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Hi 77, you would simulate ride height by placing the jack under the control arm, preferably with a piece of wood to help ensure the medal jack base does not slip. Then, jack up the vehicle until all of the weight is on the jacked up control arm and not on the jack stands. Don't left car too high off jack stands. Remember, they are there for our safety. Just lift enough to be able to determine the weight of the car is now resting on the control arm and jack. At this point, you would torque the nuts to spec. This helps ensure the bushings do not get stressed or wear out prematurely. Ok, that's it. Good luck with you project.

Hi jonathan, I am not sure of the part number. If you are not comfortable with after market parts, you could always go OEM and simply save the labor cost. You would have original quality parts. There are other manufacturers as well. I am with you though.... finding good quality parts is not as easy as it used to be. I understand even some Japanese parts are being manufactured outside of Japan. Moog is a brand that I have used quite a bit in the past with good results. The thing is, you never know where the part is made until it arrives. Good luck with your project.

Hmm, to be honest with you, I'm not really sure what the differences are. I would start with Innova. They should be able to tell you. In fact, they might have a customer service phone number online somewhere. That's were I would start. Good luck in your search. Let me know what you find out.

Hi JR, the jumper wires do not come with the timing gun. That is an aftermarket purchase. I go the cable from a company called Wits End. It cost about $10. Of course, you can make then yourself, but I sprung the $10 just so I would not have spend time making it.

@@justsomeguy4941 Awesome bro thank you!

Hi Gabriel, this job is common on the 01 to 06 430s. I hope the vide helps if you should decide to take on the project. It is not a bad project. Just be sure you have the right tools.

Thanks bigjizz, glad you enjoyed the vid. Hope it helped. Take care and be well.

Thanks Marcello. Hope you were able to benefit from the video. Take care and be well.

Hi ToolD, I imagine you are referring to the caster bushings, which is what attaches the back of the control arm to the vehicle. You can see this being done starting at about 13:00 when I snug the caster bushing up to the vehicel. At about 14:10 or so I am applying torque to both inside and outside caster bushings at the back of the control arm. What is not shown is that upon snugging the bolts up to the vehicle, I placed a jack under the control arm and lifted it until the weight of the vehicle was on the control arm At that point, I torqued the bolts. Really wished I had shown this step. I commented on it in the text captions, but no video. Anyway, I hope this helps. The torque specs given were taken directly from the factory service manual (FSM). Take care and be well.

Hi Hat, the vehicle is a southern California vehicle. Rust is typically not a problem for us. I cant imagine having to work on a vehicle where the parts are rusted together, stuck in place, etc. My hat is off to those guys who deal with rusted parts on a regular basis. That must make every job a little unpredictable. I just replaced a bearing hub assembly on an Infiniti. It came right off with no problem.

I absolutely agree! It's crap. I was so excited when these things first came out. In fact, I bought two - a half inch and a 3/8 inch. My first sign something might not be as advertised was a trip to my favorite place to shop....the salvage yard. I was looking for a suspension part and thought I would use my new Milwaukee and leave my trusty and reliable DeWalt mid torgue in the bag. Hmm, that's odd, this thing just makes noise and no progress. Is the battery full I thought...hmm, yes. After working on bolts I could almost remove with my hands I realized I was HAD! Pulled in by the hype. The right angle idea is great. The form factor is perfect. Now, if it would just loosen fasteners Milwaukee would have a nice tool on their hands. You and I can't be the only ones with this experience. Perhaps Milwaukee will upgrade the tool in the future so that it is stronger than our bare hands at loosening fasteners. By the way, I have a new DeWalt Atomic with a PowerStack battery. Man let me tell you, that combo rocks! It is light weight, smaller form factor than my "go to" suspension impact (1/2 inch DeWalt mid torque) and enough juice to get through every job I have used it on. It appears that the Powerstack does not last as long as other DeWalt batteries, but it delivers more power early. That actually works for me since the objective is to loosen fasteners which only takes a few seconds. Now, if I were running it for 30 minutes straight, then endurance might become important. Ok, I am waaay off track. I like talking tools and cars so forgive me. How did this rant start.... Oh yea, the Milwaukee right impact is crap! Thanks for watching.

