Video

Too bad Crook is unavailable

I just found your channel after watching dozens of Mr Carlson's videos, and I joined your Patreon channel immediately. I don't want to make my own PCBs and I don't want to use surface mount components, so I am so glad you use through-hole components and make the Gerbers available. PCBWay's pricing is ridiculously cheap, so I will make some of your projects very soon.

A while back I made a solid state ECC83 with a couple of these but stuffed inside a dead Mullard ECC81 using the original glass envelope, czcams.com/video/Uku4D7dibfs/video.html

would it be correct to say using a mains transformer, the dc to dc convertor is no longer needed because you already have isolation /no ground loop (hum) or are you still needing to isolate digital earth from analog earth to prevent digital noise breakthrough?

I enjoyed watching and listening and thank you for inviting us into your experiment. There is one remaining question and that is the cathode resistor, You need about 0,4 milliamp. And to obtain that, you need about a 10k resistor. So far so good. You bring that resistor into the socket. But you, or someone else, next time perhaps will need 1 milliamp or 2 milliamp and thus will need another resistor value. In that case this particular solid state socket won’t work properly. Another resistor value will be needed. So the solid state replacement isn’t interchangeable flawlessly. It will need a dedicated approach for every application. And as you introduce a carhode resistor that was zero in the original situation, the AC amplification will drop. I didn’t hear you talking about that.

Manuel, I've wanted one of those ELV signal generators ever since you first introduced them to us on your channel. The company does not export them to North America. I don't know if this is some sort of legal thing or just a business decision but I think that it is missing out on a large market.

It would probably be a good idea to use a fuse for the transformer primary and secondary winding.

Hi Manuel. Will you be posting the board that uses the magic eye tube as a turn on/off circuit for the module soon. I would like to order them together in one shipment. Thanks for this useful video as my Zenith has a hot chassis.

I've been switching over to smd as much as i can,i had to buy a digital microscope though,i find i can miniaturise a circuit much more,for power supplies etc it is great,some audio circuits still work better with a more spaced parts placement like sub min tubes,though again the circuit does still shrink some what. My microscope set up is two parts ,a small one with its own screen and a second camera with a 17 monitor,the camera gives full board view at great magnification the small combined unit is more for late night quick checks on pcb soldering and viewing not for hours of work.

Brilliant! Thanks for sharing.

Why don't you design a circuit so you can't plug it in wrong? Have the circuit flip the hot and neutral the correct way or not allow the radio to have power to the chassis.

Why don't you design a circuit so you can't plug it in wrong? Have the circuit flip the hot and neutral the correct way or not allow the radio to have power to the chassis.

When you are stil afraid that the audio ground gets on the live mains, you can put in the soldered audio ground a large capacitor, but it would be a 400V 8µ or so. I don't like the sound of 230V getting in your BT board, it is original not designed for that.

You can use that miniature transformer in conjunction with a switch and wire it to the volume pot, using the switch to disconnect the radio signal, and add a 3.5 mm jack. On that 3.5 mm jack you could add a wireless Bluetooth dongle as another solution. Fantastic schematic and adaptation of your creation.

I am amazed that the EU never passed a law requiring all member states to standardise on the three-pin mains plug we enjoy here in the UK. 🤣🤣🤣 Yes, that was really realy naughty of me but I hope you get my drift. Here in the UK we're not that clever either with our reversible bayonet mains light sockets. I'd outlaw those as well as it's possible to buy B22 socket extension plugs. ⚡ 👿

Well done my friend! 👍

Greetings From Germany... A question concerning identifying the chassis ground transformer of the radio's schematic and then comparing it to a similar model that has an isolated ground. Is it possible to make a supplementary video or Part 2 just to show us viewers exactly what to look for on the schematic for a positive identification of chassis ground.

Nice addition to your Bluetooth lineup Manue, The only trouble is Bluetooth is you can't transmit simultaneously to one's whole radio collection. Coming up with a legal AM transmitter with good audio would be nice for the collector, but offers some serious problems.

Hello. Thank's for the Video. So, the 4VCW is an 2SJ245 ?

Hello i replace sometimes EABC80 with 3x1N5711 diodes and one russian 6N2P double triode. One section for preamp an one section for Phono preamp (bluetooth)works well and a radio maintains retro look.

Why?

Recently I did restoration of 1969 Philips Prestige all valve radio. Band switch which is rotary wafer type is giving some trouble. Can you suggest remedy?

It's good hearing you start out with a warning about the tube B+ voltage. Many years ago, while in high school, I was at a bench doing lab instrument repair while another student sat next to me working on a tube based CB transceiver. The chassis was frightening as it looked as if someone dropped components and soldered them where they landed. After a time, this student suddenly gripped the underside of the chassis with both hands. His body went limp and he slid off the stool falling to the floor, both hands still gripping the chassis, the bench mains power remained hot. Right behind me and over my right shoulder was the power kill switch for the lab. Just moments from when the guy landed on the floor, I hit the kill switch. The attending teacher and other students in the class had no idea what transpired. Fortunately, the student on the floor recovered immediately upon power having been shutdown, but both his hands were covered with burn blisters and skin punctures from the intensity of gripping the chassis.

