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You are correct, I can not see his problem? czcams.com/video/_cDmOHjDh-E/video.html

I ran into the same issue. I always found I was ~2mm long on wide rips when calibrating using the bars. After looking at the system closer and doing some math with the calibration markings/arrows, I determined the narrow rip bars used for calibration were ~2mm too long. At first I thought about calibrating the set correctly and then inserting the bars at the zero mark and cutting off the ends of the white nylon ends with the track saw. Alternately, I found a 6mm stainless steel washer to be about the correct thickness to correct this problem. I place one washer on each bar between the flip stop and the cylindrical nut. This reduces the length of the bar used for calibration and cutting and seems to be doing the trick. The vendor will provide no help as they indicate that the t-slot rails need to be fully inserted into the attachment head and will not acknowledge calibration is required beyond that. This method leaves me ~4-5mm off with my Makita guide rails. Additionally, I found that one of the aluminum bars for joining the heads to the track was drilled off-center for one of the attachment points This skews the bar some making it a little difficult to slide on but so far does not appear to be affecting use. I also find the knobs for the flip-stop adjustment to be finicky as if they are binding against the aluminum and can be difficult to tighten or loosen. I may tray a nylon washer under them to see if this helps. Overall, the parallel guide set holds great promise at a great price. Too bad the execution and quality control make them finicky to use. I contemplated selling them off and going with the TSO set but the cost has kept me from making the leap.

@@georgemuff5482 exact same problem. It's possible to calibrate them by bypassing the little sticks altogether and just lining up the edge of the rail guide with a piece of stock you know the exact width of and then butting up the stop guides against it, but then you can't use them for thin rips because the calibration would be off. Piece of junk imo.

@@judomarshall I would not classify them as 'junk'. I tend to think of these Bangood purchases more as a kit rather than a complete working product. A simple case of you pay your money you make your choice. At 1/3 or less the cost of a final product you will need to do some fine tuning, adjustments, or live with the shortcomings. I can afford to buy the TSO or Woodpecker sets but am not sure I see that level of value in them. I have a perfectly capable 3hp cabinet saw to make accurate rip cuts. Sometimes it is easier to break down sheet stock with the track saw and I figured this would help in getting final cuts off the track saw instead of just rough cutting and having to run them through the table saw. I honestly think there will always be some level of futzing with any parallel guide on a track saw no matter who makes them since you are relying on two measuring devices to achieve a parallel cut. Even the Woodpeckers and TSO offerings require some calibration which is subject to error.

I have added shims between guide rail and T bar. 0.45mm thick. That got the thing working as it should. They clearly sent the wrong T bars. I would be curious to know the depth of T bars that work as they should together with make of rail. Cheers

@@stewarthenton6414 Oops you beat me to it.

No. The screws should not need to be loosened and the guide should slide in the track until you tighten the Allen key grub screws in the T-bar.

@@stewarthenton6414 Easy fix. Add strips of tape on the slot insert to build up the height so the t-bar clears the top of the slot. To make a more permanent solution, mic the thickness of the tape layers and cut a shim of the same thickness. You shouldn't have to do this, but then again, it's not a Festool or one of those other expensive clones.

Chiming in with a similar comment. Reading the reviews on the product, you can see a number of people noting that it’s not truly compatible with Festool. The two solutions offered: use strips of cardboard. If you have a 3d printer, one person said you could make a 0.5mm strip and that seems to resolve the issue.

I raised a support ticket. They said they were contacting the manufacturer. They then closed the ticket after three weeks. If you have the same issue, send it back ASAP.