@F%98%ABannel/UC-tZqDFsfuyFenu9lvbxASA I'm just seeing this because I literally have over 400 comments to respond to on CZcams 🥴 but yeah, I think maybe the more recent ones work better? I too had the 1/2" and the 3/8". Both terrible. Just make noise and move nothing. On Home Depot's website the reviews say the same thing, but it seems the more recent reviews are better so umm, I might go and get a new one if you know what I mean. Buy one, swap them out and just say it's weak, which it is and return the darn thing! I need one that works. Thanks for this video! I'm going to start on mine in the morning, been traveling for the last 2 months.

Hey John, thanks for the comments. You are correct, these LS430s are exceptional cars. I have owned them since they were first introduced. When it is time for another vehicle, I simply get the next model or version that is out at the time. I keep them forever and simply ensure all service is done. The vehicle in the video is a 2001. I have since replaced it with a 2006 with fewer miles. Love - These - Cars!

Hi Alex, the Mevotech part held up well. Some time after the repair I sold the vehicle and purchased a slightly newer LS430. The repairs held up well. The only thing I would do differently would be to purchase the ball joints from a company other than Beck/Arnley. The parts I received were great, in fact, may have come from an OEM manufacturer. It is hit and miss with Beck/Arnley. On a different vehicle I purchased parts from Beck and they were inferior. In fact, they broker before getting them torqued down. Being surprised at the poor quality I contacted the company only to find out Beck/Arnley does not make their own parts. They are only a distributor. They source their parts from around the world. So, you could end up with a part from an OEM manufacturer and have a quality part OR one from a maker with poor quality and poor quality control. SO, I got lucky with my LS430 part. I was not so lucky with the party on my Land Cruiser. Lesson: Do not purchase any parts from Beck / Arnley. They have been removed from my list of companies I will buy parts from. This is based on my experience with them. Take care Alex and thanks for watching. Oh, and yes, I did both sides. I had the exact same problems on both sides.

Awesome! That's great to hear. Just curious, was the nut that holds the strut to the control are difficult to come loose? Thanks for watching and hope you will like and subscribe. I have other vids that I simply have not had time to edit. Take care and be well.

Hi Edward, glad you enjoyed the video. Do you have an LS? Anyway, they are great cars. I'm on my third one. I just keep replacing them with the newer model when the mileage dictate. Take care and be well.

Hey Marcello, thanks for the kind words. Regarding my thoughts on the car, I LOVE IT! I have owned the LS since the 2nd gen vehicle years ago. I drive them until I think I have put enough miles on them then I buy another. Same color (white) with beige interior. I would buy the exact same car each time if I could. I am not a fan of the model and body changes from LS430 to the LS460. Not sure what I am going to do when it is time to replace my current vehicle. In fact, the vehicle in the video was replaced by another that looks exactly like it with the exception of the lights in front. Anyway, I could go on for a while about how much I like this car and for the reasons. I would highly recommend it. I now have a 2006 and would recommend it. All the best and good luck. Glad you enjoyed the video. Hope you will like and subscribe. I have other videos, but have not had a chance to edit and post. Been posting on a truck I got out of a guys backyard. Kinda been a project for me. Take care and be well.

Hey there. I see I missed your comment from a while back. I just put a behind the bumper winch on my 80 series. 12,000 lb Badland. Editing videos takes time and I have not had a chance to go through the footage. I hope you will subscribe and check it out once posted. I would like to know your thoughts on the project.

