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For really tight stocks I use a mallet on the end of the stock. Hit the top, them the bottom, them the top. You will see it start to come out slowly.

do you recommend using a mallet to put the stock in the receiver also? i have maybe less than a quarter inch to go, and i tried filing everywhere and it wont budge. thanks for the response !

Interesting. I will have to try that next time. Thank you!

I used Fiebings Tan. I have also found that their light tan color in several layers gives a nice yellow orange color found on Chicom AKs and is a shade lighter than the iodine orange. Fiebings orange is too strong and will overpower the wood. Plus it is hard to get off once applied

@@militarygunguy702 ok thank you

Thank you! 😊

Actually, I really appreciate that feedback. I obviously was not aware I was using it so much. I will definitely make a more concerted effort to be a bit more concise for future videos. I do still have several that I have not posted. That will probably have quite a few "Uhhs" but if you can get through those, I promise to work on that to make them better and easier to follow. Apparently my ADHD brain has affected my ADHD mouth. Thanks again for your input and have a fantastic weekend!

Hi Brent, it should run it just fine. You may have to wait a minute or two for the compressor to catch itself up. I have a 30 gallon as well. It performs better at 100 PSI but will still remove material even when it drops to 70 PSI. You can use your regulator as well to find the sweet spot. Also depends on the media you are using. If glass beads, you wanna keep it under 50 PSI anyway. Let me know if you have any other questions.

@@militarygunguy702 Thank you so much! I'll be using silicon carbide for glass. You mentioned waiting a minute or two for the compressor to catch up, which is fine. But what would the run time be before it does that? A minute or two?

@brentsealy9623 I usually let mine get to 125 PSI before I start blasting. My regulator is set to 100 though. Once it hits 75 I notice a drop off in pressure and pickup ability of the media. Silicon carbide is hard as fuck so you might be able to get away with a slightly lower pressure. On my end, for example, to blast a barreled receiver with 80 grit Alox, takes about 15 minutes. That's if it has blue, park or paint. If it has a specialty coating, it sometimes takes longer. For example I was blasting a part coated with alumahyde. Took a minute or so before I saw bare metal. The blasting setup at the shop is using 70 grit but our compressor is fucking huge. I can do an entire gun in maybe 5 to 7 minutes.

@@militarygunguy702 that's awesome. Thanks again!

@brentsealy9623 no problem. You need anything else just let me know. Good luck!

Thank you for the feedback! Appreciate it!

Yeah unfortunately I didnt renew the domain on time and it was taken over by a chinese entity. Sorry..

Hi there, the color is a mix of yellow, orange amd brown wet sanded in between.

Damn I didnt know they made them even shorter! Sounds like the 1891 cavalry carbine.

Does it have the shorter handguard, bayonet and the cleaning rod in the stock? It was the one right before this model i think.

Actually all bolt carriers are about the same length. The piston I more than likely bought from AK Builder.

Hi there, thanks for the comment. But it wasnt mine to sell..

Did you ever get an answer on how to do that?

www.thereloadingstation.com/

Sorry for the late reply. Yes, I use purple power buts about the same thing. Just dont let it sit too long

I understand. But in the end, using a Jig is one of the most reliable ways to accurately drill holes in an AK and the least likely to cause the holes to be off center and require them to be welded up and started over. Appreciate your feedback

@@militarygunguy702 Sorry but that was a frustrated post without thinking too much. I inherited a kit and with a complete machine shop, I figured there was some info out their on how to do it on a mill. I searched youtube and all top five vids were the same thing; how to use the same fixture.

@Wayne Hoxsie oh no worries man, so you are trying to drill rear trunnion holes without a jig? I have a simple tool I use for the front and for the 74 rear fork. If you wanna email me directly, I can show you. Militarygunguy702@gmail.com

The covers average 125+ now. And yes I am aware the type 38 and the 99 are different calibers. The dust cover install is the same process..

39 for good repros. 25 is the price for poor fitting repros. however on the type 99 i have found all of them are interchangeable and do not have fitting or rattle problems. The type 38 however will have super harsh repro dust covers which are way too tight and undersized. you can get away with spending 25 for a 99 dust cover but you will have to pay 39 or more for a 38 dust cover since they didn't interchange too well.

None needed.

Thank you! I take the time to research the original finish on parts so that my methods and end result come close to what it looked like originally.

@@militarygunguy702 I do the same. I look at lots of photographs to determine if a particular part was polished, fire-blued or rust-blued. I want originality.

Both. I set headspace with the barrel set in the trunnion as the first step, pin the barrel, Populate, then remove the pin and press the barrel out. From there I rivet the trunnion in the receiver, then reinstall the barrel assembly, check headspace, then pin. I do the final barrel pin ream before I reinstall the pin for the last time, but after I set headspace once it's in the riveted trunnion. Does that make sense?

No, actually. I use brake cleaner to clean the metal. It also removes the original paint especially if it's arsenal because their paint is shit. I strip, degrease, paint, bake, then scrub off to get the BFPU look. I have done the same with rust blue but it takes longer.

@@militarygunguy702 that's what @alandoughty6320 asked...lol.....great video though....thanks!

Oh nice I might have to try that. I use brass rod or screws for rigidity if at all possible. Its always a trick lining it all up

Thank you very much for your feedback. Some people get really bent out of shape when they see a military rifle that has been brought back to original even if it looks like the day it was issued

Email me at militarygunguy702@gmail.com and I can help you better if you need it

​@@militarygunguy702So I finally made the decision to begin the restoration and mitered the stock as you did, using threaded rods epoxy and fiberglass I successfully repaired the stock, my question to you I had to sand a good bit of the stock, should I sand the whole stock to match or is spot sanding ok? TIA for your reply.

Sure, what does it need and how bad is it? Email me at militarygunguy702@gmail.com Thank you