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Might be something to try. I'm not sure how much difference that would make, since the black primer already had white highlights sprayed on it. The white highlights were pretty bright and I didn't notice that they showed through that well.

@@JollyLark Trust me it works very well with contrast style paints. I always prime black, then airbrush Golden High flow Acrylic Titan buff from the sides and top, then dry brush with Ammo Mig Dry Brush Paint White. It always works really well.

@@funTimesInTheSun For sure! I've done something similar in a number of my videos. I think the best example is the Ogre Pirate, which was white drybrushed over a blue primer (czcams.com/video/uCEyyw5TqkY/video.html). Specifically, these Army Painter Speedpaint Metallics have very solid coverage. With them, I didn't see a tonal difference when they went over white or black. Which isn't a bad thing, but they didn't really behave like a contrast paint.

@@JollyLark I have them as well, but haven't actually use them yet, I think they are just supposed to pool in the cracks and not be thick on the raised edges, wo white edges would be important.

I would like to do the other City States giants. I'd like to try to give one of them the same clockwork treatment as the Minotaurs. Maybe try a burning skin effect for the Promethean.

@@JollyLark I'd love to see that!

@@funTimesInTheSun Yeah, I have thought about that. I have an airbrush that I use regularly, but since so many people don't have one, it has seemed better to keep tutorial videos focused on hand painting (also, in full honesty, I am not as good with airbrush).

@@JollyLark You'd be supposed at how many people have air brushes, especially those that get these massive models. I personally want to get better with my airbrush and this model seems like the perfect model to use an airbrush on.

@@gemyniraptor8626 That's great! Always happy to hear that a video is useful. If you check out some past videos, there is one about painting a Tontorr that includes another way of painting the Wadhrun stone icons, in a jade-like finish.

Yeah, I think this could work well for buildings too.

Idiot! 😅😅😅

Lol

Thanks! It's a pretty quick way to get some texture on a large area.

Nice - I'd be curious to see how it turns out. If you post photos online, let me know!

I didn't know exactly where I was going either! This is the first time I've tried this. But I knew I wanted something that was closer to granite than marble and it seemed like a reasonable way to try to do it.

Thanks, I appreciate it!

That would be cool. Start with a mid-brown, then layer on a Khaki and Bone - that'd probably look sharp.

I think that was just an extra bit from the Treelord or Dryads kit; something left over from after building the army (sorry I can't be more specific). It's a super fun army to paint!

Citadel's Gorthor Brown would probably be close. Pro-Acryl's Light Umber would also work. But the base color doesn't matter so much - any sort of medium brown would probably be fine. Army Painter has a "Leather Brown" spray that looks good too (but I haven't tried their sprays). Once you add washes and drybrushing, it shouldn't make a big difference.

@@JollyLark thank you so much for taking the time to reply!!

Go for it!

Thanks for asking - I realized I hadn't included a photo of the big drake, but just posted one on my IG: instagram.com/p/C9CyMBlsm7Q/

@JollyLark just saw it I love that teal color so much.

Great, I'm glad it was useful! If you have any questions, I'm always happy to help.

@@zm0rc I did a video on the bases too: czcams.com/video/NUEwjJ0tD2U/video.htmlsi=HNUuKDDNNHiOO_IN Hopefully that helps!

Thanks - I try to make the type of videos I like watching! One everything's I like about the large Conquest models is that they don't have a proportionate increase in amount of detail, so they don't take quite so long as large models from some other manufacturers.

For mine, I used a bright contrast blue to make them pop a bit. That's the most common question from this video - I really need to do a follow-up showing bugs! I also think the Turbodork colorshift paints could be fun to try for insect carapaces. I've played around with some of their reformulated paints and they go on nicely with a brush.

Nice. Will try a metallic with contrast(the talassar blue pops a lot over metal) or the army painter color shifts. But popping color won't do a lot of contrast with the pretty dark minis? Still, love your scheme, seems way easier than mine...😊 Thank you for the answer, gotta subscribe now^^

@@keyradin I'm always curious to see how folks' minis turn out - if DM me or tag me on instagram, I'd love to see the results!

​​@@JollyLarkit won't be exactly the same, will try with paint I have at home (ak and VGC) but when finished, will tag you on instagram ;)

Great! I'm glad it was useful!

I haven't had an issue with it. It might help that I usually transport them on movement trays, as a unit. So I'm not handling the surface much. Just make sure to use a primer on the plastic, which will help all the paint (including the crackle effect) to stick better.

I used a Bambu P1S, PLA+, .08 layer height. Hopefully that helps!

If you drybrush them along with all the wood, you end up with a pretty good, pre-shaded base to add some contrast paint to. They're mostly Aethermatic Blue Contrast, with a bit of Talassar Blue in the cracks to darken them up a bit.

@@JollyLark Awesome. Thank you very much, it’s appreciated. Would you do something similar for the giant Beatles they ride as well?

I have a lot of rough, junky brushes that I'll use for basecoats, drybrushing, washes, etc. For when I went to be more careful, I like Rosemary & Co.'s "Pointed Pure Sable" in a size 4. They're big enough to hold a decent amount of paint and pointed enough to paint small details. Their "Smooshing" brush is also great for large areas of drybrushing. Hopefully that helps!

Excellent! Let me know what you think when you have a chance to play around with them!

There is a fine texture on the base, before painting. The Jolly Lark fine basing textures works well, or one of the fine pastes, like Vallejo or Pro-Acryl makes.

Thank you very much!

Thanks! If you have photos after you finish yours, tag me on IG with them - I'm always interested to see how people's projects turn out.

Thanks! That's always the goal with my videos!

Thanks so much!

Not a silly question at all! The bright ivory works well through an airbrush, with a little thinning. It's been a minute since I made this video, but I probably used the Vallejo white air paint that I have a big bottle of. It's my go-to, since it's pre-mixed (Here's an amazon link: amzn.to/4aV3Keu). But really and decent white should work.

@@JollyLark Yeah I took a closer look at the models I painted with a brush now, and that bright ivory will likely not be distinguishable from the Titanium White I usually use with my airbrush once the green is on. Thanks mate!

@@pederbergenwall Yeah, exactly! As long as it is something bright, it's probably fine.

I picked up a couple more colors to try for scenery: some browns, some rusty reds. They seem like they'd be great for that.

@@JollyLark I really like their greens as well for forest stuff, and their light blues work great for snow colors.