Video

up pipe not the issues or turbo.. Using the sweep 90 makes it a breeze.. been on now for 4 plus years and no issues at all.. make sure to wire loom them to protect form the vibrations of the engine.

yeah i figured that out.. guess you could do a plug in type t-stat set to like 40 degrees so the heater comes on when temp goes below 40 or 30 maybe.. maybe better a timer??

@@carl2591ive always used a timer. The freeze plug heaters are usually around 500 watts so you need a timer that's rated for heavy duty. I'd get the highest wattage mechanical timer. Electronic timers and smart plugs use circuit boards with relays and though they say they are rated for a certain wattage they oftentimes burn up or fuse the relay contacts with heater loads... Just my experience...

good to know thanks.

hi shelby,, its kinda hard to explain the fitting between the two hose sections. i believe it a 3/4 pvc barb fitting with a brass 3/4 to 1/2 barb fitting and hose clamps are used to attach hoses. it takes some time to figure out with the parts in hand at lowe's home improvement store plumbing section. good luck

@@carl2591 Thanks Carl! The operation was a success. I appreciate your help!

sorry for late reply.. I would not recommend doing a flush. it can force material in the wrong places.. just do a drain and fill, give it a month or so and do again. the fluid should look like new. I bought a hyundai sonata with 125K miles and the trans fluid has never been changed. I had to drain and fill three times to get the fluid clean.. you have to remember you are only removing about 1/2 the capacity so two at min and sometime 3 to get it all changed.

so far so good.. when we were in ohio at CNC's shop Cory the owner was happy to see they had done so good and this was last year or now two, in july 2020.. the new hoses are a different material.. time will tell..

yes its a regular metal drain plug just like any other car for the most part..

I use the castrol transmax import.. it approved for this and several years hyundai trans that use the SP3 fluid and not a costly. (check the bottle for info) usually you need about 5 qts as you drain about 4.5,, depending on vehicle. I would drain then pour into a gallon container to check to see how much the first time..

2wd 7.3

true but if you are doing a drain and fill every 25-35k miles you are so far ahead of the rest of them.. I bought a 2010 sonata with 125k miles and the fluid was brown.. no smell, not burnt just brown,, had to do 5 drains/fills to get it back light pink.. that was over a month or so period. did another D/F in like 3 months later.. looks like new fluid now. you can never go wrong change the trans fluid, that is for sure.. I use the castrol oil transmax. its compatible with hyundai sp3 and cost less.

no clue on that man.. have not seen or worked on of that year.. sorry.

your welcome.. glad it helps..

And what size is it

when you have the turbo off it easier..you have to get on top with the blower tubes removed to get space. I used a small ratchet and socket and small wrenches best i remember. the size of fitting is 1/8" and it sits at a angle to the head. WHen you tighten it down don't worry if the fitting is not all the way down on head. just make sure to get it tight and use pipe dope for diesel fuel.

2003

It's the same under hood setup as his, he has a bunch of stuff removed to see things better and has a few mods in regards to the oil lines along with other easy fuel mods. Look at your motor. You have plugs right where he has adaptors in those plugs for better oil flow between such heads, except he removed the connecting line. Go to Riff Raff Diesel for a lower priced kit and many other easy engine mods as opposed to his fancy oil lines if you wish. And as a bonus you will get mod instructions, in which he does not share with you at all. Also do not do anything with the CCV as he is describing, especially when he has an incredibly poor cold air intake filter set up as seen. His rusty rotors really called him out as a novice on the 7.3.

We did not do pan drop.. if the fluid is not burned, black, or have chunks replacing the filter is really not needed according to a former ford transmission engineer. They inspected filters from vehicles with 300K miles and they still flowed like new.

@@carl2591 From my knowledge, the filters on these aren't that fine, rather intended to catch large particulate, and fluid changes are intended to correct any issues fine particulate from general wear may be causing. My transmission on my 08 Santa Fe with 135k miles (fluid never changed) is beginning to experience shift quality issues along with a valve buzzing noise at idle in drive. I am going to change the fluid and hopefully it will run well again.

I believe the info is in video.. ?? but at this point that info is out of my brain.. sorry dude.. :)

actually, its not a dumb thing and others do it besides him. I have a F-450 and using tables, scaffolding, ladders, etc.. is a huge pain. It makes it a lot easier to remove the tires and get the vehicle closer to the ground.

You might also damage your roof shingles, loosen the chimney brickwork and do some water damage to your attic. And that goes for this guy also.

www.cncfab.us/shop/cnc-fab-sd-hpopw-hpx/ have a good one.

Carl Newton the link you gave me was to hpop lines

sorry.. I used -6 AN fittings 1/8th" and stainless steel braided lines from Summit racing www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1395297-interesting-issue-on-back-driver-head-port.html www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1394475-looking-for-advise-on-fuel-line-change-out.html www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1396211-another-good-reason-to-redo-fuel-lines.html I got one fitting that was a 180 deg and the rest are 90 or 45 and straight. if you check the link above and poke around on the forums you can find other that did the same thing.

Carl Newton so all the thread in the head and and fuel bowl are 1/8th ?

the two on the side are.. the one on teh bottom which is a port for fuel pressure I was using to get new fuel line to driver rear head you need a special sitting call o-ring boss.. if you read the text in the post above at the ford truck site it tell in there what is needed.. been a while so not all the sure.

the factory hard lines are just as hard/easy to install. The -6AN fitting and lines are larger allowing fuel to flow with less restrictions. This is not a real concern when not doing a lot of fuel hunger mod, ie.. larger injectors, etc. One quick note is my wife did notice, without my prompting, the engine did sound a bit quieter. :) The biggest complain with factory lines is they can run a hole in line on the passenger side clamp location over time. If you don't want to do the fuel line mod at least take the clamp off line and install some more material to protect the metal from rubbing a hole from vibrations..

if you watched video theres new fittings for those hoses aswell.nothing old.

@@rustysummers3217 was sasssqzqq a sazazsgghgyh yo yo yo huh unhurt Juninho by hnuhu huhuhds I sessss❤ as s❤❤❤❤swsss

No we have not noticed any smell thus far. We do spray a solution of water and vinegar in liquid area as well to help reduce build up and smells and that seem to work.

the 3.3 5 speed auto takes around 11.3 quarts i believe

4qt or 1Gal for ‘09 with the 2.7l and AWD.

As much as comes out. I understand this only gets about 4-5 qts out .

Gary you did not need the spring check valves in teh pump when you change the lines. Most folks a lot smarter than me has stated its better to remove the check valves which eliminated the need for the oil cross over hose from head to head. check out the guys at cncfab.us/shop/cnc-fabrication-7-3l-sd-replacement-hpop-lines/ for more info.

you will like the CNC fab guys stuff and they are a class act.. thanks