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@@Bl4cKCuBE I never measured to be fair, but too long for this application really, when I sort out the new setup for oil pressure/temp, I will make up custom hose to fit better. But it works really well, a little too well for the road.

@@electrate1019 AN3 / also written as -3AN. Search for those and you'll find it. This is PTFE hose with steel braided outer. Purchased from competition supplies at Silverstone.

All the info is around in our discord server, flick through the video descriptions and you'll find a link to the group. Karlos has sold that car but is still very active and still happy to help with the knowledge!

We are not comparing apples with apples here by the sounds of it. The compound of the yellow stuff pads I had are clearly not the same. I followed the bed in process to the letter, and they were not capable of more than a couple of laps in a car that weighs just 1040kg. Since changing to the PBS Pro Race pads, I've had zero issues, and can do 30 mins non stop without any fade👌

Not really I just wanted the cables as straight as possible so by having the curves inside the car before it exits the firewall, it solved that issue. Fuel lines all run in the OEM locations, I just connected hard line adapters to -6AN fittings where they come into the engine bay and ran them from there.

@@captainsvlog thanks for the reply. Many options and I think i go a similar route, the 3 fuel oem route, and transition from hard line to hose where convenient in engine bay, with the 2 rear brake hard lines through firewall and run internally - I don't want to do this again!

I just jumped In as a passenger for this run so didn't have time for any fancy setup. I agree though, better angles and footcam is very cool.

@@captainsvlog Yeah, thanks for your answer! I hope that you will try to include this on your next videos. ;)

It was awesome mate, can’t wait to go again. Almost 1k views already too lad, people love the EK9 all liveried up and ripping!

Agreed, great facility! It's only a K20 in my car! I love those RPMs

Yeah, if you have to get it wrong Bedford is a forgiving track for it :) This was only my 2nd session out, and was on the first or second lap, tyres not fully warmed, but in reality I just forgot which corner I was at and went way too fast and forget where the braking point was.... Lucky really.

@@captainsvlog when your having that much fun can understand how it’s done 😆 need to see you down Dynodaze again 🤘🏻

@@dancurd3857 Yeah man, hoping to get out a bit more this year, car barely moved for all of last year...

@@captainsvlog sometimes life gets in the way but glad to see she getting the love again 💪🏻

Subframe was from an EG, not sure if that is the same as MB6? Rack is DC2 though yes.

You probably could run direct to caliper, but I wanted to use the original hanger and connection point, as I'd already bought the caliper hoses that would join to the OEM hardlines. The hose is AN3 ptfe stainless braided, and all the fittings are AN3 fittings, which is all normal kit, just plan out what you need, order the parts and away you go. I bought them from my local motorsport parts shop at silverstone circuit.

@@captainsvlog aight thanks yeah I have to order online no autoshop around my area sells those products

Horizontal outlet on master goes to the right bottom port on prop valve, the vertical outlet from master goes to the left bottom port of the prop valve. If you join our discord we can help you better. There are links in video descriptions somewhere.

Indeed, though this approach is very cost prohibitive for a good many people. The PBS pads are great on track in an OEM caliper. They're used in many race series, and I'm sure many of those guys go much quicker round a lap than us road car drivers.

Indeed it was, in a later video, we pulled the engine out and swapped the block to a good one. Problem solved, and we could see the damage to piston 4 and bore of the same. It was a rubbish situation at that point of the build , but we got there in the end :)

@@captainsvlog Lol, Rubbish... It was a Garbage situation. I look at it like. At least it will be easier. Been there done that. Hope you had a nice Christmas and have a safe and Happy New Year. BTW wasn't being a butthead I've been to England and the different words we express,. always hits me funny. I'll bre checking out your vids I'm getting ready to build a Yaris.