Hi David. Thanks for watching. Oddly enough, Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH) with the Mevotech control arms & bushings were fine. I could not tell a difference. Keeping in mind that I had gone so long with the vibration and clunking sound that I was comparing the repair to the broken and warn parts. From that perspective, night and day. Smooth and quiet. If I drove with Lexus parts and then replaced with Mevotech, that would be a better comparison. In any case, I have no complaints. The only thing I would recommend caution on are the parts from Beck/Arnley. I got lucky and received quality ball joint parts. It appears Beck/Arnley sources their parts from multiple suppliers and they are only resellers (not manufacturers). Some Beck parts are literally from the same OEM makers for Toyota & Lexus and others parts are not. At the time of this repair, I did not know this. Months after this video I purchased Beck/Arnley parts for another vehicle and they were sub par in quality. The quality was so different from the part I put on the LS430 that I actually called the company to better understand how this could happen. Upon speaking with the company I discovered how their parts are sourced and packaged. They buy parts from multiple manufacturers from all over the world. So, some parts are made in the USA. Others are made in Japan (by OEM manufacturers), others from Vietnam, China, etc, etc. I would not recommend Beck/Arnley because the part may not be high quality and if you cannot tell by looking at the part, hard to know what you are getting. So, since Beck/Arnley parts are hit and miss (I got lucky and perhaps got an OEM manufacturer), I would recommend ball joints be purchased from someone who makes their own parts and can monitor quality. On other vehicles I have used Moog and those have worked for me in the past. Anyway, sorry for the long answer, but I hope it helps. Also hope you will like follow and subscribe. Take care and be well.

​@@justsomeguy4941 Good to hear. Those big oil filled rubber parts can be hard for aftermarket parts to match oem NVH. I got an exhaust rattle day one with ROCAR engine mounts, and had to redo the job with oem.

@@vollandt Yikes! I do actually try and do OEM whenever possible. If OEM is not that for away from aftermarket in price, I use OEM. If I can get the same OEM manufacturer through RockAuto, I buy at RockAuto and get the OEM manufacturer. For example, I used Aisin parts (water pumps, etc) or KYB struts, Denso Plugs, etc. These are the companies that manufacture the parts for Toyota / Lexus. Same part without a Toyota stamp on it. RockAuto will sell the part for 1/3 to1/2 the price at the dealer. So, I try that first. If you have never ordered through RockAuto, you really should give it a try. Take care and be well.

Hi Daniel. I'm happy to help. Whenever you are installing bushings, especially those that will have have suspension travel "around" an attachment point on the vehicle, you should place weight on the suspension to simulate the car being on the ground...since this is the state your suspension will be in for the life of the bushing. The reason for this is so there is no stress (twist) on the bushing. Stress will cause the bushing to wear prematurely. Ok, the way to simulate the cars weight on the suspension is to 1. Snug your nuts (do not tighten or torque). 2.Place the jack under the control arm nearest where the tire will be - ensure jack is securely placed where it will not slide away from the arm. 3. Slowly lift the jack until the vehicle starts to rise...as if you were jacking up the vehicle. You see, once the vehicle starts to rise all of the vehicle weight is now resting on the control arm JUST as it would be if the tire was on the vehicle and the weight of the car was resting on the ground. And that, my friend, is how you place weight on the suspension ("before" you torque the nuts/bolts). Now, once the weight of the car is on the suspension, you can torque your nuts and bolts to specs. This ensures there is no pressure/stress on that new suspension part that you just installed. I hope the explanation helps. Thanks for the kind words and I hope you will like, subscribe and follow. Take care and be well.

Thank you so much brotha . I’ll definitely subscribe to you channel. Im trying to get to get my LS running smoothly. So again I really appreciate your help.

Hi Aveon, truth be told, I am not sure. My first thought...and "go to" place is normally Rockauto.com. They sell OEM parts (distribute to manufacturers) at great prices. I don't know if they would have axles. You might try them. If RockAuto does not have the part, I would check the salvage yard, which is my second favorite place to shop for parts. You might try a yard called LKQ Pick a Part. You can input the type of vehicle you have and if they have one in stock, they will tell you. If they do not have one, you can be notified when the specific vehicle comes into the yard. As long as you are willing to pull the part yourself, you can save LOTS of money. Of course, you have to be comfortable with a used axle. Anyway, those are my thoughts. There may certainly be other options. Good luck and let me know what you decide.

