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Are this good trucks I’m thinking of buying a 1994 v8 4x4 Manual. With 170k miles any tips on what to look for

My Mickey Thompson tires rev/mi 35/12.5 is different than yours. Is that possible or did I mess that up?

I know I’m over a year late but I’ve never seen a more useful, understandable, easy to see what’s going on truck video in me life. 10/10 ur the freaking man.

Good info

Dude you’re hella knowledgeable! . I need can I reach out to you if I have any questions ? I recently got a 95 Eddie Bauer and planing on doing a few small repairs. I watched your video a few times and subscribed !💪💪

You mind giving a run down on a late model bricknose? I just bought a 1991 f150 XLT lariat 5.0 5 speed 4wd short bed.

The fact i have the exact same 35 x12.5 and found this video made my day!

Air pump's purpose is to pump oxygen to the cats to heat them up faster.

as someone who has always liked cars but never known a lot about them (done youtube fixes off and on), would you recommend one of these f150s for a newbie or suggest i steer clear? would love to get one but don’t want to if the more common issues might put me in over my head lol

Only thing I can think of off hand between 1992-1996 is the steering wheel change in 1994.

I have a bad printed circuit. Went to replace a bulb and now half cluster doesn't work. How do you remove the printed circuit? Remove everything and then bulbs and it should come off?

You need your fan shroud.

So 10w-30 will be good for Georgia, USA all year long???

Thanks, Junkautowerks. This information helps a lot for a new guy getting in the fever of a 1993 F150 XLT.

I’ve got a bad situation and need some help.. I have a 96 bronco with a 91 e150 engine.. both 5.0 but all of the accessories on the engine are from the 91 .. it doesn’t run right due to timing and other factors that make them incompatible.. so I ordered a long block for this truck and now I’m not sure what I can swap on to it and what I need to buy

I’ve got a bad situation and need some help.. I have a 96 bronco with a 91 e150 engine.. both 5.0 but all of the accessories on the engine are from the 91 .. it doesn’t run right due to timing and other factors that make them incompatible.. so I ordered a long block for this truck and now I’m not sure what I can swap on to it and what I need to buy

I run 20w 50 in my 95’ f150 5.8 with 300,000 miles on it

How do you go up in the number not down

Also : for the 96 model year under 8500 GVWR the car had an MAF and changed from EEC-IV to EEC -V. This also meant change drom ODB1 to ODB2. And this mesnt, that the car had no longer the Air Pump, not TAB and TAD Sensor, but 2 Cats, 3 O2 sensors and a separate EGR Valve Solenoid next to the Spark Coil.

5/20 weight is awesome ! Oil depends on bearing clearance .

You don't need a new tps just recalibrate it . Plus you don't need to disconnect anything from throttle body but TPS

Yunks works 🇺🇲🏁🏆

1996 is OBDII. Before that was OBDI

Do 91 -92 that’s where ford really changes stuff

Thanks for the info and belt diagram. Ive been resto modding my 92 Flare Side and got some good tips.

Great video 👍 thanks for sharing. I just got my 96 F150 and trying to figure out some issues. This video helped

90 Bronco 5.8 351w 10w40 94f150 5.0 302 10w40 70f100 5.0 302 10w40 06 f150 5.4 5w20 03mustang GT 5w20 All with over 200k miles Running strong 💪🏼 Castrol liquid engineering 😊

I run 5 W 20 in my 1999 F 350 7.3 & my 1996 F 150 4.9 5 speed for years, The oils I use are Shaffers 5 W 20 999. High but worth every cent. Nether pickup ever had a problem, Nether ever needs oil added, I put mobile 5 W 20 in my F 350 7.3 on this last change and it runs even smoother without the noise the 7.3 makes, But the point I’m trying to make here is the new full synthetic oils are great for these old engine’s. Thanks for your video

Is the intake smog legal for California my 89 bronco has It and idk if I can get to the smog done

Great tips! I appreciate it.

Great videos . Thank you . I just got one 1993 f150 going to be my summer project

Thanks for teaching man, you tube and people like you are the absolute shit.

which temp sensor for the gauge then ??

Keep an extra ignition module for these trucks in your glovebox…also, note that the big block modules will not cross over to the small blocks

My 3rd break light went out 1994 f150 so I replaced the bulbs and now my rev lights on the 3rd break light stay on while truck is completely off ?? Can anyone help ?