Not really, the description on the website is different now to what it was after a lot of people moaning, also note that I bought these pads a year before they even went into the car, and this is now an old video too. What is considered light track use? I'm not a pro racing driver and wasn't pushing the car to the limit, and the car only weighs 1100kg with me in it? Is the light track use still fitting in this instance, if so, then they suck. The title is my opinion having used the parts and after comparing them to the PBS pads, then yes, the title is accurate. Regards bating views, have you seen the viewcount LOL.

@@captainsvlog fair enough i only recently checked website lol, do you daily drive PBS?

@@sprung3008 no it's not a daily driver, though the PBS pads usable on a daily as long as your aware of the fact they need a bit of heat in them before they bite like a road pad would. Many people have used them in daily driven cars, Karlos has them in his FN2, he said they were fine 👌

12" fan, universal type. It's only a half rad so the 12" is sufficient and brings temps down in traffic when needed. Works well.

I hope I've not click baited you 🤦Probs not what you thought it was, LOL, just a test of all the software etc. It's been a while. Soon I'm gonna start doing so proper features of other builds from our discord group. Despite that, we still managed to waffle for 40 odd mins ha ha.

@@captainsvlog awsome man i can join in some time

@@BEYTEK 100% we need to make this happen dude 😎

Works an absolute treat too, solved all the issues on track, temps stable at max 95-100c over a 20 minute session on a very throttle heavy track.

On the road in my car they were really good, great initial bite, just fade when really pushed!

@@captainsvlog so they will perform just as good as oem? I always buy like akebono but its a daily driver not a race track car.

There's an element of balancing I guess, but both sides get the pressure, and the cars brakes perfectly straight so I'm not worried. I replaced the yellow stuff at the time I was doing that video for the PBS pro race that everyone seems to use and they're fantastic compared to yellowstuff on track. The yellowstuff are a really really good road pad if your not Colin McRae, but suck on track. The opposite is the PBS pads, OK on road once warmed a bit, but really good on track. Defo a better compromise for this kinda car.

No way!!! Where was that, on the A5? I did have to use the car to commute for a couple weeks recently.....

@@captainsvlog no I’m pretty certain it was you anyway but it was along Belmont tower road just outside of town, was you out about with it today aswell by any chance lol?

@@ooga-_-boogaTM that wasn't me then dude, I don't even know where Belmont tower is, and no not moved the car in a couple weeks!

@@captainsvlogoh nvm then lol must have another that’s appeared in Grantham then, but I good one with the build you’ve done exactly what I’m doing hopefully once I find a good condition ej9 when moneys better lol

Always a possibility, though I rebuilt both calipers with new pistons and seals, it's an odd one as the cars brakes perfectly straight from 130mph whilst hard on them and from 30mph with very light pressure. I haven't seen this same issue with the PBS pads either?

Gotta love Forza physics LOL, with SIM steering enabled it's largely a lot better than using the normal mode, but it does have some strange effects, mostly when you put a tyre off the track, even in a straight line it'll see you being fired off in the opposite direction with zero chance of catching the oversteer!! I've done a lot of drifting on Assetto, carx , horizon 4/5 etc BUT Motorsport 7 on SIM steering feels impossible LOL

Thanks dude, the DC2 was easily the better to drive, summat about road cars on slicks in this game that just makes them behave weird....the DC5 should have been faster, but it was far less predictable than the DC2 on street tyres, which makes no sense really. Good fun still though.

You got the knowledge with you k20 beast bet she’s a handful 😄 sounds awsome pal 👍🏻

@@dancurd3857 real cars feel better to drive, but harder to drive this fast in reality, zero risk in a game LOL

@@captainsvlog totally get that easier to push it knowing there’s no expense n repair bills don’t exist real life just costs too much wish I was sponsored to smash a car around at no expense 😂

Not enough that you can know without properly measuring, I can't feel when using them. I think it could related to how the proportioning valve works, with the whole diagonal circuit thing. As when I swapped the pads the first gently drive the passenger side disk wasn't fully cleaned off by the pads. Took a few decent stops before all the discs were looking uniform. The car physically stops straight as an arrow, and the PBS pro race pads are savage compared to these EBC ones, and they can handle the heat on track no problem.

