Video

That one bolt used to release the box...should be replaced with a pin & clip....(like used for a trailer hitch) or file the threads off of the screw and drill a hole threw it to attach a pin clip with a lanyard to yank the pin out quickly when needed...so much faster than unscrewing....ur concept build is fantastic tho🫡

tHANK YOU

Thank you, very helpful

I'm gonna give it the ol college try!

The best solution that I've envisioned involves drilling a keyhole slot in the front of the rack to minimize unscrewing time. Just push your fastener with an already threaded nut down into the wide keyhole and slide forward into the narrow slot to lock it in place. I like this idea better than a z bar style bracket made from cutting boards, but it achieves the same effect. For the back, use t nuts or rivet nuts or any other method to trap a nut from spinning freely and pair it with a thumb screw. It will have very strong clamping force, since it's basically screwed together. It's simple to remove, since it's just a tool-less thumbscrew unscrewing from a captive nut. Use a plywood, cutting board, or metal base plate inside the topbox to sandwich it down without risk of tearing the topbox plastic. The fasteners go through the plate, through the box, through your rack, and end with thumbscrews/thumbnuts/wingnuts.

Those studs are E8 socket to remove

Thank you! No shows how the spring goes. It's a 50/50 chance of getting it right. You made it 100% I'll get it right, thanks.

If you're lucky its the oil cooler lines. Unlucky its the rear timing chain gasket and system uptake. costs $4-5k to repair. And no the driveway Mechanic cannot do it. Engine needs be dropped fron bottom and almost entire engine torn down. And if you also unlunky headgasket could be bad adding another $3k. Which most people junk the car rather than spend $4k-8k on repairs. Most time the toyotas v6 develop these problems 150k miles and more. The sienna is still a very good minivan. Just as gets old, it will fall apart

Also a good idea to fill the old hole with toothpicks and wood glue

Are there not short sockets for the job?

Does the oil need to be drained from the oil pan first? Or can the oil cooler line be replaced with a full oil pan without 5 qts of oil spilling out?

Almost literally precisely the same situation I’m in. Same hinges, too, and also a similar situation w/ the holes offset. Thankfully I don’t have a dog that’s going to come charging through the door, just some cats that’ll wander out and also plenty of AC that’ll flood out the door as it just meanders open instead of closing as it should. 😅

Do you know if a 2008 Lexus ES350 has an oil cooler?

Toyota updated the part to the one you're showing in your video, but it was never been a recall. I had to pay the dealership out of my pocket.

Well done mate 👍

I had a vision for something similar, but the plastic melted crap made me put the pieces on a shelf and move on after I spent 10 minutes with a razor blade and thought it was not worth it. The “concrete sandpaper” trick is brilliant and has inspired me to pull those pieces back out and try again. Good work!

Get genuine part for cheaper. For example from EB Toyota: oil cooler pipe kit (pipe and two gaskets) part# 04004-29131, $56.41 (2/18/23)

2019 sienna 225000 miles and the hose finally. Got my assembly from Rock Auto $58 with shipping. Ever place in town wanted over a $100 for it.

This is a great tutorial, I seriously appreciate the effort put into explaining this, definitely makes it easier to follow and replicate on my own KLR. It is also a huge help having all the sizes listed, so I know what I would need. Gonna do this sometime within the week!

I got a HUSKEY 1/4" drive deep 12mm socket from Home Depot for about $4. It is 2" long and has a long hex depth. I first cut to 1-5/8 as suggested. I found I need to cut further to 1-1/2 (I ended up to be 1-7/16 after I polished the cut surface) and it fits all six nuts and bolts perfectly and, more important, easily. Thank you for your video and very useful suggestion.

Thank you for the super clear and thorough instructions..I think I'm going to be able to my cupboard doors

Hey friend, any recommendations, I have a 2011 Siena, it has a leak in the transfer case, I already bought a new one and put it in, change the seals on the front axle and it still continues to leak oil and I have looked for it everywhere and it always comes from there and it has been disassembled already 3 You see putting everything right in its place and it always leaks. What else do you think it could be? That's just where it leaks. We've already reviewed it with my nephew and we're still finding out what it could be.

Please because it leaks even if I have changed the seals and the transfer of toyota sienna 2011

Did this last year. 3 hrs, not that bad compared to doing lower control arms. Or doing the spark plugs. Surprisingly my 12mm socket from harbor freight I bought years ago for perfectly in that tight spot. Off course I did my research before buying a used sienna so I know what I need to fix going in.

Does Every hinge have to be started and finished the same for every door ?? I can't close latch my solid wood HEAVY Door I think it's because the Frame is old It's Weak It Literally Moves Around when I start Closing the door Then the Hinges Do Not Come together it's way off wont close . Is it the Frame That's Moving around because the DOOR IS ABNORMAL HEAVY AND THE FRAME IS A THIN 1\4 INCH X 6 INCH BOARDS THAT SHOULD NOT BE THERE FOR A MONSTER DOOR THAT'S THERE...

I just did this job on my sienna. The most pain in the butt job I’ve ever done. Five weeks on these small ramps I’ve got in my driveway. That long, because I kept telling myself “Needs more penetrating oil!” Serious procrastinator here! But seriously; the cut-down to 1 5/8 deep socket idea was the secret weapon that got the job done. Thanks much! … Now, for that damned VVT oil line, before the snow flies!

Outstanding info. I couldn’t have done it if I didn’t know about your cut down craftsman socket. I couldn’t find a single, or even full set of craftsman sockets, but our local Runnings store had a single deep socket marked “Pro-Grade 13712”that worked perfectly after it was cut down. I’ve since been informed that SNAP-ON makes a set of mid length sockets, as you essentially have when you cut down your own deep socket. I know about standard sockets, and deep sockets, but mid length is new to me.

Get an old bar of soap and put some on the screw threads and it will drive in alot easier. Just sayn'

I had to do this on my 2011 highlander yesterday. I got the same part at my local Toyota dealer for $99. The longer socket worked for me combined with a universal joint adapter. Pain in the ass, but it’s all done now. And yes I agree, Toyota should’ve made it with the metal pieces from factory.

I appreciate you making this video. I have a 2010 sienna that has under 100,000 miles so I may run into this issue soon. Rather than replacing the $160 metal piece with the two rubber hoses.. couldn't you buy a standard rubber automotive oil hose of the same diameter, cut it to the correct length and use a couple stainless steel hose brackets to secure it? I think Toyota and Autozone said they don't carry that specific hose because it's not a unique hose/part. It looks to be an ordinary rubber automotive hose that you can find everywhere and buy by the inch and cut to your specifications.

I like the perspective! All my Ryobi tools got stolen and I replaced them with DeWalt.

An excellent video. Appreciate the intro on the tools that are needed.

Such a great channel! Not only does he go through the steps on the project but he is honest about challenges he faced and how to solution them. Nothing is more frustrating then getting hyped about a project and following the perfect steps until you run into a roadblock like a curved wall and not knowing how to solution. Excited to watch more and learn even new hacks for those unexpected challenges we all experience when doing home improvements!

Clever! I like it.