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Unfortunately, there are still waiting to get installed (although we're getting very close!), so I haven't stacked them yet. I have looked at the stacking kit, and deduced that it wasn't going to be a straight-forward process, as there was no obvious slots, bolt holes, etc to let me envision how the stacking kit works. I'll go out and take another look, and if I figure it out, I'll advise.

Thank you. It's inspiring to walk up the stairs of the bus and see something that looks inviting, and not just a boat-load of nothing =)

LOL nice.....

Well, I suspect some would think it's a bit over-the-top, but, it serves two purposes...well, more like 4 purposes... 1) I'm really hard on clothes, so this keeps me from ruining my "going-ta-town" clothes 2) It often results in discounts at supply stores, or at least lets me purchase from wholesale outlets, even though I don't have a business license. Most figure I'm just starting a business, so they classify me as a "handy-man" working his way to a business 3) Jennifer is learning how to sublimate, so making these items gives her practice (and she's getting pretty good at it) 4) I've spent most of my life having a uniform of some-sort, and I've always liked not having to figure out what to wear, I just put on a uniform and I'm out the door.

I am thinking of doing an entire video on all the controls of a Prevost bus...in case someone else loses their mind and goes "Lets go buy a bus". It wouldn't be the mechanical side of things, there are plenty of more qualified folks doing that, but simple things like "where's the defroster switch...how do you check the oil, how do you open the damn engine compartment...things like that.

OMG, I am so sorry! I've been in Texas, and sadly haven't been staying up on this. So, there are two heaters. One for the driver and one for the passenger heating system. You've probably found the driver heat controls, those seem to be the majority of controls. The passenger heat is a toggle-switch which has a "half" snowflake and "half" sun icon. Mine is right by my right knee as I sit in the drivers seat. The drivers heat is a knob switch near the switch to open/close the door. The temperature controls are also separate knob controls, just to the left of the fan control for passenger heat.

So sorry for such a long response. I've been back for about a week from Texas, and trying to get back to work is a hot mess. I left everything scattered, and trying to get sorted has been...well, challenging. I'm still trying to figure out CZcams's interface, so I can't see what video/project this question is for. I assume it's for the mini-split? It's doing amazing honestly. I can't wait to get the second unit up and running. Even in mid-30's, the bus is still comfortable enough inside to work. Now, maybe not to travel in, but I am confident the second unit will make it nice and toasty inside. If this isn't what your question was about, I'm going to try and see what video this was for, and edit my answer =)

Thank you for support! I honestly had no idea what I was getting myself into (not just the bus build, but making a youtube channel as well), so all of this is a learn-as-we-go process =)

Thank you for the encouragement yourself! Trying to document this process, and not bore everyone to death is a bit tricky sometimes, so you're comment helps a ton! I really am happy with the H3-45. My only "complaint" is the rounded windows. That's the one area the MCI' and Van Hool conversions have us beat...but, not having to fight the rust battle more than makes up for that!

That's what I was thinking, but to date, I haven't been able to find it. There are about 3 switches that I just can't figure out what they're for. Even looking at the Prevost manual hasn't given up the answer yet. Most of the switches are described in that, but a couple aren't quite where the book shows. Thank you for advising! What I'll do is try and trace the wiring from the light back to the control panel, since you've confirmed there should be a switch (which makes complete sense).

I'm finally back from Texas, and starting tomorrow, it's back on the bus!

Thank you.... It could of gone better, but overall, I think it's going to look really good once the floor goes in, and the rest of the wall panels.

Yes, you are absolutely correct! You may have noticed, I didn't "level" it side to side, because front to back the bus was level, but left to right, not-so-much...so, I "ball-parked" it. It did drain correctly when I tested with water, with the low-side draining slower, so it should all be good once the bus is level. Thank you!

LOL Thanks buddy....

I can't argue with that, most of the units I see are mounted on the back of the bus...which works, but does take away from a sleek exterior, which was one of my wife's "must have" to get her on board with this project.

These are 12,000 BTU, the biggest you can go at 120 volts. The model is the Pioneer WYS-20, which can work as both an Air Conditioner and a Heater (although not quite as efficient in heat-mode)...just be stupid-careful when fishing the lines, else you'll run into problems....and yes, that's foreshadowing the next episode.

@@Bus_Rework I believe I am going with 4 zones that are 9k BTU each running on a 36k unit. One will be ducted with piped vents for the driver and the front, two will be floor mounted (1-bath, 1-kitchen), and one wall mounted for bedroom in the back. AC and heat, just FYI

Just FYI, that i found that 5/16"-18 Flat Head T40 Torx Star Drive Thread Cutting Trailer Floorboard Screws work far better than Rivet nuts. These torx bolts need a predrilled hole, they are fantastic to secure anything to the stainless steel frame.

My wife cut the letters out on a Cricut machine, but you could just get those vinyl cutout letters from Walmart or any craft store if you don't have access to that. To be completely legal, I should have gotten a trip permit from my home state, but in California, it was a huge pain in the back-side, so I just rolled the dice. I had insurance, and I was confident enough that if I did get pulled over, the explanation would be sufficient. The only "iffy" situation could be if you're going thru a state which requires busses to go thru scales....which is why I had the "Private Coach" signage, to get around those.

Awesome! Thank you!

That's a whole lot better! Now, to be fair, It was Prevost I talked to, and that quote was for one of the large windows with a slider and was for the frame and all (as I'm not a glass-guy)... 2452 is easier of a pill to swallow, but yea, I'm not swimming in cash so that's still alot....do-able, if necessary, but ewwwww.

Thank you! I've noticed a few things that could use some touching-up, but I am happy with the results, and appreciate the positive feedback!

Thank you! Cheers!

@@Bus_Rework how could we contact you?

Very true statement, I was extremely pleased with how well the paint looks. There are a couple areas (like the engine door) where removing the wrap did remove some paint, but as you stated, the majority of the bus paint is in excellent condition.

I used Teks metal roofing screws, which have a rubber gasket/washer, since I have wood framing underneath the aluminum. www.homedepot.com/p/Teks-9-x-1-in-Steel-External-Hex-Head-Washer-Sharp-Point-Roofing-Screws-120-Pack-21400/100128842#overlay

Outstanding! In a weird sort of way, It's good to have company!

I may be picking up an H3-41 myself in a couple weeks. If so, I'll be hoping to get info from you.

I'm getting "better", and I know I'm probably my worst critic, but thank you for the positive feedback!

@@Bus_Rework How could we contact you?Thank you.

@@hoists1829 I can be reached at bus.rework@gmail.com

I could of sworn I responded to this. Anyhow, I can be reached via email: bus.rework@gmail.com

I have a Non-Commercial Class-A License, which permits me to drive just about anything, just not commercial vehicles.... since it still had all the seats in it, and was still registered as a commercial vehicle, I wasn't exactly legal...If all the seats were out, I would be alot closer to being legal than not.... What I did was add some "Not For Hire" and "Private Coach" signage on the exterior of the vehicle, just to play the part of a motor-home and not a bus. In my state (California, the land of taxes), once all the seats are removed, and some of the basic "motorhome" necessities (i.e. fresh water, heat, stove) are installed, the vehicle can be re-designated as a motorhome and not a commercial vehicle, which no-longer requires a commercial license.

@@Bus_Rework Ok, thank you. I was going to do the same thing later this year on a conversion project but wasn't sure about the license requirements. Thanks again