Mona, thank you soooo much for your input on the radiator. Another viewer pointed this out a while back as well. I was not aware of this issue prior to feedback received. So, I have been driving much less AND am in the process of ordering a new radiator. In fact, I am going to get a Denso from Rockauto. Appears to be OEM, but costs less than dealer part. Denso is an OEM supplier to Toyota so I imagine it is the same radiator. Anyway, after part comes in I will install along with doing oil pump gasket and front main seal. Regarding the behind the bumper winch install, it takes a while for me to find time to edit the videos. The next Part (Part III) is recorded and I just need to edit. That next part was a bit of a bear since the control pack was LARGER than I thought it was. Anyway, I think I got it situated and will be posting the vid soon. Thanks for watching and most important, thanks for the radiator feedback. Keep those observations coming!

Thanks Yue. Be well.

@@justsomeguy4941 You too!!

Thanks Krazy, hope the video helped in some way. Take care and be well.

Hi Preston, it does appear this way. You are correct. I did, however, place the vehicle load on the suspension but did it off camera after realizing I had just torqued without a load. I placed the comments in the video at 12:54 to ensure people knew a load needed to be placed on the suspension. I basically sat the vehicle down onto jack stands that were placed under the control arm. Once the floor jack was no longer supporting the vehicle and the weight was resting on the jack stands, the control arm was torqued to spec. Good observation. I hope other viewers know what I am referring to in my text comment at 12:54. Anyway, the text was the only way I knew to address this. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Hi Outdoor! Thanks for watching and commenting on the video. Much appreciated. I have been very pleased with this solution. The solution costs a lot less than some of the other offerings on the market that take up the entire tailgate AND requires removing the center structure to the tailgate. Anyway, more videos to come. I hope you will check them out. Take care and be well.

Thanks Dangerson. Each time I do something in the engine compartment, I try and clean the area just a little bit. So, over time, the various repairs have ultimately ended with a rather clean engine bay. It didn't start like this. Anyway, thanks and I hope you will like follow and subscribe. I have a number of projects where I need to edit the videos so I can get them posted. Take care and be well.

Hmm, no, I do not. How would I use something like that?

Hi Alexander. Unfortunately, I do not have the OWM part numbers. Just placed an order for another LS430 and will see if I have the part number. If so, I will circle back and post here. Take care.

Thanks Enrique, hope the vid helped. Keep an eye out for new videos. I have a number of them but have not had time to edit them all. Hope to see you in upcoming vids. Take care and be well.

Hi Marty. I could tell that the bushings were bad because they allowed the lower control arm to move. See 0:03 - 0:10 seconds in the video. Also, the Caster bushings were cracked - see 0:11 - 0:15 in the video for the cracks. The loose bushings allowed a clunk sound when going over bumps and a weird slipping feeling when going slow and making a tight turn. Felt as if I ran over a banana peel when turning into the driveway. Replacing the control arm (with bushings), as, well as new ball joints solved the problem. No more noise over bumps, no more clunking sound over bumps and no weird feeling in the steering when making a slow tight turn. Ok, regarding your vehicle, I would recommend first trying to see what is moving in a way it is not supposed to move. I would place a camera under the vehicle pointing at the parts you suspect - e.g., control arm bushings where the lower control arm attaches to the frame, caster bushings for cracks and your ball joints and tie rod ends. Once the vehicle wheel is off the ground, grab tire in the 12 & 6 o'clock positions and move tire. Then place your hands at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions and move the tire left and right. Then check your video. If there are parts moving that should not, you have a place to start. Also, check to see if there is grease stains at your tie rod ends and ball joints. If there is what looks like black grease, this suggests your protective boots are cracked, which could let dirt and debris get to your joints, which of course, can cause failure of the joints. I hope this helps and good luck diagnosing the problem. Take care and be well.

@@justsomeguy4941 appreciate you! It had play everywhere. I replaced the hub assembly and the noise is gone. Removing it was a process, used a couple of the ideas I saw others use. Not something I want to do again anytime soon for sure. Lol

Hi Mona, thanks for the comment. Now, if I can just get some of the remaining videos (e.g., painting process, engine knock & solution, ARB Diff Breathers, etc) edited, I would be doing great. Hard to find the time. Anyway, I hope you will subscribe and provide your feedback on upcoming videos. This helps me make the videos more meaningful and hopefully, better than the prior video. Take care and be well.

