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Suona bene, pulito! Sinceramente non lo sto usando però perchè qualche settimana dopo ho trovato buttato un Denon PMA-495R che aveva solo bisogna di un pò di pulizia. Il Denon ha pre integrato quindi ha un pò più di gestibilità. In ogni case un bell'ampli!

Si , quello che non mi piace di questi "midi" è che costringevano per forza ad usarli tutti assieme . Perfino il CD , che sembra scorrelato da tutto il resto , se non si collega il componente non parte nulla . Il vantaggio però è che ci sono pochi fili perché tutti i segnali e anche le alimentazioni passano sul flat cable

Quali cavi prendi precisamente per farlo accendere e per creare il line in e il potenziometro? Si potrebbe anche perfezionare mettendoci un pre davanti e mettendo dei jack RCA anziché quello da 3,5

@@pasromano75 Si trova online uno schema. Da li puoi leggere i nomi e il pinout. Sig.GND e Sig.GND puoi metterli insieme a massa. R per aux in destro, L per aux in sinistro. P.CONT è il pin da mettere in GND per far accendere l'amplificatore. Puoi usare R, L e SigGND con un 10k dual slide pot (un potenziometro doppio, stereo), meglio logaritmico, ma anche un lineare che costa meno va benissimo prima del jack RCA. Ho messo il 3.5 per evitare di bucare troppo il case. Anche perchè l'idea era di utilizzarlo bluetooth. (Nota che se vuoi utilizzarlo bluetooth con i chip basso costo cinesi, e una alimentazione presa dall'amplificatore, devi portare l'alimentazione a 5V, e poi utilizzare un DC/DC converter altrimenti porti dentro un sacco di rumore)

Buongiorno, non saprei, io ho solo questo vorwerk non conosce le altre specifiche.

Thanks

Thank you .About your question, I don't know cause this project is for a friend of mine, so I don't have a Roland SP-404 :)

You can do this. It maybe something simple. There are many forums with people that can help you. Only thing is to be safe, don't touch the high voltage board. On low voltage you can almost do everything without risk for yourself.

Hello, take a look here learn.microsoft.com/en-us/ef/core/miscellaneous/connection-strings or you can take a look at the DentneD.exe.config file in the release of the software. There you can find a template for a connection on a SQL server that has username and password enabled (learn.microsoft.com/en-us/sql/relational-databases/security/authentication-access/create-a-login?view=sql-server-ver16) you just have to replace DATASOURCE, INITIALCATALOG, USERID and PASSWORD according to your server settings. Also this link can help: github.com/davidegironi/dentned/issues/7#issue-693503265

Ciao, è tutto molto artigianale e dipende dall'hardware che hai a disposizione. Quello che ti posso dire è che la calibrazione per il taglio è molto complessa. Va bene se vuoi fare tagli grossolani, ma se devi fare cose precise meglio un plotter professionale. Comunque sia è un bel progetto per aumentare le proprie conoscenze.

It was the supply rails caps of the AD737.

Buongiorno, che io sappia ne esiste un solo tipo di IGP10N60T.

I understand your disbelief. My mistake I didn't show it powered on. It works, if hadn't worked I wouldn't have posted a video like that. CZcams is not my business, I post here things that works to me. I'm not here to make click. Please consider at first stage I've changed only one side. Then I've decide to remove both side. Also I've changed the thermal paste below the CPU cover.

Great! Have fun

Hello. By datasheet is connected to Vs-.

Thanks!

Hello, I'm sorry but I have no time for this. By the way it will not be difficult, the manual has page about this.

@@davidegironi Ok, I will keep trying. I got the coin mech brand new 2022, but every time I flip the s2-9 switch back to ON, it double clicks saying it didn't work. I am holding the mech in my hand do you think maybe that is not stable enough to teach it? I want my boxer machine to take tokens haha

The speaker are 5 inch octagonal AD-5060/M8 midrange from Philips, tweeter are from a 90's stereo from Pioneer. The Speaker case has not sticker, so I'm not able to tell you the model.

No, It could be a nice feature

Hello and thanks. I've checked the description link. Found no problem in it. Just I want to remind you have to disable your adblocker to allow download in sourceforge.

Hello, you can download it following the link in the video description

i have gone there but only found pcb schematic only

in advance I thank you very much sir

@@SSCchannel Check the two link in the first part of the blog post

@@davidegironi thanks i have found it

Hello. I don't have the diagram. I'm using the main IC datasheet for Fortune Semiconductor FS9922 you can find searching online

Hello. Disable yes, but not with this circuit, there are additional input to drive. Detect errors i don't remember if there are output error signals from the board, you have to take a look at the manual.