I have a question if there is anyway I can get ahold of you another way

So I've got a bunch of random knowledge I'll post here. These are just all my understanding and/or experience, so I may be wrong. ZF5 swaps are a popular "upgrade" to these trucks, especially from the Mazda M5OD manuals that were standard in the F150 and most F250s. If you are buying a ZF5 to swap, make sure it has the correct bellhousing pattern. These transmissions have 3 bellhousing patterns I believe; smallblock(300, 302, 351), bigblock(429, 460), and diesel engines (6.9L and 7.3L). There are 2 further distinctions between gas and diesel ZF5s, and the 2 generations of ZF5 (S5-42 & S5-47). The gas ZF5s usually came with much wider gear ratios than the diesel ones. The 2 generations had minor changes and are still compatible with all the same engines. For my swap from the stock M5OD to ZF5, I found a 4x2 S5-42 without the integrated drum parking brake, and it mounted directly to my 300 inline 6 without any fuss. I did not have to replace the stock transmisison crossmember, but the driveshaft did have to get cut and one end modified to fit the ZF5's yoke. The swap got me a much lower crawler 1st gear and a much lower, more reasonable reverse gear. Drivability overall went down, as the ZF5 is a big clunky slow metal box. Not great for daily driving, very good for a work truck. Look into your flywheel situation to potentially avoid "gear rollover" noises before you do a swap. The ZF6 is not compatible with the ZF5, unfortunately. I'm running Motorcraft 5W-20 in my 300 inline 6 right now and have been for about the past year. There's no knocking or other obvious damage being caused by it, though oil pressure got a little lower than I'd like during the hot summer down here in the southern US. My mechanic and I originally decided to go this route because I had a distributor (oil pump is driven off distributer shaft) shear its gear off and drop it in the oil pan. We've since decided to go back to 5W-30 even though it's about to be winter again, and we've since concluded the oil wasn't the reason the distributor failed. Not saying you should run 5W-20, but for the last 6k miles nothing bad has happened. My engine has 284k miles on it. I've heard from 1994+ the front suspension mounts between 4x2 and 4x4 are the same. Theoretically it seems like a swap from 4x2 to 4x4 would be as easy as swapping the components and bolting them right up. I have not yet tried this. If you're adding cab lights to your truck, they all seem to have the plug for them in the passenger footwell behind the A-pillar plastic cover. Even F150s. I'm not sure if this is year specific, my truck is a 1994. My understanding is that deleting the smog pump doesn't actually gain you much power if any at all. The headlight switch is a common failure point on these vehicle as it handles the full current of the lights. There are plug-and-play wiring upgrade kits that use relays to take the load off the switch. This is particularly useful if you like adding running lights to the truck like I do. The roof in a regular cab truck is actually 2 panels thick. I hear this is not the case on the supercab and extended cab trucks. Save the headlight adjuster gearboxes if you swap lenses. The ones that come with the new lenses are probably junk. These trucks have dummy oil pressure gauges. My understanding is they show "yes" oil pressure from 6 PSI+, whch is apparently the minimum spec from Ford for idle pressure. Obviously this is stupid and makes the gauge completely useless. Invest into an actual gauge. Use a T in the line if you want the original dash gauge to work in conjunction with the new gauge.

94 dosnt have a maf

I'm considering a classic 9th gen F-150, my first ever pickup, as a retirement toy. I'm 66, have limited tools and auto maintenance knowledge and a voice in my ear (besides my wife) saying "don't!" What I know I'll need is a reliable mechanic. Anyone know of someone in the Memphis area?

These trucks also stayed speed density (map sensor) through 1995 if they were manual transmission equipped

Hmm i need to at least get the 351 in my bronco to run before it gets swapped for a coyote

The air conditioner in 1992 and 1993 models came with R12. R134a is used in 1994, 1995, and 1996 models.

Fun fact, if you want to run true duals with no crossover, it is best to put the O2 sensor on the Passenger side for these trucks.

I'm glad I found your videos! I found an orphan F150 5.0 XLT that needs love and money. I am doing brakes suspension, complete exhaust, and unf*cking lots of poorly done repairs. I paid $700 and will have $2500 in parts before I am done. Ever seen a control arn held into the rear bracket with a swingset chain?😂

Ur 1994 is mid year going into 1995

Please if you can help me out I'd appreciate it I have searched for 4 months. I just can't find one.

It's a 5 speed. Straight 6 300 6 cyl.

How can I find a 1993 Ford f-150 front gas tank float assembly????

On the fuel like the check valves were made into the braided fuel lines on my trucks I have both a 93 lightning and a 95 extended cab 4x4

i have a 96 f250 4x4 long bed ext cab xlt . i have a re curing problem with fuel lines that feed the rails that go under the intake . its a 5.8 gas . you have to take the top part of the intake off to access them. i have had it fixed twice by professional garages , about 5 years apart. is there a permanent fix for this and is this a common problem?