I learned that pretty quickly. The compromise between road and track is simply to vast to have something that's perfect at both. The PBS pro race are excellent on track, but sub optimal on the roads in normal conditions, the yellow EBC are the opposite.

NPQ3 transmission, from an EP3 Civic Type R. The ratios inside are stock. It has an Mfactory helical differential upgrade and a competition clutch super lightweight flywheel. 👌

"Other people" always said braided hoses are spongy, I was likely referring to that. These brakes feel awesome to use, it's the same as used in race cars, works for me. Pedal feel and modulation ability is spot on. The pads used make a big difference to feel, but I've also never driven this car on the OEM brake lines so have point of comparison. This type of hose won't expand like the myths would make you believe. The steel braid is very tight, and the lines are PTFE inside.

No idea on "new" I found out later from EBC that they did have to change the compound due to some laws or summat, so I don't know exactly what type these were. Yes I was very meticulous with the bedding in process and they were great on road prior to track use. They were still shit on the track, I've since put PBS pads in and they were amazing on track! No fade at all. However on the roads you can feel when cold they don't bite that well. Once heated a bit they are great. The yellowstuff pads in contrast had excellent cold bite and were a joy to use just driving around the streets etc.

@@captainsvlog thanks. Appreciate the response.

They are phenomenal on Track and I haven’t even tried the blue stuff yet. I’m running the new compound on a very heavy Tesla model 3 performance dyno’d at 515bhp with braided lines. You must put in dot 5.1 fluid in. I am running Mich CUP2 tyres, I was a racing driver in my younger years and these are probably one of the most powerful set of brakes I’ve used on a road car. They are too powerful for the Cup 2s. So, I am gunna try the Nangkang AR1’s Set up is key 🔑 The brakes are Brembo 4 pot calipers on Brembo discs. However, you do have to bed them in every couple of weeks Only time I get a small amount of fade is after about 10 laps and I always get warnings that I am pushing too hard (meaning I am a potential risk for bumping others cars).

Yeah it was very busy, shame we lost so much of the session to the red flag, I didn't have the confidence to go barreling by cars either, these show track days seem to have an offy reputation as it is and I have too much time in this car to get side swiped by someone not paying full attention LOL

Not that I know mate, piss easy to do from parts though really, just -3 an fittings and lines. Hardest part is adapting the rear headlines to connect to as they need to come off the car and be flared to take the -3 couplers.

If you want more information the owner can be contacted in our discord group where chat all things Honda, pretty much everyday lol. Loads of k series experience in there. A link can be found in the video description.

@@captainsvlog thanks mate, it's appreciated. I haven't messed around tuning Hondas for a good few years. Last one I did was a full engine build and turbo conversion on my DC2-R, all done by me, fabrication the lot. So would be nice to see if I can manage a K24 conversion. It looks pretty straightforward. I just need to find someone interested in my Integra

No idea, I would consult a professional on that one. My gut feeling is, don't run it, if the valve is leaking then it needs fixing as it won't be doing the valve or the head any favours. Get the head off and send it for proper testing and repair. I had my K20-PRB cylinder head re-manufactured with new valve stem seals, and guides, the valves and valve seats all machined to suit, cost around £300 all in. Literally like new after that process.

I believe they do 👌

The answer to both is "lots" if nothing goes wrong and all the parts you get before starting work as intended, then a single weekend should be just about long enough. In terms of cost, you'll need a bottom end from a K24, and engine mount from a CRV I think. I'm sure there are other parts too, I'll get the owner to come and answer that question for you.

Legend ha ha, not quite, but agree with you, was an awesome meet, me and the lad a wicked time. Buzzing for more of the same next year. The Civic is wrapped up for the winter now, it's been a cool year for shows and stuff. Great to get the car out for people to see, so humbling to listen to people commenting on it when they see it in the flesh.