link. Cheers
Hi, what is the on line link of free simulator please? Thanks
www.falstad.com/circuit/ incase others are also looking.
What's RMS ?
Rms means " Root mean square".. Simply we can say for easy understand an " average "
Very good explanation
Like analises!
you did not notice the bulged capacitor. how come? try replacing that and the led light fixture will light up.
Good observation. I did test the capacitor. it was fine but definitely close to its end.
I'm trying to learn more about LED drivers, that's how I ended up on the channel. I have bought a batch of LEDs ceiling lights, their drivers keep on failing - and the offending part is that 6.8 uf capacitor. The whole circuit works fine again after replacing that. I've tested the circuit by putting a good capacitor of but a lower capacitance - the light then flickers occasionally. The capacitor also gets a little warm. What if we replace that with one of a higher value? Would putting a 20 uf one instead of a 6.8 uf one cause any problems? Would it likely to last longer? Putting a capacitor rated for higher voltage is very likely to make it last longer. 400v is the bare minimum here, 450v is standard, going higher than that could be beneficial. The only downsides I see with a higher rated capacitor is increased cost (which is justifiable to avoid repairing them repeatedly) and size (it has to fit in the fixture or driver casing).
You should probably replace the led and reduce the current by changing the current programming resistor. This will increase life expectancy of the led bulb. Also the input bulk capacitor is bulging which needs to be replaced for healthy filtration of supply voltage.
Hi, why do we have the diode, the inductor and cap at 12:23 ? Isn't the cap huge in comparision with the large ohmic resistor of 154kOhms?
How to open it? I unscrewed it but it doesn't open
you still have to remove both colored sides
Is this transistor socket working on bigger transistor?
The multimeter does not measure the hFE of any transistors, because it does not have a built-in socket inside, and the pins of the transistors go into the void. If you add the socket, it starts working, but please correct the description in the front panel, C and B are swapped
Hi. At minute 7:20 I am able to see a few holes and an "hFE" marking on the motherboard. Is this multimeter able to test transistors? Thanks.
It is meant to. but the connectors are horrible so pretty useless.
Can you please tell me the numbers on the resistors R50 and R15. I accidentally blew them and can`t see there values/numbers. Thank you in advance
R50= R010( 0.01 Ohms) R15=R040 (0.04 Ohms) 👍🏼
Hello, can you tell me does the package includes the battery?
No it does not
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How to design LED constant voltage source in everycircuit
How to create hysterises curve in everycircuit app for Schmitt triger
very good narration
Glad you liked it!
I would never buy something like that. A multimeter has to be reliable of course, but FIRST to be SAFE... Never trust this garbage ! When I see your other videos, you are more serious especially when you speak about safety. You definitely lost 10$ 🙄
Agree, I have bought an UNI-T this time, hopefully will review soon.
You don't give the datasheet of C1 6.8 uF (400v I hope ?) it seems very bulky, I would immediately replace it by a Japanese one. Anyway the manufacturer design circuit of this light drive too much current for the LED'S and your "repair"will probably fail in 1 or 2 month max. Sorry but at this day, the Chinese made LED fails to much. Anyway, your explanation is outstanding 👍
Thanks for the comment. Glad you liked the explanation.
In the constant current schematic you give, the mosfet is in a linear region (bad efficiency). So it will heat much more than in the constant voltage circuit. How do we have the best of the 2 world?
My multimeter also lacks a connector for testing transistors.