Hi Clayton, thanks for the comment. Hope you enjoyed the video and will keep an eye out for others that will be edited and posted soon. Take care and be well.

My honor Eric. Glad you liked the video. Take care and be well.

Hi guillaume, I have all the pieces of video to use, but since my process was so haphazard and all over the place, it's a lot to edit and I simply have not completed. I plan to finish in the next couple weeks though so keep an eye out for it. I had never painted a vehicle before. Had never used an automotive sprayer. Had never blended paint on a vehicle. I will say, it was a LOT HARDER than it looks and I learned a lot. Hopefully after vids are posted other can save themselves some time AND LOTS of money since this type of paint job would have cost thousands. Thanks for watching and I hope you will like and subscribe. Lots more to come...

Thanks Trent. Glad you enjoyed. There are more to come. Hope you will subscribe. Take care and be well.

Thanks Virginia! I could have been more efficient. Not being prepared, not having fully charged batteries and doing job away from home took lots of extra time. Take a deep breath and jump right in. The project is actually not that bad and actually gives a nice amount of extra storage. I actually have an extra set of hatches that were purchased, but did not like something about them. Think I am going to give them away in a future video...as soon as I figure out how to do a giveaway that is fair. Anyway, keep an eye out. Might be just what you need to take that next step. Be well....

Thanks Chauncey. Glad you enjoyed.

Hi Five, thanks for the comment. The tailgate mod using marine hatches has worked well. Now that I have had them a while, I am really glad I kept the center structure. I periodically to out in the truck and like to sit on the tailgate. Just feels better know I did not rip out all the structure Toyota built into the truck. Anyway, glad you enjoyed the video and hope you will watch for future vids. Be well.

Glad you enjoyed, hope it helped in some way. Be well.

Thanks Lost, I have other vids that I still need to edit. I'm finding that it is not as easy as it looks to shoot the vid, edit and post all within a matter of 15 minutes. I'm learning though. Anyway, glad you enjoyed the vid. Take care and be well.

@@justsomeguy4941 Tell me about it. Shoot in India for 5 months. Looking forward to the rest.

Asian, it is probably easier to check initially with the wheels on. After you lift the vehicle off the ground, place a camera (like a cell phone) pointing at the bushings, one at a time. Then, with your hands at 3 & 6 o'clock positions, move the tires back and forth. Do this again with your hands at 12 & 6 O'clock. See if there is any movement at the bushings. Finally, if this does not produce any definitive results, try removing your wheels. Check the upper control arm bushings. They can be broken, but you may only be able to see this with lateral movement and not moving the tires back and forth as mentioned with the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock hand positions. You would want to take a prybar and move the upper control arm from front to back and see if the control arm "slides" back and forth on the bushing. If it does, this would mean a new bushing is needed AND it is unlikely this would have been discovered by moving the wheels. Anyway, good luck and thanks for watching the video. Be well.

Radiator was not on my list at this point. I still have some other items that I was going to do. I'm not having overheating problems or leaks. So, unless that changes....that will likely wait until a few more things are done. Thanks for watching. I hope you will follow and comment as I continue with repairs and upgrades. I love the feedback and interactions. Cheers!

@@justsomeguy4941 I would prioritize replacing that radiator. It's a ticking time bomb given the colour of the upper tank (brown). Check the heater valve (on the firewall of the engine bay). If it looks brown in colour too; also replace it!

Neg, thanks for the comment. Another viewed commented about the radiator as well. After doin a little checking, it appears a brown top of radiator typically indicates age. This is a failure point, etc. So, thanks for your comment and I will now ad radiator as a priority item. I can do this change when I do the oil pump seal. Take care.

@@snowpeaky Hey Snow, thanks for the comment. Much appreciated. After a little checking, it appears the top of the radiator turning brown is a sign of age on the radiator. So, a new radiator just made my list of things to do. Thanks again and as always, thanks for watching. Be well.

@@justsomeguy4941 No problem. Glad you were able to find more info on it and plan to replace it! Have you checked or replaced the PHH (pesky heater hose)? Another common failure point on these. Tons of info and videos about this replacement too. Was the first thing I did on my 80 when I got it! Good luck with everything!