Where can I purchase the PCB's

Manuel, I have a 6000...will not turn on, DC or AC. 12vac is coming out of the xfmr. Were the caps bad on your PS? Do you know if it powered up prior to replacing? Thanks....David in TX

Hi will you share the stl file?

I like the KISS (keep it simple stupid)method better.

I wonder why there aren't direct replacements with a 12V heater and a B+ of 12V so the PSU could be replaced with a socket and the radio run of a computer PSU giving 12V and a special transformer used to drive the speaker, it would mean no danger of electrocution.

Was someone in a fit of rage when someone ripped out some of the wires of the radio.

I'm wondering whether the 0V 'out' of the B0505 is connected to AGND. It does not say in the schematic, or am I missing something?

If you put batteries in the radio and turn it on, the batteries get hot and it doesn't work.

Call the National Trust!

Love the board. But $26 shipping for 5 boards in the US is nuts!

BTW Mr Caldeira is the main reason why I ve gone back to this hobby after 45 years messing around with digital and software. Thanks !

Hi, nice video, well done as always. Just wondering since you've gone to the trouble (correctly) of the DC/DC converter why have you left the chassis ground of the split rail power supply as is ? Surely there is room for a ground loop between the audio ground and that ground ? Options could have been a single rail op amp(s) or a DC to split rail DC converter ? Just saying..

Both my donor and the one I'm restoring the 10.7 if was shifted about 400KHz up. at 1st I thought the counter was off. But after I calibrated the frequency counter it was still not ok. I had to adjust the IF section now the frequency reading is Ok again. Not easy to access all of the transformers and trimmers.

Hi there. Do you have a “parts” list for the completion of this mod for the noobs? Thanks

Thank you.

I'm keeping everything crossed that I can use the forthcoming switch module with your v2 Bluetooth board of which I have several already built up. It'll solve a problem as the Saba Freudenstadt 9 I've just done has no spare contacts for supply switching on the PU switch and I don't want to do a hardware modification to add a microswitch as I want to keep this radio as original as possible. Thanks for sharing these projects. 🙏

interesting you don't seem to have a connection between the isolated 0V and Aground. I can't find a description of the chip only the module, but doing this could cause the chip problems as the digital side of the chip's ground is isolated from the analogue ground side. so it's a bit like trying to pass a signal between a source and an amplifier with only one wire. Normally you would sort out this issue with a star ground so the digital and analogue grounds are separated right up to the last minute. so currents flowing in the digital ground are not superimposed on the analogue ground. they same way that you do with A2D's Ref-grounds, they need to be connected to work but you connected them in away to reduce or eliminate digital ground noise. i suppose the other way is to use a 1:1 isolation transformer on the audio but they are not as cheap. Anyway thanks for giving me something to think about on a Sunday morning. I'm looking for a nice Bluetooth module to go the other way. which is much harder to do as a standalone module. I want to take an audio source and connected it to a Bluetooth headset, but how you get the headset to connect to a module without handshaking controlled by the user?

I now own 2 of this Grundig radio's both missing knobs and some other cosmetic issues. Now I'm building 1 out of 2 and you're videos will help me absolutely. Replacing the tantalum cap's to prevent failure. Many Thanks. And Yes the FM reception is amazing on these radio's.

I wonder if someone could take a vintage tube TV/radio and add a daughter board and a duplicate audio section with an extra speaker and decode and play stereo audio. You'd have to capture the audio signal, decode the channels it and send one channel to the existing audio circuit and the other channel to the extra audio circuit and speaker.

Thanks ❤

Thank you , this is a good blue tooth receiver. I have made it and installed on 4 German radios . With a mirco switch for the power on . Would like to improve this using the magic eye voltage .

very good explanation and straightforward approach to explain possible problems. I had two times problems with interference between Bluetooth module type M18 and the preamp 4558, the solution was to put the module about 10cm away from this pcb!

In my tube radio project I have sacrificed the "local/distant station" option and use its switch to supply 5 v to the Bluetooth module, while in transistor radio use a pair of contacts of the fm switch to the antenna socket. Just surgery.

Great made. What if the fillament is not connected to ground? There is a way to use a DC to DC converter that has 2x9V but I think it is overkill. Keep up the great videos.

Very good .

Newbie here is there circuit for ac/dc radio? That's what we have in the States mostly, great educational videos!

Wow great episode. That board came out beautiful !!! Love those isolated power modules. I have used them myself. Great for lots of things...