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I've considered one for this cottage I am living in if the unit ever goes out. Its just about the same size as your garage.

Wow. My just did the same thing 2018 9,500 miles. And i can’t get it to start. Thought it is the battery. Did you fix. Or how did fix it

Xonda akkord ca2 ca5 👍👍👍

Need info on the studs you used

That’s funny. I had one of those too. mine was smaller though.. Pretty sure crescent is under the Rubbermaid handle.

Sea Foam has 25% alcohol in it.

Put a 2nd ecu in it with a pump gas tune and toggle the power with a rocker switch! Poor man's flex fuel, ha!

Ca2 ca5👍

It’s crazy because there’s no check engine light on and this has happened multiple times with new battery too

Your key has a key in it I have a 2016 camero pop the door handle and use your manual key. Pull down back seats open trunk and restart battery

How you remove that fuel line to the right? Its been a real pain

Just bought one today and have the same problem

Bought 3 optimas in 2020. 2 died by 2023. Never again….made in Mexico now. They wanted cheaper, they got cheaper. I paid $400 for a blue top plus $670 for a red and yellow top(combined price). 1 covered under warranty. Blue top just barely lasted past warranty. $400 lost. Thought I was buying quality instead I was buying a fancy POS.

Finding parts becomes a scavenging hunt..hahaha! Sometimes you love the hunt sometimes it give you a headache!😂

My 2ss 6gen just turned off while I was driving. Had to throw it in neutral and park. Havnt been able to start it back up yet. I’ve replace battery and starter. Still nothing. My ecu isn’t working or anything. Any help?

Ca2 ca5👍XOHDA⚡

Let it sit on a trickle charger few days even a week . I'm recovering a 12 year old optima blue top sat years not being charged At first only had 7 CCA WITH 200 MILIOHMS INTERNAL RESISTANCE IM MAKING gains with it I've done several charge discharge cycles regained half of CCA. SOMERIMES NEED LUTTLE PATIENCE LET SLOW CHARGE RECOVER IT

I have a 2017 Camaro SS

What was the issue I have the same problem

I like the old school Accord!!!

I have a 66 Dodge with original alternator. I'm new to this myself. My alternator has a blade connector and a bolt connector. Do I run the thick wire to the blade connector or the bolt connector? Thank you.

the cv axle is above the radius rod arm bolt. how do you remove the bolt?

Just bought Accord 86 Will get alot of help from you sir. Just keep posting

Hi, is there any note regarding end play of this axel or preload? I have some play (inside-outside) at one side after bearing replacement. I'm thinking to add a differential side bearing shim to get rid of this axel end play. What do you think?

Its running lean but its not too bad considering!!

Ca 2 лучьший аккорд у меня поздняя ресталинг 87

Subscribed for the tank welding video. #Kaboom! You probably know this already, but you can fill the tank with water before you weld to make it safer. Not that you really want to fill your gas tank with water, but it's better than blowing up I guess. Nice to know ethanol won't wreck your carb.

I had this car. Vent is dash vents, hilo is dash+floor, heat is floor, vdef is floor/windshield, orange is windshield. Rec is recirculate, fresh is outside air, a/c controls power to the compressor. In the center vent, that lever operates a heater bypass valve so that if its winter and you have the heat on, you flip it to the blue arrow and the air coming out of the two center vents is not heated so you can breathe easier. It's basically full manual control of the ac. You can press heat and keep the slider to cold and get ac on your feet. The whole system gets air from the cowl on fresh and from under the dash on rec. The center level is just a bypass to the heater core so it will get whatever air you have selected, it just won't flow through the heater core.

Are you not able to put a gauge set on itto check your pressures?

When I did my big brake kit I noticed my right rear started leaking where the hard line met the soft line. Was real odd, it went all year without dripping, just took me bleeding the fronts to pop up.

I hope and pray that you be well!

I appreciate you, your channel and videos. Thank you!

