Video

We used the Cnc to get a flat surface, but this was the fastest way to finish up and left a great surface.

@@ScottWunderWunderWoods want another CNC? LOL

You are very welcome.

I agree with you (sometimes). If I have a new box of blades I am much more cavalier about cutting metal than when I am down to my last one. Besides the blade cost it is also just frustrating when the metal ruins an otherwise perfectly great experience.

Do you know what the make/model was?

I didn't even know that walnut was used for BBQ. I've always heard of using sweeter woods like hickory. I imagine walnut might produce a more bitter taste. It sure seems bitter when I get the sawdust in my mouth and nose.

@@ScottWunderWunderWoods it’s a darker smoke but I like it to smoke meat I am going to dehydrated any wood can be used to smoke. I like lilac wood myself with some oak.

It seems like everyone likes walnut right now.

Got some?

I do sometimes, but I know these have metal in them and I am planning to cut some of it. I used to dig on big slabs with a chainsaw to get to the one nail and often wrecked a piece of wood that I didn't need to while trying to get out the metal. Now, we can still have the big piece of wood and it will only have a small hole in it instead of a giant chainsaw gouge. It's a tradeoff between a $25 blade (which gets dull anyways) and possibly saving a more valuable piece of wood. This calculation doesn't work at a bigger sawmill where downtime is much more expensive than the product saved. That's how I ended up with these logs.

I get grumpy when I work in the summer in pants and boots.

Thanks Mike.Good points. I think about getting a faster mill pretty often, but I don't spend that much time milling. It is something I treat myself to between our custom woodworking jobs. Plus, the saw milling part is only a small part of what it takes to make finished lumber. After cutting there is still stacking and drying and planing, and then getting more logs.

No twist in this one. Had really straight grain.

That's probably about what I will get for all of it retail price. There are a few wider pieces on the ends that I can charge more than the rest per bf. I really can't believe I got that much out of it. I almost passed it up myself. Thanks for watching.

I agree. Pus, it feels good to salvage it out of such a non-looker of a log.

An orbital sander is definitely faster than the sander you have, especially if you get one with a bigger swirl pattern or the ability to switch to a bigger swirl pattern. We use Festool sanders with 5mm swirl pattern for faster sanding on clear finishes and 3mm swirl for sanding on stain finishes. Your sander has a 2mm swirl, so it will be the slowest choice. I also have a Ridgid sander which will switch between aggressive and less aggressive swirls. I like both sanders, but we have Festool sanders for the shop because they last much longer. Water-based poly will help retain the light maple color because it doesn't yellow. The maple wood will yellow with age. This is where the added white helps. It isn't so much to be a whitening effect as much as a way to hide the natural yellowing of the maple.

@@ScottWunderWunderWoods Thanks. What's the model of the sander that you were using? I am now trying to figure out which kind of topcoat i should use? The options are Arm R Seal oil based, Enduro Clear poly or the High Performance Top Coat in Satin - all GF products. My cabinet decision is a bit complicated, wish i could share pics with you :)

​@@cavalli821 I am not sure on the model number. We have several different models and all work fine. I am not a huge fan of water-based finishes, but I would recommend water-based in this case to keep the finish from yellowing. Oil-based finishes will yellow for sure. As far as the specific General Finishes products go, I can't really comment since I have never used them. We use mostly M.L. Campbell products.

I use 150 grit to remove old finish and prep raw wood for finish. I use 320 grit between finish coats.