Hello Adrian, have you try on R? the r-fiddle website has some problem sometimes.

@@davidegironi I try but there were a lot of errors when running the open source code.

@@adriansmall9828 It may be a different version of R. Have you got some debug message? You can start there by solving issues.

Another basic thing from "How to use this script:". Have you set your points data? Otherwise it will not work.

@@davidegironi I have collected my datapoints from the Web Plot Digitizer

Hello, I'm sorry but I don't have the schematic of this board and I don't know how to tune. If i remeber well, there are a few trimmer inside, you can mark the actual position of each one, then try.

:)

Hello, the electone from yamaha is a different beast that this one. You should investigate, I will start from the power supply... but you have to look at it.

C.est les fils électriques qui son mal souder. Speakert out. Change daut parleur. .le son qui fait bip bip microproseceur

Thank you!

It will work, but you should have a bigger tunging holder (I mean the yellow plastic piece on top of my winder).

Ciao. Io ho comprato una coppia di altoparlanti 40mm 4Ohm 5W full range di AIYIMA da AliExpress ma anche di qualsiasi altra marca va bene.

@@davidegironi ok grazie della disponibilità 🔝

Hello, I have not try, but is should work as long as it's a ESP8266

Thanks! Don't know, you have to check the mk2 manual for the MIDI command table and compare with the one I've use. I don't think there will be much difference, but before starting a new project better check.

But be careful :)

Probably code needs to be updated for the latest framework, but I can confirm you a device I've with this code still works.

@@davidegironi ok works perfectly with ESP8266 2.3.0, Thanks! Is there any option to add password for the page? So people in my network cannot enter the settings page without entering password

@@MrRoniEv Yes, it will be possible, but there's a few lines of code to be written. I don't have this feature to share unluckily.

@@davidegironi I changed the "/settings" parameter to another name, and removed the "Settings" button on homepage Good enough :)

@@MrRoniEv Bravo, that's smart and does the trick!

Thank you. You can find it in the blogpost article, find the link above in the description.

Can I use a power transformer with 220v at main it's secondary has a 18-0-18v.with 3 amperage rating? How many ampere in the diode bridge if I use that transformer?

@@martianbridge Hello, look at my answer at the blogpost page.

It's AC

Thank you! I haven't got one. My issue was relatively simple, I've to scope around and do some basic reverse engineering to solve it.

The first behaviour seems the YLOD one. Usually if you plug your PS off from the grid, then plug in again, you should get the YLOD again. I suggest you a reflow, It may help :)

@@davidegironi I tried reflowing it but no luck, maybe some caps I installed got shorted

It's probably the RSX. The early models of the PS3 have defective RSX chips. Replacing the capacitors tend to work for about a week but eventuality, the RSX will die. This is due to the die soldier balls detaching from the substrate. They cannot be reflowed. Currently, the only seemingly permanent solution is to soldier the 40nm RSX and modifying some components on the motherboard.

Thanks for sharing your experience. I've try also other methods, but this is to me the best!

you win! :) My Ender 3 was running in background

Hello. Yes it works. At first stage I've changed only one side. But I've 20 pcs so I decide to remove both side. Then I also changed the thermal paste below the CPU cover, but I've not made a video about this.

@@davidegironi hi there, I also just have 20pcs on hand that's why I haven't changed all 😭 I only have changed the 4 tokins infront and only one at the back. And it's still YLOD. I ordered more from China last night. Btw I replaced the thermal paste on the RSX chips (I didn't reball it yet because first of all, idk how to reball hahahah and secondly, I ordered an FT232RL and it's coming tomorrow to specifically diagnose what really is the problem of my ps3, if it's just the tokins or the RSX needs a reball. For now, the ps3 is now working but I guess it worked because I heated the RSX and GPU (I know that it will just be temporary hahahah)

@@snow4562 I also have not reballed it, i've changed the thermal paste under the RSX cover, and over the cover of course. And I've done a reflow of both the CPU without the cover on. It works buy honestly I'm not a big player, my game is just the repair of things :) I've another PS3 slim fixed, and my 1 hour of game per month I use the slim. But I've powered the fat last month, and up to that day it works.

@@davidegironi oh that's what I did too, I just replaced the thermal paste under the cover of RSX and I guess it's the hot air that made the ps3 work again but yeah we both know that that's just a TEMPORARY FIX 💔 btw when I turned on the ps3, it gets so hot even though I haven't placed the top cover back in yet. What else do you think could possibly cause it to get so hot? I used MX-5 thermal paste.

@@davidegironi I'm also not a hard gamer nor a technician, I just love trying to fix things hahahah

Thank you. I'm a software eng. Not my primary work bus I also do embedded on my job