Thier is a way to open the trunk with out no power but with key. it is very weird to do but their is a secret key cylinder. You have to climb into the backseat and remove them by a little clips when u remove them u will see a key slot u put ur key and turn.

you can use a key to unlock the trunk and door

Also if ur car key battery is out and u need to start it put it in the cup holder this will cause the car to send it a low energy microwave that will power up a low power chip that will talk to the car and say yes its me. but the buttons wont work but it is a emergency power up it doesnt charge or anything

the sound ur hearing is the door lock mechanism it basicly will relock or reunlock thats why u dont hear big click causes it is already in that position it is just moving the lock more to the position it is in. When the fuel pump is priming is when u press the start/stop button, logically speaking if it was priming while fueling that would be a recall it is definitely not fuel pump. The resson why u got amps when the car is unlocked is cause the car was unlocked and the computers were powering up as well.

If my ammeter is burned out and I put a heavy wire from alternator to battery as you have done do I disconnect the old wires to the ammeter, or just leave them in place.Thanks.

im mixing it bc i have a clogged catalytic converter

I had same car back in 1990 when it was practically new. Sorry to say the descriptions of the controls are way way way way off

Hey I was wondering if you’ve got any advice on working on your timing belt for these 3g accords, mines got a leak coming from it (just got the car) wanted to know if there was a good way to get to the timing belt cover and replace that gasket

I have a similar problem but it just started. Been chasing hard start or hard running issues for a year or so now, and suspected it might be the fuel pump relay. Upon a bit of testing, i am not hearing any click from the relay at all, and there is no fuel pump sound when the key is clicked over. I don't know if its the relay that's been causing the issues or if its been the fuel pump on its way out, and I want to swap relays with a good one to eliminate this as the issue entirely, or part of the issue. I'm finding fuel pump relays' online with the model number RZ0088 saying they're interchangeable with the stock number, which is RZ0028. Can you confirm this? Id like to just buy and test from amazon, but they only have the RZ0088 and i don't wanna fry somethin. They're both 12v and look identical, just named differently. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

So your amp gauge don't work anymore?

Suprised it still works!

factory specs is 13.8 volts to 14.8 volts

I got 2.6 and 2.7 front from just lowering with coil overs. My rear is at 1.5 and 1.4. Caster is 3.3 both sides. If one cranks the radius rods for more caster, it puts a bind on the arms. Don't want to do that! I autocross, and I feel it works very well. No need for more camber, but I like the TRW deals. I had no idea they existed! I wish you could post a link for those TRW parts!

339,+++ and all is fine!

Do a video explaining the story on how you got the Accord and how long you've had it, and the cars you've had beforehand.

I found some of the trw offset mount things you showed in the last vid on ebay, I paid like $45 for a set or something. Yes, I did need more than 2 degrees, when you turn that wheel hard you will contact the whole tire, on my track tires it was rolling over the sidewall just a hair. If I add more camber I can decrease the tire pressure for more grip, the less tire pressure the more the tire will flatten out and make contact, but it also causes it to roll over more on the sidewall. For street I don't really care what the camber is, the insides of the tires don't wear any faster, it just skews it all to the inside, so I might have to flip the tires in one of the rotations. Totally different setups though, Im pretty low and a masochist that sets his daily up for the track

My experience with the prelude arms is they add a bit of positive caster and they don't get you a whole lot of camber to begin with, degree, maybe degree and a half depending on ride height and how straight your frame is. I wanted about 3 degrees front, I had to punch out the holes and Im still way short on the driver side where all the weight is. The front seems to have some positive camber gain with suspension compression, even with my shortened upper arm. Lowered cars probably need extended lower ball joints. Wondering if the LCA subframe mount can be slotted and moved out too. I probably need to get those off center UCA mounts too Ill get a real good idea of what camber I need this sunday, doing an autocross, but the best way to know is the wear marks on the tire. If there is any wear where the tread rounds the shoulder it needs more camber. Chalk is a good way to see exactly where the contact patch is in a corner if you cant see wear marks or youre doing repeated tests. It will depend on the tires youre running too, how much pressure, and sidewall stiffness And for caster, I have like 5 or 6 degrees, and thats also a big factor for how much camber you need, its probably the biggest factor actually. Since the max amount of camber you may ever get out of the front is around 3 degrees, a lot of caster might be a benefit. Fair warning though, I think this suspension geometry experiences a lot of jacking force, so road forces will translate into the wheel... might not be as bad with the super light factory power steering, but I dont have that

I love this dumb platform thing lol. Clearly a design failure, but it does make a nice lookout point.